It wasn’t until I noticed that certain areas near my hairline looked more sparse than normal that I started looking into hair growth products. Instead of panic (hair loss is a normal process many people go through as we get older), I switched out my go-to shampoos, conditioners, and hair oils for ones that promised to get my hair back on track. But a method that has caught my—and many others—attention might be one of the most useful strategies in stimulating hair growth. I’m talking about dermarolling.
Skincare enthusiasts know the benefits of dermarolling for their skin (boost in collagen, firmer skin, etc.), but how does this tool help with hair? To answer that, and address everything else you need to know about dermarollers, we turned to the experts.
Below, they break down what it is, its benefits, and how to use one.
What is dermarolling?
Dermarolling is a form of microneedling. As Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology explains, it involves using a device with small fine needles that will create tiny punctures in the skin. Dr. Garshick says this is done to trigger our skin’s natural healing process, which results in collagen and elastin production. This method is then used on the scalp with the idea that it will help stimulate healthy hair growth in areas that it needs to.
How does it work for hair loss?
“We aren’t sure exactly why this works,” says Neera Nathan, MD, board-certified dermatologist and chief dermatological advisor at Vegamour. “But [we] hypothesize that the tiny punctures stimulate growth factors from the healing process that are beneficial for hair growth.”
Dr. Nathan adds that these tiny punctures also help increase blood flow to the scalp, which may help in getting hair to grow. But this is really only beneficial if you have a widening part or thinning hair on the scalp. For scarring hair loss or conditions such as alopecia, she says dermarollers won’t do much.
The Benefits
Using a dermaroller actually has other benefits other than helping with hair loss. Dr. Garshick says that it can help improve your overall scalp health by boosting blood flow and nutrient delivery. It also boosts collagen production and can help certain scalp conditions such as dryness, flakiness, and dandruff.
The Downsides
But there are a couple of downsides with dermarolling. Dr. Garshick says there is a possibility of irritation and redness, especially if you’re not using it properly or if you have sensitive skin. She adds that there is also a risk of infection if you’re using the tool on open cuts or wounds. Those who are dealing with inflammatory scalp conditions such as psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, eczema, or active scalp infections should avoid using a dermaroller. “It is all about careful use,” says Dr. Nathan.
How to Dermaroll for Hair Loss
Dermarolling is pretty easy to incorporate into your routine. First, you’ll want to sanitize your tool before and after use, says Dr. Nathan, with something that contains at least 70% isopropyl alcohol. Next, you’ll part your hair where you want to see more hair growth. Once you’ve exposed the area you need treated, you’ll grab your dermaroller and carefully glide it over the skin. She says to do this five times horizontally and then follow another five times in a vertical direction. Repeat on other thinning areas.
She recommends doing this once a week to start and then you can work your way upwards if you can tolerate it. When looking for a dermaroller to use, she says to look for needles that are between 0.25 to 0.5 millimeters. (“Deeper needles can cause trauma and scarring,” she warns. “[Dermarolling] should be painless”). And be sure to replace the head monthly to prevent needles from dulling.
Dr. Garshick likes the Act + Acre Scalp Dermaroller or the Koi Beauty Dermaroller. Dr. Nathan recommends the Vegamour GRO+ Advanced Hair Serum and Dermaroller Set, which gives you a dermaroller, replaceable heads, and the best complementary piece to the tool—a hair growth serum.
While you can use the dermaroller on its own to stimulate hair growth, both experts agree that it is more effective when you add a hair growth serum afterwards for maximum results. “Hair growth serums like minoxidil or rogaine are highly recommended for use immediately after dermarolling to enhance absorption and effectiveness,” says Dr. Garshick. “Post-treatment serums containing peptides, biotin, or caffeine can also support hair growth.”
Is it one hundred percent foolproof in the hair growth department? No, but nothing ever is. A little over a month into dermarolling my scalp before I go to bed, I definitely notice the area looks less sparse. If your skin can tolerate it, dermarolling is definitely worth a try.
