In the naturally curly community, there are several DIY hair masks you’ve heard of floating around the internet–from deep conditioners to protein treatments to moisture masks. Do you know the proper way to apply these at home treatments to get the best results on your curls? Follow along!
1. Ensure that your hair is clean!
Most DIY treatments work best when applied on clean hair. Why? You won’t have to deal with any product build-up–your strands will be free of any previous products applied, therefore allowing your curls to absorb the nutrients as much as possible. You can choose to either co-wash or clarify as long as your hair is clean.
2. Apply your mask to hair in sections.
When working with DIY treatments and masks, it’s easier to apply the treatment only when hair has been separated into different sections because you’ll have less knots to work with at a time. I have fine hair, low density, and a small head. For me, four equal sections work. I secure each section with a durable clip to keep the rest of my hair out of the way when applying the treatment.
3. Wear a t-shirt you don’t mind getting dirty.
There’s a huge chance that things will get messy. Sure, you could probably scoop some of the treatment into a squeeze bottle, but more often than not, you’ll make a mess. It’s best to wear a shirt that you don’t mind getting dirty. I like to apply my DIY treatments using my fingers because it’s the easiest way to detect any knots that need gentle detangling. You can also feel where your hair is most dry or brittle and pay extra attention to those areas when smoothing on the treatment.
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4. Start from the roots and work your way down.
While we are looking to achieve healthy and stronger hair, the area at the root is the strongest because it is what is growing directly from your head. Focusing on that area first will ensure that it remains the strongest and will be least likely to break. If you are applying a deep conditioner, start from the bottom and work your way up since it is usually the ends that need the most moisture. Take your time in applying any deep treatment, ensuring that you are thoroughly coating each section and every strand. No curl left behind! After you are done with one section, clip it up and move on to the next.
5. Leave it in for up to 45 minutes so it actually works.
If you are using a hard protein treatment like a DIY gelatin treatment, the duration will be much less since your hair will harden. One thing I like to do is cover my hair with a plastic bag to help trap the heat rising from my head. The heat assists with opening the hair cuticle, which allows for further penetration of the treatment. Another way of indirect heat would be to sit under a hooded dryer.
It might be best to work with one section at a time to ensure that you are getting all of the treatment out. Don’t forget to massage your scalp to lift any treatment that has been sitting on the scalp; you don’t want to risk clogging your hair follicles! Rinse your hair until the water runs clear. Most treatments don’t need to be followed with any cleanser or conditioner. Hard protein treatments should always be followed with a deep conditioner to ensure that moisture is replenished!
Do you have any extra tips on applying an at home hair mask?
You finally decided to start your healthy curly hair journey with the Curly Girl Method. “Embrace my curls” or “Curly and proud,” you repeat to yourself. A few website clicks later, and you find products that are labeled “Sulfate and Silicone Free“. You take the plunge and purchase them without checking the ingredients because you trust the labels. Now you have $70 worth of hair product on its way. Recommendations continue to pop up on your social media feed, and $300 later, you still haven’t found what works for YOUR HAIR!
“You’ll just have to try it and see if it works for you!” or “This is all about trial and error!” others would gently say.
I am here to tell you that there is another way to choose your products instead of trying everything that is on the market. Understanding how to read ingredient lists has transformed my curly hair journey without decimating my bank balance!
In the very early stages of my journey with the Curly Girl Method, I made these mistakes several times. A shampoo would have the label “Sulfate Free” at the front, and then later, I would have a hard time dealing with dryness and would finally see a Sulfate listed in the ingredients. From my experience over time, I came to understand that when advertisers label “Sulfate Free” at the very front, they are referring to one of the harshest Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. However, this does not mean that the product is entirely free of Sulfates. On several occasions, I have found other drying Sulfates in the list, despite the “Sulfate Free” label.
Curly Girl-friendly ingredients to look for
In the Curly Girl Method, we avoid harsh Sulfates and drying Alcohols (they dehydrate the hair), Silicones, Waxes, and Mineral Oils (they build up). As replacements, we look for ingredients that are mild, moisturizing, and soluble for curly hair in order to minimize dryness and foster better moisture retention.
If you are following the Curly Girl Method like me, look for cleansers that are mild for curls, such as:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate or Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Slip is very helpful for detangling curls because it decreases friction. Silicones are used in traditional mainstream products to add slip and shine. The issue with Silicones is that they don’t penetrate the hair shaft to make it better and they also build up.
They are removable with Sulfates, but in turn, the frequent use of Sulfates dehydrates the hair. It becomes a vicious cycle. Soluble ingredients for lubrication, on the other hand, make the hair better over time. They also add shine and flexibility to curly hair. If you follow the Curly Girl Method like me, you can replace Silicones with soluble ingredients that are located near the top of the list, such as:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Behentrimonium Chloride
Dicetyldimonium Chloride
Distearyldimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium 55
Cetrimonium Bromide
I came to learn this helpful information from Wendy (a scientist) on the Hair Science-y Blog and Tonya Mckay here on NaturallyCurly.
Ingredient amounts in products
The Natural Haven Bloom Blog has helped me to understand the importance of ingredient concentrations in products. For example, just because a product is advertised with an “Argan Oil” label doesn’t mean that this product has high amounts of this oil. When ingredients are listed, they appear in descending order, calculated by either mass or volume.
As a result, when we read lists, we should always focus on the first five ingredients because they are the main ingredients (in higher amounts). A product that is labeled “Argan Oil” may well have some Argan oil included in the list, but the amount should be the most important thing to look for. If Argan oil is included near the end of the list, the amount is very small and insignificant.
If you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, relying only on front labels is likely to cause problems. Here I am sharing four steps that you can take to safeguard yourself:
Read ingredient lists very carefully;
Try a single new product at a time. This is helpful because if something unusual happens, you will know that the only difference in your routine is the brand-new product;
Patch test the product on your skin before using it for the first time, even if you can’t spot any ingredients that are harmful to you: Apply a small amount of the product on a patch of skin that is located on the inner, lower arm. Rub it in and allow it to dry. Avoid washing the area for at least 24 hours and then watch for signs of a reaction;
Observe closely how your scalp reacts after product application, even if the product has passed the first three steps above. If you notice a burning sensation, itching, redness, lumps or anything unusual on your scalp, you will know that this product isn’t suitable for you.
Always remember: If you happen to have a serious allergic reaction to a product, please seek medical attention immediately.
In summary, if you are looking for a product that is healthy for curls, focus on mild cleansers that won’t dehydrate your hair. Choose conditioners and styling products that have soluble ingredients for slip and elasticity. Reading ingredient lists is a good habit when caring for your curls and overall health. It also saves money and time. The more you practice, the easier it becomes.
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