“I did some small twists and wore those for a few days and now I have the best twist out I’ve ever had. But I can never seem to keep the results for more than a day, and I REFUSE to put all those twists back in every night. Anybody have any suggestions on how to maintain the definition overnight? I usually just put my bonnet on and pray for the best in the morning!”
Jamila responds:
As with any protective style, always remember to moisturize. Before setting your hair for the night, I suggest spritzing with water or another moisturizing agent and sealing your ends with an oil or butter. Here are two simple ways to maintain your twists and twist outs for days!
Retwist in Big Chunks
It may seem like a pain, but retwisting your hair at night is one of the best ways to maintain the definition of your twists. Don’t worry– you don’t have to do mini twists every night to get the same look, you can retwist in bigger sections and get similar results!
Take a big section of hair and stretch it out a bit
If sections are frizzy, take shea butter or other creams and smooth it over each chunk
You might want to stick with a lighter product so it doesn’t weigh down your twists
Get the twist really tight at the root, otherwise it will unravel
If ends unravel, take a little bit of styler and twirl it on your ends for hold
Sleep with a satin bonnet!
In the morning, separate them like normal and fluff at the roots
Spritz your hair with water at night to moisturize
Secure your hair with a satin scrunchie and make a bun
Make sure your ends are secure in the scrunchie
Cover your hair with a satin bonnet!
In the morning, shake it loose and re-mist with water.
Separate your twists with your fingers for some extra volume.
Pineapple
Pineappling refers to putting your hair at the crown of your head and securing it with a loose ponytail. Check out CurlyNikki’s pineappling method! If your hair is shorter, you will need to try the multi-pineapple. Here’s a guide on how to pineapple for all lengths…from twa to bsl.
You finally decided to start your healthy curly hair journey with the Curly Girl Method. “Embrace my curls” or “Curly and proud,” you repeat to yourself. A few website clicks later, and you find products that are labeled “Sulfate and Silicone Free“. You take the plunge and purchase them without checking the ingredients because you trust the labels. Now you have $70 worth of hair product on its way. Recommendations continue to pop up on your social media feed, and $300 later, you still haven’t found what works for YOUR HAIR!
“You’ll just have to try it and see if it works for you!” or “This is all about trial and error!” others would gently say.
I am here to tell you that there is another way to choose your products instead of trying everything that is on the market. Understanding how to read ingredient lists has transformed my curly hair journey without decimating my bank balance!
In the very early stages of my journey with the Curly Girl Method, I made these mistakes several times. A shampoo would have the label “Sulfate Free” at the front, and then later, I would have a hard time dealing with dryness and would finally see a Sulfate listed in the ingredients. From my experience over time, I came to understand that when advertisers label “Sulfate Free” at the very front, they are referring to one of the harshest Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. However, this does not mean that the product is entirely free of Sulfates. On several occasions, I have found other drying Sulfates in the list, despite the “Sulfate Free” label.
Curly Girl-friendly ingredients to look for
In the Curly Girl Method, we avoid harsh Sulfates and drying Alcohols (they dehydrate the hair), Silicones, Waxes, and Mineral Oils (they build up). As replacements, we look for ingredients that are mild, moisturizing, and soluble for curly hair in order to minimize dryness and foster better moisture retention.
If you are following the Curly Girl Method like me, look for cleansers that are mild for curls, such as:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate or Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Slip is very helpful for detangling curls because it decreases friction. Silicones are used in traditional mainstream products to add slip and shine. The issue with Silicones is that they don’t penetrate the hair shaft to make it better and they also build up.
They are removable with Sulfates, but in turn, the frequent use of Sulfates dehydrates the hair. It becomes a vicious cycle. Soluble ingredients for lubrication, on the other hand, make the hair better over time. They also add shine and flexibility to curly hair. If you follow the Curly Girl Method like me, you can replace Silicones with soluble ingredients that are located near the top of the list, such as:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Behentrimonium Chloride
Dicetyldimonium Chloride
Distearyldimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium 55
Cetrimonium Bromide
I came to learn this helpful information from Wendy (a scientist) on the Hair Science-y Blog and Tonya Mckay here on NaturallyCurly.
Ingredient amounts in products
The Natural Haven Bloom Blog has helped me to understand the importance of ingredient concentrations in products. For example, just because a product is advertised with an “Argan Oil” label doesn’t mean that this product has high amounts of this oil. When ingredients are listed, they appear in descending order, calculated by either mass or volume.
As a result, when we read lists, we should always focus on the first five ingredients because they are the main ingredients (in higher amounts). A product that is labeled “Argan Oil” may well have some Argan oil included in the list, but the amount should be the most important thing to look for. If Argan oil is included near the end of the list, the amount is very small and insignificant.
If you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, relying only on front labels is likely to cause problems. Here I am sharing four steps that you can take to safeguard yourself:
Read ingredient lists very carefully;
Try a single new product at a time. This is helpful because if something unusual happens, you will know that the only difference in your routine is the brand-new product;
Patch test the product on your skin before using it for the first time, even if you can’t spot any ingredients that are harmful to you: Apply a small amount of the product on a patch of skin that is located on the inner, lower arm. Rub it in and allow it to dry. Avoid washing the area for at least 24 hours and then watch for signs of a reaction;
Observe closely how your scalp reacts after product application, even if the product has passed the first three steps above. If you notice a burning sensation, itching, redness, lumps or anything unusual on your scalp, you will know that this product isn’t suitable for you.
Always remember: If you happen to have a serious allergic reaction to a product, please seek medical attention immediately.
In summary, if you are looking for a product that is healthy for curls, focus on mild cleansers that won’t dehydrate your hair. Choose conditioners and styling products that have soluble ingredients for slip and elasticity. Reading ingredient lists is a good habit when caring for your curls and overall health. It also saves money and time. The more you practice, the easier it becomes.
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