Since getting a new haircut with bangs, I have become a finger-twirling, gel-loving hot mess of a curly girl.

A couple of weekends ago, I traveled to Atlanta for my routine Foundation cut done by master curly hair artist and owner of Southern Curl, Robin Sjoblom.

Per usual, her hands performed pure magic on my curls.

Of course, I flew back home to Texas in high hopes of replicating the super-defined formation of my curly bangs. Admittedly, I am having a bit of a struggle. I realized that with a new cut and style come a refined wash day routine to maximize a new look on my high density, high porosity type 3c curls. 

Revisiting my curl-defining routine from the ‘big chop’ days

In between trims, I normally like to keep my routine relatively simple and straight to the point. During my early transitioning, pre-big chop days, I cared more about curl definition, clumping, frizz-smoothing, and elongation. These days, not so much. As my product stash has changed over the years due to a changing routine, paired with a conscious focus on ingredients and their intentions, I find myself revisiting some Holy Grail brands and NaturallyCurly community faves in an effort to maximize my new shape.

Here’s how I do it–keep in mind that I am still experimenting with this routine, so I am definitely open to suggestions. 

How my styling routine has changed

Now, I have included a gel within my styling routine. I apply it in the shower while my hair is soaking wet, immediately after shampooing or co-washing, then applying a moisturizing leave-in from root to tip (in quadrants”>.

I scoop out a quarter-sized amount of gel and style setter into my palm, rubbing both palms together and smoothing over my halo.

Then, I find my bangs and gently separate them from the rest of my hair with my pointer finger, finger twirling each section with a tiny bit of gel underneath the running shower head.  Before exiting the shower, I grab my super absorbent microfiber towel, turn my head over, and plop each quadrant of curls.

If I am running low on time, I diffuse on a low setting, focusing on small sections of hair at a time. Since this is when my curls start clumping, it is also the time I like to position my bangs so that they appear even in length across my forehead.

I spend a few minutes fluffing my roots to even out the shape around my entire head with a tiny bit of oil on the pads of my fingers.

My bangs are still not quite cooperating with me like they did with Robin.

Days after my appointment with Robin, my curly bangs stayed in place much more cooperatively than they do when I style them. Stay tuned for her detailed styling routine of my 3c hair.

What’s your secret to styling curly bangs?

Bangs acne is a real thing–see how StyleFeen prevents that. 

Follow me on Instagram @DevriVelazquez

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In order for a protective style to live up to its name, both the natural hair and scalp need to be taken care of equally.

Are you considering installing a protective style like Marley twists or box braids? Everyone likes to rock these styles for various reasons. I like to take advantage of the opportunity to play with color without using chemicals, experiment with length while retaining my actual length in between trims and giving my strands a break from the atmosphere and frequent co-washing.

In order for a style to be considered truly protective, there are some important rules of thumb to follow before, during and after the process. 

Before installing my twists

My scalp needs a blank canvas to work with. This is the order of my steps and products I currently use.

• Pre-poo: Deity America Nourishing Scalp Serum uses 100% natural ingredients to prep my scalp for the loss of sebum when I clarify. Although it is distributed all over my roots, the main areas of focus are along my hairline and the nape of my neck.
• Shampoo: For a deep scrub that will not irritate my canvas, I turn to a phthalate-free bar like Dyevercity Indulge Your Body (caramel apple scent”> because it works well for clarifying sensitive scalps. I gently massage in a circular motion with each finger simultaneously–no scratching.

While rocking my twists

In an ideal world, going through the lengthy–and sometimes painful–process of installing protective style twists would allow your hair and scalp to breathe fully for a couple of months at a time. However, for a lazy natural like myself, prolonging the lifetime of a style might seem nearly impossible. That is why I used to care about neatness but now don’t mind if my twists start channeling my inner Lisa Bonet.

Low manipulation styles are always a good idea. While my hair is already protected in twists, I don’t want to cause too much tension on my scalp or irritate it. It simply depends on my mood, but most of the time a half-up bun or a loose three-strand ponytail will suffice.

Throughout each day, I try not to touch my twists for three reasons:

• I don’t want to transfer oils and dirt to my real hair (which will force me to co-wash sooner”>
• I don’t want to encourage unraveling
• I don’t want my real hair to frizz up

If a twist does unravel, I use a whipped butter-gel to provide a soft hold that lasts.

At night, I wrap my edges with a satin headwrap and stuff the length of my twists into a satin bonnet. To maintain a more polished appearance for my protective style, the next morning I might apply an edge tamer to the baby hairs–but otherwise, I prefer to let them run free.

After taking down my twists

Depending on how long I wore my protective style twists, it may be time for a protein treatment restore the strength of my strands. This is how my wash day goes the day I take them down:

• protein treatment: OmniPotent Duosity Double Whipped Treatment delivers quick results and the viscosity is perfect–not too thick, not too runny.
• conditioning cleanser: SheaMoisture African Water Mint & Ginger Detox & Refresh Hair & Scalp Conditioner is everything that it sounds like–a refreshing cleanser that leaves my scalp with a tingly clean.
• leave-in: My curls need root-to-tip moisture, so I use Camille Rose Naturals Coconut Water Leave-In Treatment

Want more protective style content? 

Need more protective style and color inspiration? Follow me on Instagram @DevriVelazquez

Like what you see? For more articles like this, sign up for our newsletter! 

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It’s a bizarre thing to say, but being overweight when I was younger probably saved my life.

My name is Ti, I live in Los Angeles and I’m a writer/producer in television and now also in digital.

My mother straight up refused to perm my hair when I was a child so I’ve actually kept my kinks going since birth.

I was raised in a household where there was never any notion that there was something wrong with my hair the way it naturally grows out of my head. Even once I got older and my mom was no longer looking after my hair, the thought of getting a relaxer never crossed my mind. I was ridiculed in school by some of the other girls for my hair, so it’s been kind of surreal to see how much the tide has changed in recent years!

I reached my peak of awkwardness in junior high/high school (though, my awkwardness as an adult today is still considerable”>. Along with that awkwardness came some serious weight gain.

My initial interest in nutrition and exercise came purely out of a desperation to lose weight.

Going as far back as high school, I have kept food journals and workout logs. I didn’t know much about eating properly in the beginning, so what I had once thought was healthfully eating actually makes me cringe today! At that age, I used workout DVDs and videos for exercise. In high school, I’d lose weight typically using extreme measures like crash diets, fall off the wagon, and then regain the weight. My weight still fluctuates now but my maturity, education and experience ensure that it is to a far less extreme extent.

I reached my heaviest weight during my freshman year of college. Shocked by the number on the scale, I lost around thirty pounds in the summer between my freshman and sophomore year. I then continued to lose weight once I returned to school for my sophomore, junior and senior year. Since then, I’ve more or less managed to maintain a weight loss of over forty pounds–I say “more or less” because my weight remains a weighty issue and it requires constant vigilance.

It has taken many years to get to where I am.

While I still have goals to attain with my health and fitness, I feel more in control of my fitness destiny more than I ever have. I’ve got a few years under my belt maintaining my smaller size now, and I approach my fitness each year with the philosophy that being in the best shape of my life is still ahead of me. That always encourages me to stay on the right path!

This journey has been terrifying and wonderful. I’ve loved finding a community of people from all different walks of life, and having a way for us all to walk together on our journeys. More than anything, leading fitness challenges on my blog and YouTube channel has kept me accountable. When eyes are on you, it really keeps you honest and makes it easier to stick to a workout schedule and clean eating.

The first tip is the simplest but possibly the most difficult.

After all, simple ≠ easy. Remove added sugars from your diet. There are all sorts of conflicting data on whether grains, dairy, animal protein is good for you, etc. but there isn’t an argument that can be made that added sugars are healthful. Naturally occurring sugars in fruits are okay but I recommend avoiding foods and beverages that have any sugar added to them. I also recommend staying away from fruit juices because they are extremely high in sugar and calories without offering any of the fiber that you’d get from eating the fruit itself. Always read labels because you would be shocked by some of the things that have sugar added to them.

This journey has been terrifying and wonderful. I’ve loved finding a community of people from all different walks of life, and having a way for us all to walk together on our journeys.

Second, set attainable and specific goals. General goals like “I want to tone up” or “I want to lose weight” don’t really empower you to set a plan to take specific action. I mean, we all want to lose weight! One way I qualify a goal is with a pair of jeans in my closet that are one or two sizes too small for me. I’ve set a goal to fit into those jeans by this October. I also like to set task-specific goals, when it comes to my fitness. Rather than just saying “I want to be more fit,” or “I want to get stronger,” I’ve set a goal to complete 3 strict pull-ups by the end of the year.

I’m currently leading a fitness challenge on my blog and YouTube channel called #SnatchedForSummer.

I’m really on point with my eating and exercise, right now. Part of that has included counting my calories, which I’ve been doing for about 5 weeks. I do eat animal protein, but I make a point to be mindful of eating high quality meats and eggs–grass-fed beef, wild-caught fish, pasture-raised eggs–while still ensuring that my overall diet is plant-based and not meat-focused. In this video, I go through all of my meals from breakfast to dinner:

For exercise, I tend to go for metabolic conditioning, or metcon. I started doing CrossFit in 2010, which is when I was first introduced to metcon.  I love this style of workouts because they’re time efficient.  (Translation: I don’t have to work out very long to torch a lot of calories!”> Ideally, I’d knock out either a kettlebell or CrossFit-style workout first thing in the morning, then have some breakfast to replenish my body and carry on with my day. I’m not a morning person so there are many days where I have to get my sweat on at night instead!

It’s a bizarre thing to say, but being overweight when I was younger probably saved my life.

If I were a naturally thin person, I would never have had the impetus to learn about nutrition, to read about food production, to learn about exercise science, to work out. Caring about what goes into my body, and what I’m able to do with my body has affected every aspect of my life in a positive way. If I didn’t care about maintaining my health, I probably would’ve never learned how many cool things I can do (like deadlift 270 pounds!”>.

Feeling inspired?

Keep up with Ti on her blog, nappyheadedjojoba.com and on YouTube at youtube.com/nappyheadedjojoba where she uploads regularly.

When Twisted Sista asked me to try their Curl Activator Crème, I leapt at the opportunity! Even though I wear the same ol’ hairstyle everyday, I like to try new products on my medium texture 4C curls whenever I can.

In addition to sharing how well my beloved 4Cs responded to this curl crème with you, I wanted to offer curlies with looser patterns a different perspective. That’s why I enlisted the help of fellow Naturally Curly Editor, Cristina Cleveland. I wanted to learn if we would both reap benefits when using the same curl crème!

Keep reading to learn how my 4C TWA and Cristina’s 2C waves responded to the curl crème in this Twisted Sista sponsored post.

Gerilyn’s 4C Teeny Weeny (yet Mighty!”> Afro

On any given day, at any hour, my curls thirst for moisture. It’s not for lack of care; it’s simply their nature. Finding the right combination of daily moisturizing oils for them can be challenging, which is why I think the Twisted Sista Curl Activator Crème was a WINNER for my TWA.

Here’s why:

It’s super easy to apply to a freshly washed and sectioned out TWA!

If you’re not into cocktailing leave-ins with hair oils, that’s okay. The curl crème is full of coconut and avocado and almond oils that are perfect for coils that need all-day hydration. Even though I used only the curl crème during my wash-and-go day, I found that my curls didn’t lose moisture, felt super soft for hours, and didn’t fall victim to the halo effect at the end of my work day. This curl crème will also respond well to a midday TWA water spritzing break when you want to refresh your curls.

Although I tend to overpour and apply moisturizing products to combat dry curls, I really like that Twisted Sista encourages tightly coiled up curlies like me to use its product liberally.

So, yes – I definitely recommend that 4C curlies use the Twisted Sista Curl Activator Crème in conjunction with your current TWA styling and hair care maintenance routine. I think it’s a definite win for those of us looking for a wash-and-go moisturizer that not only douses curls in natural oils, but also knocks frizz out while enhancing those individual coils.

Even though I’m definitely going to keep this crème in my repertoire, I wondered… will Cristina have a similar liking for it?

Keep reading to find out!

Cristina’s Too Cute 2C Bob

Being the rockstar that she is, Cristina took time out of her regular styling and maintenance routine to sample the curl crème in order to give me and our entire community feedback about it.

Let’s see what she has to say about it!

Like many curlies out there, Cristina is adventurous when it comes to adopting a new product that may not necessarily be designed for her specific pattern or texture.

“I realize that my hair doesn’t look like the curly girl’s on the bottle, but many of my Holy Grails are shared by my Type 3 and Type 4 colleagues here at NaturallyCurly so I never let that stop me from discovering a new product,” Cristina said.

“With the Twisted Sista Curl Activator Crème I found that my hair had very bouncy curls and waves with just enough hold,” Cristina told me, “When I touch my hair it doesn’t feel like it has any product in it at all, but the light hold meant that I could refresh my hair on days 2 and 3 with a water spray bottle and a little more product.”

As mentioned, I love using liberal amounts of product in my 4C TWA. That’s not the case in this instance with Cristina’s 2C curls.

“For my style and hair type, I like to use a minimal amount-just four pea sized dollops-for best results. Using small amounts each time means I don’t have to worry about my hair being weighed down throughout the week,” she said, “I really believe that with the right technique and the correct amount of product, you can find a go-to product even in a formula that wasn’t specifically made for your hair type.”

Takeaway Tips from Cristina’s 2C Styling Routine that All Curlies Can Use

Cristina was kind enough to walk me through her styling routine, which is an eye-opener since I style my curls in a similar way although our curl patterns are completely different.

“On freshly cleansed and detangled hair, I applied a light spray leave-in conditioner and blotted my hair dry with my microfiber towel, then allowed it to start to partially dry,” she told me, “I find that when I apply styling product to soaking wet hair my hair winds up looking flat. Once my hair started to dry, I took two pea-sized amounts of the Twisted Sista in the palm of my hand and rubbed my hands together so that they were evenly coated.”

“Then I flipped my head upside down and scrunched the product through the right side of my hair. I did the same with the left side. Applying in sections helps me make sure I haven’t missed any spots,” she said, “Then I flip my head back upright, and at this point I may have a little bit of frizz, but I don’t worry too much about frizz. Once my hair is 100% air dried that normally sorts itself out.”

From 2A to 4C, Your Curls Will Benefit from Twisted Sista Curl Activator Crème

As you can see, this curl crème is as versatile as the curls that love to soak it in! It’s sulfate-free, paraben-free, phthalates-free and contains coconut, avocado, and almond oils. It’s got everything you’ve been wanting in one product! No matter your curl pattern or texture, you curls are going to get a boost of nourishment and moisture. Lucky, lucky you!

As ever, stay curly!

After years of waiting, you’ve finally committed to your curls. Congratulations! Now that you’re ready to take these brave steps in the direction of your natural hair dreams, you’ll need the right moisturizing and protective products for daily care and styling. You’ll also need to know how to use the products once their in your hands. That’s exactly what the following infographic, sponsored by Luster Pink, will show you! Formulated with coconut oil and shea butter to give your hair the strength and protection it needs, this is the one line you’ll absolutely want in your hair care and styling repertoire.

Step 1 – Shampoo and Condition Curls

Curl Fact: Healthy hair is sexy! Slay the competition with knockout curls that are gently cleansed, moisturized, and detangled with Pink® Shea Butter Coconut Oil Shampoo. Silky soft curls will benefit more when the paraben-free Pink® Shea Butter Coconut Oil Moisturizing and Silkening Conditioner is used to protect hair from dryness and breakage.

Care Tip: Always use gentle cleansing and conditioning hair care products on natural, relaxed, color-treated and texlaxed hair to bring out hair’s natural brilliance.

Step 2 – Nourish and Moisturize Curls

Curl Fact: Healthy hair is visibly lustrous. Whether in its natural state, wrapped, heat-styled, color treated, or anything in between, hair will absorb the nourishing properties of Pink® Classic Light Oil Moisturizer Hair Lotion. Penetrating down to the hair cuticle, this lightweight lotion will strengthen strands with Aloe Vera and Jojoba Oil while adding luster.

Care Tip: For added nourishment, apply Pink® Apricot Oil or Jojoba & Grapeseed Oil to curls. Both oils are rich in Vitamin E, naturally-derived moisturizers, and formulated for easy absorption and a non-greasy shine. Also, these oils are gentle on your scalp and skin. 

Step 3 – Glosser and Edge Control

Curl Fact: Healthy hair can’t be denied. When curls are defined, shiny and well cared for, the world notices. Pink® Glosser delivers all of this and much more with its botanical blend of ten natural ingredients. From strengthening Kola Nut to growth-promoting Lemongrass and Wheat Germ Oil, and color-protecting Henna Extract to calming Chamomile. This lightweight Glosser will enrich your curls and your style.

Care Tip: Flyaway edges need to be tamed during the last step of your styling routine. Hold them down all day long with Shea Butter Coconut Oil Edge Smoother Gel. Enriched with Shea Butter, Argon, Castor and Coconut Oils, this lightweight smoothing gel lays down natural, relaxed and color treated hair edges without damaging or breaking fine hairs.

It’s gift giving season–Nikki and Evelyn are at it yet again! Here’s a homemade coco-mint butter. Because nothing beats being ash-free from head to toe in your family Christmas photo. “It smells like New York Peppermint Patty goodness,” Evelyn describes. 

What you will need

• 4 ounces of cocoa butter
• 2 tablespoons of coconut oil
• 1 tablespoon of jojoba oil
• 5-10 drops of vanilla essential oil
• 5-10 drops of spearmint essential oil 
• 1 glass container to store the butter in
• Ninja Mini Blender 

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1. Add the cocoa butter, coconut oil, and jojoba oil into the blender until it is a thin, milky consistency.

2.  Add the vanilla and spearmint essential oils, and continue blending until it is silky smooth. Add more than 10 drops for a stronger scent.

The active ingredients

Spearmint essential oil contains Mint L-carvone and limonene, which are effective in preventing hair loss and strengthening the current hair strands and follicles. According to researchers from John Wiley & Sons, the flavonoids and menthol in spearmint actively promote the prevention of hirsutism (excessive hair growth”>.

Coconut oil is a great natural moisturizer, with fatty acids that provide hair with a silky, luscious feeling and look. It also lessens the visibility of a flaky scalp that tends to occur in the colder months with drier climates. This ingredient will also keep frizz and flyaways at bay by blocking moisture from entering and swelling the hair shaft.

Jojoba oil is similar in composition to natural scalp sebum, making it great for balancing the pH in hair that is unusually dry. It also provides a protective film over skin and hair shafts to lock moisture in for long periods of time. It can be applied directly to the scalp to trigger cells for regular, healthy and thicker hair growth.

Vanilla essential oil is an ideal temporary split end mender; it also works well to repair brittle hair and improving the feeling of damaged or over-processed hair that has been affected by environmental or styling variables. It penetrates deeply into the hair and skin shafts to provide an intense silky to the touch moisturization.

Make it a gift!

Coco-mint butter makes a great gift for those enjoy having moisturized hair and body with a festive flair, so now is the time to get creative! Evelyn and Nikki suggested decorating their glass jars with ribbon, bows, pom poms, glitter, and gift tags. Have the kiddos help you for a fun family bonding time during this holiday season.

Introduce yourself.

My name is Giaro Giarratana. At the moment I am located in Amsterdam, and I work as a model, art director and online influencer.

How long have you been wearing your hair naturally curly?

Wow, That’s  a long time already! I think around 7 or 8 years now.

Describe your personal style.

I like to switch from style every now and then but I think you can describe it as quite sophisticated. It has a bit of a rock or bohemian feeling to it; it is kinda hard to describe haha.

What inspires you?

I get inspired by everything I see around me. But I love to get inspired by art. Oh, and the people I love…of course!

What is your curly hair routine?

Depends on the day. The hard thing with curls as the most of you will know is that you can never rely on them haha. Everyday they are different. I like to shower before I go to sleep, add some leave-in conditioner, and put some moisturizing cream in it. When I wake up, I add what needs to be added–depending on how frizzy it is.

How do other men react to your hair?

Both negative and positive. But most of the time positive!

You travel a lot. Any tips for packing light?

I’m not the best at packing light, to be honest. But I recently read an article in which someone said that you should always pack on what you hope will happen on that trip. I think that’s a good one!

How can we keep up with you?

You can follow me on my instagram @GiaroGiarratana. And also, don’t forget to subscribe on YouTube channel–there are some crazy videos coming soon! 

In our Curly Q&A section we receive questions every day asking for advice, but this one caught our eye:

Question

“Frustrated, about to cut off all my curly hair, help. Tired of this and dealing with everything that has to do with curly hair. What should I do?”

Answer

Before I could properly address this question, I needed to ask her a few things:

What is the biggest problem you’re dealing with? What does your everyday routine consist of? (Don’t give up!”>

Her response

1. I wash day every other day
2. I co-wash 3 times a month with a clarifying shampoo
3. I rock mostly wash and gos, and use the LOC method.

My hair seems to have stopped growing–its at shoulder length now. I have ombre red ends and I am tired of the color, but don’t want to recolor. My last color was in May. Right now I have my hair in a bun (this is day 5 hair”> and it is a rat’s nest. I am not looking forward to washing again.

My suggestions

Experiment with products

And it doesn’t have to be a more expensive alternative–stick to your usual budget for hair care but next time, get a different conditioner or clarifying shampoo.

Try a DIY recipe

There are lots of homemades concoctions that are tailored to other things you might not be considering, like porosity (since your ends are colored”>. This can be a cheaper route, too. And depending on the level of recipe, it can be a fun, relaxing personal treat to yourself. Have you tried coconut milk as a cleanser? One word: Heaven. And this is a more moisturizing option to clarifying with a shampoo 3 times a month–that could be a reason why your curls feel like a “rat’s nest”.

Modify your regimen

If the LOC method isn’t working as well as you’d like it to, do the LCO instead. Save your oil for last, and use a different oil. Many 3bs like yourself like argan oil or sweet almond–they are light, won’t weigh your hair down, but add plenty of moisture and sealing properties that will make your wash and go’s last longer. Most importantly, keep your regimen simple. It’s OK to be a lazy natural. Add a curl refresher to your routine, too. It can help you prolong your wash days so that you don’t have to keep washing every other day. That can be extremely drying to your curls, cause them be limp, or be over hydrated (known as hygral fatigue“>.

Rock a different hairstyle

As we enter colder months of the year, now is a great time to try a protective style–Marley twists, crochet braids, or Ghana braids. Wearing a wash and go constantly can get pretty boring and tempt you to want to straighten. The great thing about these styles is that they are low maintenance; sure they take a few hours to install, but if you do it right, they will last a good month or two, which will give you a major break from styling everyday.

Do you have a question for any of the NaturallyCurly editors? Post it here in our Q&A section.

Moisturizing conditioners typically increase the moisture content of the hair, improve elasticity and manageability. They work to add and retain moisture in the hair. Now when we talk about your hair needing extra moisture that doesn’t mean oil. Hydration is a main characteristic of water so increasing water really means replenishing water to the hair, and preventing or minimizing its escape into the surrounding environment. So anything that is going to help improve water retention in the hair is ideal for dry textured hair. There are many ingredients that will help and emollients and oils are among them. Additionally, using oils in conditioners can help nourish the scalp.

Anything that is going to help improve water retention in the hair is ideal for dry textured hair

There are several opinions about which oils are best for hair and it’s really up to you which oils will work best for your hair. However, there are some oils that seem to work better than others. Oils with low molecular weights or shorter fatty acid chains can penetrate the hair cuticle. These oils include: 

• coconut oil
• murumuru butter
• babassu oil

Other oils may be too long to penetrate into the cuticle, and sit on top of the hair coating it increasing slip, improving softness and manageability, and adding shine to the hair. All of these benefits can remain even when the conditioner is rinsed from the hair. These oils are good for sealing versus moisturizing. They include:

• Jamaican black castor oil
• grapeseed oil
• jojoba

For dry hair, oils are important for another reason. Porosity is a key factor in the ability of your hair to maintain moisture. The more porous your hair is the more water it can absorb. Seems like a great thing but there is a flip side to this – it will lose a lot of moisture over time as well. Overly porous hair can be corrected with specific steps. Additionally, conditioners that contain oils can help seal moisture into the hair strand better than those without and this is important for helping to keep moisture in the hair.

Coconut oil versus shea butter

The two oils that are commonly used are coconut oil and Shea butter. Coconut oil is fantastic and there is a lot of science behind its benefits to the hair. Some people have expressed that their often feels drier and tangled from coconut oil and The Natural Haven has this comment to make about this experience:

“The straw like feel some people find with coconut oil is usually related to using too much product because coconut oil is not as viscous as other oils . Hardening of the hair is related usually to temperature because coconut oil solidifies at a fairly low temperature so a cold winter breeze can stiffen hair very fast.”

I personally have no issues with using coconut oil in my hair, especially when it’s used with other conditioning ingredients in a formula. My hair is extremely soft, flexible and moisturized. If you’ve played around with coconut oil and have found no benefit to your hair then leave it out or try fractionated coconut oil instead. It’s coconut oil that’s had a number of fatty chains removed resulting in a very light weight oil that still offers great moisture to the hair.

Shea butter helps to moisturize your scalp. It may be able to penetrate the hair shaft to offer moisturizing and can create a light occlusive layer to prevent further damage. It also contains allantoin that will help with reducing inflammation and increasing cell regeneration on your scalp.

The key to using conditioners with oils is really knowing why they are in the product and how they will benefit your hair. They are there to improve the condition of your hair, not make it worse.

This article was written by Susan Walker of Earthtones Naturals and published on CurlyNikki.

Follow Cyn (pictured above”> here:

Addicted2Etsy and Instagram

How do using conditioners with oils affect your hair? Do you love them or loathe them? 

Do you want to create an all-natural hair gel that is free of any damaging alcohols, silicone, and reminds you of pure paradise? NaturallyCurly’s Social Media Manager, Evelyn, shows us this easy-to-follow recipe that doesn’t require much room, steps, and most importantly–money.

Ingredients

• Flax seeds (golden variety”>: A natural wonder for strengthening the hair because of its concentrated sources of the good fat, omega-3, according to USDA Nutrient Database and Medical News Today. It also gives ample hold, perfect for a gel.
• Aloe vera gel: The Natural Standard Research Collaboration for Mayo Clinic says aloe vera is effective in curing scalp conditions like seborrhea and dandruff. It also has natural slip and moisture. It enhances naturally curly hair texture, too.
• measuring cup
• stocking
• resealable container or bottle

These are optional…

• Almond oil: This oil is ideal for adding natural shine, softness to hair while providing it with natural UV protection, according to Natural Living Ideas 
• Sweet orange essential oil: It is affordable, with a strong, fragrance that lasts and is super concentrated, according to Aroma Web.

Directions

1. Boil 1/4 cup Flax Seeds in 2 cups of water. In 15 minutes, it should look gooey and become a thicker viscosity.

2. Place the stocking inside the container and wrap it around the rim. This will help you strain the seeds.

3. Pour the mix into the stocking to separate and strain the seeds from the gel. 

How to add the optional ingredients

1. Add 4 tablespoons of Aloe Vera for pH balance and moisture, a few drops of sweet almond oil for more slip and shine, a few drops of sweet orange oil for fragrance and softness. Only put it in the mix once it is cool, NOT hot.

1. Pour into your reusable container. Don’t contaminate it with your hands–only use what you need. This batch is good for 2 to 3 weeks, so use it every day.

Watch the video

Limp, dull texture that falls flat is not a hair issue reserved to only straight and wavy-haired people. Type 4 coily natural hair also deals with a lack of luster due to a number of factors–typically from using products packed with silicone, bad alcohol, sulfates, and other harsh ingredients that strip the scalp and roughen the cuticle. If this sounds like you, it may be time to try what naturals call the “Ethiopian Hair Secret.” The great thing about treatment is that it is fairly easy to follow and inexpensive–you can do it right in your dorm room.

According to Sarah Bridge of The Daily Mail, slathering butter on hair and scalp started as a wedding tradition for a number of Ethiopian tribes like the Afar, Borana, and Hamar. The men adorn their nature-given crowns with ‘asdago’ afro styles. It serves as a way to “protect their scalp from the sun, keep their afros and dreadlocks in place,” and is seen as a blessing. Sometimes, other men will spit atop the head to add their blessing to the newlywed couple.

Many Ethiopian tribes slather butter onto their hair and scalp, protecting it from the sun–and to bless themselves during their wedding.

The Desi Dossier says she first heard about this on-the-hush hair treatment from a friend who would travel to Ethiopia and get them there, “where home made clarified butter (ghee”> is applied to hair and leaves hair really healthy.”

What You Need

• A lump of unsalted butter (use organic if you can, I didn’t have any”>
• A saucepan
• A closeable container 

1. Cut the butter into cubes and put in the saucepan on a low heat until it melts.

2. The butter will start melting, boiling, and separating into a foamy layer and a golden one.

3. Begin skimming the foamy one with a spoon.

4. Once you remove the foamy, white layer completely, strain the golden liquid through a metal sieve.

5. Let the butter cool for a few hours before using it for the first time.

Use a spoon to scoop the butter out in the future (so you do not contaminate the jar”>. Before using, warm your amount up and then apply to your hair for super penetration. Store away in the fridge and use as needed. Keep this batch for 3 to 4 weeks before making another one. 

You rely on it every day to sterilize your household items in the kitchen and bathroom. You use it in your tea for a sore throat, and on a wound to speed up the healing process while providing a clean protective layer. But have you started using lemon essential oil in your hair? You should.

Lemon juice contains 5 to 6 percent citric acid and has a low pH balance, meaning it is considered the perfect all-natural antibacterial agent.

First discovered in the Mediterranean regions of Spain and Portugal, lemon oil has a long valued history in its herbal and medicinal contributions throughout the world and even still today. Sustainable Baby Steps says “it requires about 3,000 lemons to make one kilo of lemon essential oil (Citrus limon“>.” So, while this essential oil is widely popular and attainable at most health, beauty, and natural food store, it is still precious and deemed highly valuable in its benefits.

What does it do?

Balance sebum production

For oily skin and scalp, lemon oil works to balance out their extra sebum production. Add four drops to wet hands and massage it through your hair on wet, not soaking hair after every co-wash. It will, over time, reduce your need to use a shampoo as frequently.

Antiseptic

Lemon is also a well-known antiseptic that effectively disinfects minor cuts and wounds in the scalp you may not even knew you had. According to Uncle Harry’s, “the oil has many different properties, one of the most important being its ability to activate the white corpuscles that defend the body against any infection.” Did you just take down a protective style that may have agitated your follicles? Use some lemon essential oil to rejuvenate your scalp back to normal.

Aromatherapeutic effects

If you tend to do your wash routine in the mornings, lemon essential oil is a great addition. It will wake up your body and mind with its potent, fresh scent.

Products with lemon oil

Lemon oil works on literally every hair type–from straight to coily, and from dry to oily. Here are some products that will help you get your lemon fix.

Aubrey Organics Biotin Repair Scalp Tonic

This treatment is packed with a long list of beneficial ingredients that provide the vital nutrients a scalp needs for healthier hair growth. It contains growth encouraging biotin, nourishing nettle extract, and smoothing burdock root.

Kiehl`s Olive Fruit Oil Nourishing Conditioner

If you are looking for a conditioner that will make hair feel thicker, shinier, and more luscious, this is it. Made with olive fruit and avocado oils, it provides necessary protein that helps fine hair feel fuller and look more vibrant.

Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Serum

Why not get multiple citrus essential oil benefits in one bottle? This lightweight stimulating scalp serum fills the cortex of each follicles with important vitamins that will restore damaged, dry hair.

Desert Essence Organics Hair Care Shampoo

This gentle cleansing shampoo also contains Leptospermum Petersonii Oil, which falls into the tea tree oil category. Together, this and lemon oil provide nourishment to an inflamed, itchy scalp and soothe hair.

Have you used lemon essential oil on your hair yet?

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Curly hair specialist Melanie Nickels is founder and president of Naples, Florida based salon and product lines Raw Hair Organics, Inc. She is also founder and president of Melanie A. Nickels Nutz & Boltz Foundation and has been working as a stylist for over 18 years, and working in the organic salon business since 2007.  

When did becoming a curly hair specialist become a passion of yours? 

I have always had an interest in curly hair since I am a curly girl, but I really started taking it seriously in 2009 when I started training in curly hair. I was hearing about specialty cutting techniques for curly hair and that just made sense to me.

You have a product line called Raw Curls. What makes this line necessary for people with curly hair?

The 2 most important things for curly hair are the right cut and the right products. Raw Curls products are perfect for curly textures because they are gentle, moisturizing, and pure. My products deliver outstanding results using organic ingredients that leave the hair healthy, shiny, and frizz-free. I tell my clients that using  Raw Curls products is like taking supplements for the hair and scalp.

You also have a pet care line. 

We actually put the pet line on hold to launch the Raw Curls, which I feel was a good decision. We are hoping to bring the pet line out in the near future.

What is the biggest mistake you often find yourself correcting on your clients’ hair? 

When new curly clients come to me the thing I see a lot of is what I have termed the “jellyfish.”  This is when there is a big shelf in the hair like a bushy triangle or mushroom, and then stringy dangles that hang down (pictured above”>. Also, I see a lot of stripy over-highlighted hair.

What’s the biggest piece of advice you wish you could tell every curly out there? 

Spend money on your hair–you wear it everyday! It is so worth paying for a truly specialized curly cut and great professional products that are healthy for you and your hair.

How can we keep up with you online and book an appointment?

In my opinion, your shampoo may be the most important product in your arsenal. I say that because a good shampoo keeps your scalp healthy (which means better hair growth”> and makes your hair easier to comb. A bad shampoo will lead to drier hair, scalp irritation, and unstoppable frizz. Your shampoo is truly the first step to smooth, manageable hair. You need a good shampoo in your life!

The best shampoos contain:

• Sulfate-free cleansers to prevent excessive dryness and scalp irritation
• Cationic ingredients to condition your hair while you cleanse
• pH adjusters to balance the pH of the shampoo and prevent unnecessary cuticle damage to your hair

Sulfate-free Cleansers

Have you noticed all the “sulfate-free” shampoos popping up? It sounds like classic marketing hype, but there are a few good reasons to avoid sulfate-based cleansers. Every cleansing product, whether it’s shampoo, dish soap or laundry detergent, contains surfactants. Surfactants are the ingredients that allow oil to be dissolved from a dirty surface. If you put dish soap on a pot and leave it to soak, you’re waiting for the surfactants in your dish soap to break up the grease left from your food. Sulfate-based surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate have been used in shampoo for many years, but current scientific research has found them to be significantly irritating for the scalp and drying to the hair.

Does that mean your hair will drastically change if you use a “sulfate-free shampoo”? Probably not. Most women are using sulfate-based shampoos because that’s the majority of what’s on the market. Even if a shampoo contains sulfates it can still be formulated to work well for your hair. However, I want you to have the most up to date information and the reality is there are better options for cleansing our naturally dry strands. To find the gentlest shampoos, look for products that contain at least one of the surfactants listed below in the top 5.

Gentle surfactants to look for

• Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
• Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
• Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

Harsh/Drying surfactants to skip

• Sodium Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Myreth Sulfate
• Saponified Oils 
• Soap

Conditioners and Cationics

You should condition your hair at every step of your routine…during cleansing, after cleansing, and before styling. It probably seems like shampoo can’t cleanse and condition at the same time, but cosmetic chemistry makes it possible. You know how clothes get stuck together in the dryer and they make a popping sound when you pull them apart? That happens because of something called static charge. Curls and coils naturally have a negative charge that causes constant frizz and fly aways. You can make your hair smoother and easier to comb by choosing a shampoo that contains positively charged conditioning ingredients called “cationics”. The ingredients listed below spread over your hair while you lather the shampoo and they stay locked to your strands while dirt and product residue rinse away. The cationic ingredients in your shampoo will increase the effects of your conditioner.

Cationics to look for in your shampoo (the more the better”>:

• Amodimethicone

• Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

• Polyquaternium-7

• Polyquaternium-10

• Polyquaternium-11

• Polyquaternium-44

• Polyquaternium-47

pH Adjusters

Is your shampoo pH-balanced? Chances are it is, but does that really matter? The answer is actually yes! The pH value of a liquid tells you whether it’s an acid (like orange juice”> or a base (like baking soda mixed with water”>. pH values below 7 are acids, values above 7 are bases. Skin and hair are made of keratin proteins and all types of protein are sensitive to pH. Our skin and hair can better maintain their natural strength when they are kept at acidic pH values between 4.5 and 6.5. Manufacturers don’t make shampoos with pH values below 4.5, but there are a few shampoos out there that are above 7. When the shampoo is basic instead of acidic, the outer cuticle of your hair will swell excessively when you lather up. When your hair dries later, you’ll be left with the kind of volume you don’t like…stubborn frizz and tangles. Shampoos that are pH balanced help the cuticle resist unnecessary swelling. 

Most shampoos sold at drugstores and beauty supplies will be pH balanced. It’s standard practice for manufacturers to add pH adjusters to shampoo. If you’d like to test the pH of your product at home, I recommend Micro Essentials pHydrion plastic pH indicator strips.

Recommended Shampoos

All of these shampoos are sulfate-free and safe for color-treated hair.

L’Oreal EverCreme Intense Nourishing Shampoo

$7 for 8.5 oz, available at drugstores

You can’t beat the price of this shampoo for the quality. A very small amount of product produces a rich, easy to spread lather. Make sure to look for the word “Intense” on the label.

Giovanni Colorflage Daily Color Defense Shampoo

$9 for 8.5 oz, available at Vitamin Shoppe and Amazon.com

This shampoo contains “copolymers” which help hair dye last longer.

Free Your Mane Sulfate Free Hydrating Shampoo

$16 for 10.14 oz, available at FreeYourMane.com

Free Your Mane products were designed with Type 4 natural hair in mind. This shampoo lathers quickly and contains a high level of conditioners. 

Carol’s Daughter Chocolat Smoothing Shampoo

$18 for 8.5 oz.Available at Sephora and CarolsDaughter.com

The Chocolat Smoothing Shampoo is the newest and best shampoo in the Carol’s Daughter line. It’s similar to the L’Oreal EverCreme shampoo, but it contains more conditioning ingredients.

CURLS Curliscious Curls Cleansing Cream

$15 for 8 oz.Available at Target, Sally Beauty, and Curls.biz

This cleansing cream is the best choice for those who prefer to wash daily because it contains very mild cleansers. It’s definitely worth trying if co-washing doesn’t agree with your scalp.

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This article was originally written by chemist Nicole Harmon and published on CurlyNikki.

Whether you are a seasoned natural veteran or a newbie who just had her big chop, chances are you have come across an abundance of information regarding all of the important factors that make for a healthy natural hair journey.

Has ‘amino acids’ come across on your screen once or twice? You know you should pay attention to these nutrients, but not quite sure why. Well, here’s the breakdown on why they are important to your overall health and hair regimen.

Amino acids are completely natural micronutrients, which have significant benefits such as supporting hair growth. They are your body’s protein building blocks.

According to the doctors at AminoAcidStudies.org, “Amino acids are completely natural micronutrients, which have very significant benefits such as supporting hair growth, maintaining cartilage in joints (treating arthritis”>, improving circulation, immunity, and others…”

Your skin needs them

Studies have shown that amino acids through supplements and topical beauty products can lead to an even complexion, improve the appearance–wrinkles, fine lines, sun spots, stretch marks, and more.

There are 4 major amino acids for skin care:

1. Proline
2. Glycine
3. Leucine
4. Lysine

Together, they work together to provide antioxidant powers to strengthen the skin and also act as an exfoliant to boost moisture retention on the newer layer of skin underneath your Epidermis (the outer layer”>. Your other layers Subcutaneous, and Dermis equally benefit from amino acids for protecting them from potentially harmful environmental factors. Because of this, amino acids are used in various anti-aging products. Love to Know says they might trump the popular ‘alpha hydroxy system’ in effectiveness when it comes to smoothing skin and improving an even tone. Right now, there are 2 trending amino acid treatments: AFA (Acid Filaggrin Antioxidants”> and Amino Genesis. 

The skin conditions that see improvement from products with high amino acid content:

• Rosacea
• Psoriasis
• Chronic Dermatitis

Your body needs them

Amino acids can be incorporated into your diet to reap the benefits of them, as well. Leafy greens, fish, nuts, beans, and soy are all rich in the above amino acids, which have been proven to improve your immune system, ease the pain of those with Fibromyalgia, and even your body’s natural sleep pattern. According to a study by University of Arizona’s biochemistry department, your body produces 10 out of 20 amino acids. The other 10 must be supplied by food.

We produce these 10 amino acids:

1. Alanine
2. Asparagine
3. Aspartic acid
4. Cysteine
5. Glutamic acid
6. Glutamine
7. Glycine
8. Proline
9. Serine
10. Tyrosine

We need food for these amino acids:

1. Arginine
2. Histidine
3. Isoleucine
4. Leucine
5. Lysine
6. Methionine
7. Phenylalanine
8. Threonine
9. Tryptophan
10. Valine

Your hair needs them

Amino acids are your building blocks of protein. The 3 layers of your skin, cuticle, cortex, and medulla, need amino acids for a number of things. L-lysine positively affects the synthesis of collagen in hair, which improves elasticity–this means bouncier curls for you. It also reduces daily hair loss and thinning–specifically, androgenic alopecia.

The following dietary and supplemental amino acid treatment serums can be found in your local natural grocery store:

• NOW Foods Amino Complete Caps
• Bragg Liquid Aminos
• BSN Amino X- Watermelon
• Vitacost L-Lysine Capsules

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You can also get your amino acid fix with these hair products:

Are baking soda and apple cider vinegar really the best for cleansing your natural hair? Find out below!

Are you familiar with The Natural Haven blog? The name sounds like it’s about natural products but it’s really about the the science of natural hair, in other words hair that hasn’t been chemically processed. It’s written by a scientist who goes by the name of “JC” and she posted a very interesting piece on evaluating different types of mild cleansers.

She did an experiment where she collected her own shed hair which she divided into several groups: a negative control group that was left dirty and oily. A positive control that was washed with regular shampoo, and several test groups which she washed with different types of cleansers. then, and here’s the cool part, she took micrographs of group to determine how well the test products cleaned.

Here’s what she found:

• Best cleansers (all of the oil removal”>: shampoo, oat water (oats boiled in water to release natural saponins”>, and natural soap bar. 
• Good cleanser (most of the oil removed”>: Hair conditioner (cowash”>, liquid castle soap, and clay.
• Poor cleanser (little to no oil removal”>: Baking soda, Shikaki (crushed acacia pods”> and the worst of all Apple Cider Vinegar.

The reason I mention this story is that It’s refreshing to see someone look for evidence rather than just say “ baking soda and ACV are best for cleansing your hair.” So kudos to you JC of The Natural Haven! The Beauty Brains salute you!

Some curlies swear by ACV rinses and others only co-wash, but as you’ll quickly find on your curly hair journey, what works for one won’t work for another.

What’s your cleansing regimen?

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This article was originally published on The Beauty Brains and shared on CurlyNikki.

According to the University of Chicago Medicine, men and women shed an average of 50 to 100 hairs per day, and 90 percent of hair grows continuously. The other 10 percent stays in a “resting phase” for a few months until it sheds. However, some people experience more shed hair, or hair loss, than others. A number of things contribute to hair loss, including aging, hormones, stress, and illness. Other lesser known reasons for hair loss include excessive vitamin A intake and pattern baldness caused by hats, headbands, or eyeglasses. It is typically more prevalent along the hairline, or vertex, of the scalp. 

Thankfully there are number of hair loss treatments available in the hair care or vitamin section of most grocery and wellness stores. Next time, take a look at the main ingredient on the box of each product and you might notice one word that they all have in common: Minoxidil.

Understanding the real of baldness

Ryan Doss for Livestrong tells us how pattern baldness occurs–first, testosterone is converted into dihydrotestosterone or, DHT. Then, “it has the ability to bind to special receptors on hair follicles. Individuals with a genetic predisposition to male pattern baldness have similar receptors on the hair follicles in their scalp that, instead of promoting hair growth when bound by DHT, actually thin hair and cause hair loss.”

How does Minoxidil work?

The National Institutes of Health (NIH”> says “Minoxidil is used to stimulate hair growth and to slow balding.” It prolongs the growth phase of hair follicles by widening them and prolonging the anagen stage of hair growth. This increases the density of the affected person’s hair. The exact cause of how Minoxidil works on a physiological basis is still unknown but since being FDA-approved in 1988, this drug has been proven to show exceptional results in slowing hair loss. 

Quantity and application

Originally intended as a blood pressure solution, Minoxidil topical now comes in pure form as a liquid with either an extender spray, dropper, or rub-on applicator for easy application to the scalp. Walgreens has a 2% women’s Minoxidil topical solution in a 3-month supply. For men, Rogaine offers a 5% 3-month supply in the form of a foam. These companies usually advise to not exceed usage twice daily. It is important to know that overusing this drug will not produce faster results. 

Note: Ask your doctor before using topical Minoxidil. It is not to be confused with oral Minoxidil. This advice is not intended to be replaced with that of a licensed professional. 

This is what the NaturallyCurly editors are talking about this week. Because even after work, we cannot curb our fanatical ways about hair. 

Britney Spears and Iggy Azalea are trying to bring a (bad”> 80’s trend back.

True 80s babies can officially hide underneath a rock while the ugly crimped hair trend swings through for a comeback. Did you watch the Britney Spears and Iggy Azaela video for Pretty Girls? Neither did we. But based off of the overload of screenshots (AKA future memes”> found on the internet, there was no shortage of tacky neon fashion accessories, crimping irons, and crop tops on set. We’ll pass on the crimpers and rock our natural curls instead.

One writer’s take on living with curly hair care helps us relate…

Life has been no walk in the park for curly girl Maggie Lange. And if the elements have anything to do with the situation, forget about it. (“Any droplet could start a butterfly effect of frizz.””> But if years of experience dealing with an untamable mane account for anything, Maggie has got your back. She offers her fellow NY Mag followers the top 5 must-know tips all curlies should follow, stat.

…While another writer reminds us why laying off the flat irons was a good call.

No matter where in our natural hair journeys we may be now, we all remember the freakily obsessed days with our crispy flat irons. And if we ever act too good to remember, Seventeen writer Jelani Addams sure does bring us back to what once our everyday reality. We sure are thankful for it. She shares her horrific experience badly heat damaging her coarse textured hair and how it scarred her for life– no pun intended.

Oh, you didn’t know? Hair Botox is a thing now.

For those of us who have failed luck with numerous deep conditioning protein treatments and are desperate to repair our hair damage, look no further. There’s a revamped version of “Hair Botox” –it’s called Elite Hair Protein, and it helps the hair follicles strengthen by coating and hardening them with collagen and other necessary proteins. Eve Salon in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia specializes in the treatment. Rehab, a specialist at the salon says this Hair Botox is multipurpose: “The treatment enables hair recovery, growth, strengthening through three attained results: intensive conditioning and damage recovery of hair strands, strong coating on hair follicles that eliminates hair breakage and prevention of split ends, and texture nourishment that ends hair knots and hair fall.”

Ombre isn’t going anywhere–you can thank Foilyage for that.

Bayalage, dip dyeing, contouring, pixelated, ecaille, ombre. All of the trendy, edgy hair coloring techniques your salon constantly tried to lure you into trying. If you’ve colored your hair in the past say, two years, chances are you have tested ombre out for yourself. Now in 2015, it’s attempting another go with the millennials. Enter: Foilyage. Similar but also different from the “streaking” method circa our Nsync and Britney Spears idolization era, this hair coloring technique was developed by Hitomi Ikeda, combining “free-hand painting with foil highlighting.” Will you ask your hairstylist for this?