Black people’s influence has threatened mainstream America despite starting cultural trends, especially in hair care. Companies jeopardized Black women’s jobs and careers by discriminating against them due to their natural hair. Dove and Black women legislators created The Crown Act to dismantle ostracism and its consequences against Black hair. The enacting law “prohibits race-based hair discrimination,” which includes “locs, twists, braids, and bantu knots.”
There was a time when conglomerates prohibited Black people from using their products. Now, the Black dollar remains a number one marketing strategy for lifestyle brands. Black hair care entrepreneurs innovated inclusive products for textured hair. Brands like Carol’s Daughter, Brigeo, and Mielle Organics, shaped superstars turned to hair experts, including Taraji P. Henson, Tracee Ellis Ross, and reportedly Beyonce (after she speculated on Instagram) formulated ingredients that nourish afro-textured tresses. Curly girls’ pockets may have suffered after buying their “fan favorites,” but many historic brands paved the way before social media, influencers, and virality. These historic Black innovators created a “table” for Black hair care when brands neglected our coils and culture.
Madam C.J Walker
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Madam C.J Walker became the pioneer for Black haircare during the Harlem Renaissance. Born Sarah Breedlove, Walker’s success was attributed to her haircare products, making her the first Black woman and a “self-made millionaire woman,” as revealed by Guinness World Records. Walker evolved from a sharecropper’s daughter to an iconic public figure. During a time when Black hair was deemed as unruly, Walker created “Madam C.J. Walker’s Wonderful Hair Grower,” a treatment conditioning Black hair with household products like petroleum jelly, coconut oil, beeswax, and presumably sulfur—an active ingredient to boost hair growth.
Image Source: @madambymcjw
Walker’s great-great-granddaughter, A’Leila Bundles, applauds Walker’s triumphs as the sole historian for her empire. So much so, Sundial’s CEO, Cara Sabin, and Bundles rebuilt her ancestor’s hair care by naming it “Madam by Madam C.J. Walker,” in honor of Walker’s legacy. The new beauty line’s ingredients contain shea butter, castor oil, lavender, and pomegranate seed oil—essential products rooted in hair growth. Walker’s new line intersects Black excellence history with a “Gen Z” approach.
Dr. Willie Lee Morrow
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Most curly girls know the final step to a voluminous afro is the afro pick. The afro pick dates back to Ancient Africa, where northern African women used picks to accessorize. In the 70s, Black people shifted their political stance in America while celebrating Black culture. The natural fro and the pick became pivotal in Black history thanks to its inventor, Dr. Willie Lee Morrow. The barber migrated to San Diego for communal efforts and “provide resources for his people,” Vibe Magazine reports. Morrow repurposed the Afro-pick while cutting hair to generate wealth for his people.
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The hairstylist invested in his own media company and designed combs while formulating chemicals to turn coily hair curly. The Washington Post credited Morrow as the originator of the “The California Curl”—before Jheri Redding altered the idea and created, “The Jheri Curl.” Though Redding “exploited” his idea Morrow invented a tenacious effort to maximize his Black empire.
Fred Luster Sr.
Fred Luster Sr. generated an empire stocked at the local beauty supply. The barber turned global businessman created The S-Curl texturizers, Smooth Touch Relaxers, and the nostalgic Pink Hair Oil Moisturizer. The oil became a staple in the Black household. Since relaxers were linked to cancer, the natural hair movement resurfaced—celebrating Black hair and its glory.
Image Source: @lusterspink
Hair care retailers replaced the pink oil moisturizer when with clean, environmental-focused products. Luster’s original formula contained mineral oil, parabens, a distinct bubble-gum fragrance, and an oily residue, which caused controversy in the curly girl community. Since then, the family-owned company has reformulated the cult favorite into a silicone-free option for naturals who are conscious about their scalps.
Edward G. and Retiaan Gardner
Chicago’s hair royalty, Retiann, and Edward G. Gardner represent how Black love influences activism and hair care. After delivering products out of his trunk, the Gardners started their company Soft Sheen Products in the mid-1960s, Ebony Magazine reported. Soft Sheen Products’ gained notoriety for their Care-Free Curl brand— a line of leave-in moisturizers packed with protein and glycerin.
Image Source: @softsheencarson_pro
The Gardners impacted Chicago households by employing nearly 900 people during its reign. Also, they made charitable donations to their Southside Community after opening the Regal Theater. Edward sold their multi-dollar company to L’Oreal Paris in the late 1990s, making his children run “day-to-day operations,” though his son, Gary Gardner, separated from the family’s business and produced his hair care brand, ORS Hair Care.
Cara Sabin
Though Shea Moisture’s legacy just started, its impact over the past decades remains supreme. There is no doubt Shea Moisture became almost every curly blogger’s best friend. Sundial’s reign became a pivotal moment in the new age of Black haircare for Zillenials that’s social media driven. Founders Richelieu and Mary Dennis (the mother and son duo) sold their beloved company to Unilever, according to Forbes.
Images Source: @sheamoisture
Shea butter, a popular West African essential oil that soothes the scalp and skin with its healing properties became Sundial’s vital ingredient. The Jamaican Black Castor line became a favorite, especially for those with limp, dull coils. Cara Sabin became Shea Moisture’s CEO in 2019, two years after Unilever acquired the brand. Now, the powerhouse operates Nubian Heritage, Nyakio, and Madam C.J. Walker while operating in West Africa to source “raw ingredients” and bridge the wealth gap for Black women. Sabrin continues to reshape beauty standards by investing in small-owed brands.
Newer hair care creators mirrored past innovators to restore moisture and growth. Check out the shelf life of these highly recommended brands that will leave your strands fresh and hydrated.
