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This is What Professionals Think About Hair Vitamins
This is What Professionals Think About Hair Vitamins
Dr. Phoenyx Austin recocommends a protein-rich diet.

You’ve probably seen promotions for hair growth vitamins, gummies, and even elixirs and might have wondered if these products can help you achieve your hair goals. NaturallyCurly consulted six experts to understand what professionals think about hair vitamins, whether or not they work, and what you should know before trying them.

What do the experts think about hair vitamins?

The experts agree that hair vitamins can promote hair health, including strengthening hair and reducing breakage, by addressing vitamin deficiencies. Several mentioned biotin as a helpful vitamin that can promote hair health by increasing elasticity and reducing dryness. William Yates, M.D., a hair loss specialist,  says, “Vitamin supplements are effective if someone has a deficiency. Taking biotin or other vitamins typically found in ‘hair vitamins’ certainly won’t hurt you because they are water soluble [meaning they are not stored in your body.]” He also noted that “A vitamin D deficiency can contribute to hair loss and you should definitely supplement at a dose recommended by your physician.”

Deborah O’Donohue, a registered dietician, suggested taking vitamins that contain Iron, “as frequently thinning hair or hair loss [can be] a result of low Iron status” in addition to Biotin and Vitamin D.

Addressing protein deficiencies can improve hair health as well. Robert Nettles, M.D., of Stop and reGrow, says that, “Separate from vitamins, the No. 1 factor we see in our clinic which causes thin and breaking hair in women is lack of protein.”

Furthermore, Phoenyx Austin, M.D., a certified nutrition specialist and creator of Beauty Protein, emphasizes a protein-rich diet because “not getting ample protein in your diet will make it very difficult to grow healthy, stronger, and longer hair – even if you take hair vitamins!”

Beyond addressing vitamin and protein deficiencies, Dr. Austin told us that your diet and exercise affect your hair health, as “how you look on the outside is a direct reflection of how healthy and nourished your body is on the inside.” How you treat your hair on a daily basis is also important according to Chidimma Kalu, M.D., a postdoctoral research fellow at City of Hope National Medical Center. She mentions that “Excessive heat styling and chemical processing are drying and damaging to the hair after long periods of time, leaving the ends of your hair susceptible to breakage.”

This is What Professionals Think About Hair Vitamins

Will hair vitamins help your hair grow faster?

Unfortunately, the answer from most of the professionals is “no.” Licensed cosmetologist and trichologist Sophia Emmanuel Powell says, “Taking hair vitamins will not make your hair grow faster because each individual follicle on your head goes through a natural cycle of hair growth, resting and shedding.  Hair grows about a half an inch a month.  Taking hair vitamins can help enhance the strength and health of the hair, but there is nothing you can do to speed up the growth process.”

There are factors that can slow down hair growth, such as stress, poor nutrition, and diet. In this case, hair vitamins can help energize hair follicles so hair growth is not delayed. Dr. Kalu believes that the “majority of people who notice a significant, positive difference after starting a hair vitamin will have had some kind of scalp, skin, or nail issue beforehand. Those without vitamin deficiencies might notice a difference in the thickness of their hair, for example. That being said, many people will note absolutely no change at all.” Dr. Yates sums it up saying, “Realistically, vitamin supplements will not regrow your hair unless you have a deficiency.”

What you should know before trying hair vitamins

Powell tells her clients “not to expect fast hair growth because it is stressful and disappointing when they do not see the length they were expecting.” She cautions consumers to be wary of claims such as, “stop hair loss now” or get “longer hair in three months.” Instead, she says, “Look for studies or science-based materials that prove the ingredients do what they promise and keep in mind vitamins that work for one person may not work for another person.”

Dr. Kalu advises consumers to consult their doctors before starting hair vitamins because “combining medications may result in dangerous side effects. Provided that there is no contraindication to trying these supplements, anyone who wants to try them can do so safely, see how the supplements affect them, and make sure to pay attention to potential side effects (e.g., allergic reactions, rash, worsening acne, headaches etc.”>.”

Overall, the experts believe that while there is no miracle pill that can make your hair grow faster, taking hair vitamins can play an important role in your hair’s health.

Have you taken hair vitamins? Share your experiences in the comments section below!

How to React When a Stranger Touches Your Hair
Photo Courtesy of Simply Cyn
At some point in our lives most naturally curly women have had someone unexpectedly start touching our hair. There is a healthy debate around the question of whether it’s okay for strangers to touch naturally curly hair. In fact, “Can I touch it?” was identified as the most annoying and frequently asked question that the Naturally Curly community gets. There is a full spectrum of reactions from, “No, you absolutely cannot touch my hair” to “Yes, but ask first” to “Go right ahead!” Aside from my hairstylists, there is only a handful of people I am comfortable with touching my hair, so I am more in Solange’s “Don’t Touch My Hair” camp. 

Recently I was on a flight sitting in a middle seat when a flight attendant suddenly reached over and tugged on my hair. I thought it was bizarre and quite annoying because I spend a lot of time caring for my curls. The encounter left me unsettled, mostly because I wished that I had had a different response other than smiling to hide my discomfort. To that end, I want to be more prepared with a response the next time this situation inevitably happens. Here are some perfectly acceptable reactions when someone unexpectedly touches your hair.

Play it cool

There are many possible reactions to have if someone touches your hair, starting with playing it cool. If the person asks first and it doesn’t bother you, you can smile and show them where and how (gently”> to touch your hair, so they don’t mess up your curls. If it does bother you, you can wear a “Don’t touch my hair” pin everywhere. Point to that pin. Problem solved.

If the person doesn’t have the courtesy to ask first, you can step back to remove yourself from his or her reach or smile and put your hand in between his or her hand and your hair. You can get your point across without having to say anything.

Be firm

When playing it cool is not working for you, be a bit firmer in your reaction. If the person asks before touching your hair, you can simply say that it would make you uncomfortable. If that person lacks the perception to understand that invading a stranger’s space could cause discomfort, tell him or her. Don’t be nervous about the awkwardness; that person created the situation, not you.

If the person doesn’t ask first, say, “Please don’t touch my hair.” You’re still being courteous but it will get your point across.

Be aggressive

If today is just not the day for you, don’t be afraid to let your true feelings show. If the person asks before attempting to touch your hair, put the discomfort back on her. Say, “Only if I can touch your hair first.” It will become evident how strange it is to do such a thing. Otherwise, you can just say, “No” and turn away. It’s simple and effective. You don’t need to feel like you’re being rude, because you don’t owe this stranger anything.

If the person doesn’t ask first, and you’re just not in the mood, all bets are off. The times when I have felt most uncomfortable with a stranger touching my hair, I have had visions of grabbing a spray bottle, and spraying the offending stranger like you would a misbehaving cat until he steps away from my curls. If that person is going to treat me like a pet, I should be able to do the same. Unfortunately, I don’t usually have spray bottles handy, so another perfectly fine reaction would be to just start messing up that person’s hair too. They will be shocked by how creepy it is and hopefully back off.

At the end of the day, any reaction you have to someone unexpectedly touching your hair is perfectly acceptable. It’s your hair, so you are the one who decides whose hands can touch it or not!

Has anyone ever touched your hair unexpectedly? How did you react?

Are "Natural" Ingredients Just a Trend, or Are They Here to Stay?
Photo Courtesy of Natalie Live
If I had to summarize my curly hair journey from the start, I would have said that I simply wanted products that moisturize my hair and control frizz at a manageable price. As I have become more educated about products, I would add that I want products that are more natural and free from harmful chemicals. It still surprises me that the FDA does not “require cosmetic products and ingredients, other than color additives, to have FDA approval before they go on the market.” As a community, we are becoming very knowledgeable about what ingredients to look for and what to avoid. So despite this lack of regulation, manufacturers are increasingly creating more natural products in response to their customers’ desire for better ingredients, and here’s why I think they won’t be slowing down.

What is considered to be a trend?

Merriam-Webster defines trend in two contradictory ways. The first definition is, “a general movement,” which can be applied to things such as the idea that the growing naturally curly community is a movement based on a long term change in mindset. The second definition is, “a current style or preference,” which can be applied to short-lived sensations such as last year’s Instagram bun dropping fad. I would argue that the curly community’s desire for natural ingredients falls under the first definition; it is here to stay rather than just a fleeting desire that we’ll forsake. 

Indications that natural ingredients are here to stay

In some respects, the only true way to know if something is a trend or not is to look back over time to see what had permanence and what faded. However, there is plenty of evidence that indicates we are amid an enduring change in the beauty industry. A “Green Beauty Barometer” survey of over 1,000 women conducted by Kari Gran, a natural skin care and makeup company, found that “39% of women claim they will buy more all-natural beauty products in the next two years than they currently do.” In addition, nearly half of the women surveyed claimed it was important for their hair products to be all natural.

In addition to surveys that indicate our preferences shifting, there has been an increasing number of women who are embracing DIY natural ingredient products. Not only are naturally curly women willing to spend sometimes hours on wash day cleansing, moisturizing, and styling their hair, many have invested time in making their own products. Apple cider vinegar rinses and flax seed gel are two examples of DIY solutions that are natural and work well.

One of the most exciting things for me has been seeing the emergence of so many great indie hair brands with a natural ingredient focus. Popular brands such as SheaMoisture lead all of their collection names with their natural ingredients, and many other brands are following suit. More broadly, consumers are becoming more conscious of ingredients and making their purchasing decisions based on what’s in a product as well as what it can do. This extends beyond haircare to cosmetics, personal care, food, and household products as seen by the success of companies such as Whole Foods and The Honest Company.

How long will we care about natural ingredients?

Beyond the evidence that natural ingredients are here to stay, there are broader industry changes that indicate that we’ll care about natural ingredients for a long time. As emerging brands have been providing customers with great products with premium ingredients, larger industry leaders have taken note. We are starting to see many large brands incorporate and highlight natural ingredients such as coconut oil and argan oil. L’Oreal’s acquisition of Carol’s Daughter and Clorox’s acquisition of Burt’s Bees nearly a decade ago are among some of the indications that beauty industry behemoths view natural products as a long term growth vehicle.

These large companies can put marketing dollars behind products with natural ingredients and seeing more products on shelves will continue to raise awareness about the importance of natural ingredients. In a virtuous cycle, curly veterans and new naturals will continue to demand products with great ingredients, and I believe companies will increasingly cater to that in the future. Our beloved products are here to stay and are likely to get even better as companies innovate using an even wider variety of natural ingredients.

Do you think natural ingredients are here to stay, or are a fad? Let us know in the comments!

5 Reasons Why Natural Hair at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is a Big Deal
PHOTO BY @HERIETHPAUL

In 2015, Maria Borges made waves in the fashion world by wearing her naturally curly Type 4a hair in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. This year is even more exciting, as she is joined by models Herieth Paul and Jourdana Phillips who also wore their hair naturally curly. The models proudly showed off their natural hair on Instagram at the filming of the show, and tonight millions of people around the world will see natural hair on the main stage. Here are five reasons why this was a major deal.

  1. A large brand is embracing diversity in a very conspicuous way

The fashion world still has a long way to go in terms of casting diverse models. In fact, less than 25% of models cast in the Fall 2016 season were people of color. While brands may have started to include a more diverse range of models, there is a big difference in presenting diverse models styled in a Euro-centric way (e.g., straight wigs and extensions”> versus giving them the license to wear their hair naturally. I applaud Victoria’s Secret for not only embracing diverse models, but also embracing diverse hairstyles this year.

  1. Natural hair is becoming more visible on the world stage

Victoria’s Secret has showcased some of the most well-known models in the last two decades including Tyra Banks, Gisele Bündchen, and Heidi Klum. The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is a premier fashion show considered by models such as Kendall Jenner to be a “dream come true.” By wearing their hair naturally during such an important show, Maria Borges, Herieth Paul, and Jourdana Phillips have made a striking statement to the world.

  1. We are making strides towards more acceptance of natural hair in the workplace

There has been a lot of discussion about wearing natural hair in the workplace, with some women even experiencing discrimination due to their hair styles. Many organizations and people still view wearing curls or natural hair in the workplace and at school as unprofessional, which is very discouraging. It took me a long time to feel comfortable wearing my natural curls at work in corporate America, so I find it empowering that these three models could wear their natural hair in their place of work, without being forced to conform to standards of beauty that don’t represent them.

  1. These models are challenging the standards of what is considered beautiful

When people think of Victoria’s Secret they typically think of long, flowing “beachy waves.” Growing up I wouldn’t have been able to name one Victoria’s Secret model who had curly hair like me. These three models have shown that beauty comes in many forms and you don’t have to have straight hair or loose waves to be considered beautiful. While we already knew that hair does not have to be long or straight to be sexy, it’s nice to see mainstream brands catching up.

  1. They had the confidence to rock a TWA, and looked incredible while they did it

When I did a big chop seven years ago, I was terribly nervous because it brought back bad memories of being asked if I was a boy when I was a child with super short hair. I don’t think I am alone in being incredibly encouraged by these models rocking their TWAs in a major fashion show. So much of our appearance is tied to our hair, and I am so appreciative of having these very visible examples for myself and the girls in my family.

This industry still has a long way to go, but seeing models confidently rock their natural hair for a mainstream brand is an important and positive step.

What are your thoughts on natural hair at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show this year? Let us know in the comments!

Is Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate a Sulfate? Here’s What You Need to Know

More and more consumers are interested in what ingredients are in their beauty products, as almost 60% of adult women “read beauty product ingredients prior to purchase.” Women with textured hair are particularly on the lookout for sulfates, whether they follow the Curly Girl method or not. We are lucky that there are so many products available now that are, “sulfate free,” but what about sulfate alternatives? Here’s what you need to know about a common sulfate alternative ingredient found in cleansers, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate.

What is Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate?

NaturallyCurly asked Aisha Crump, a chemical engineer and the founder and CEO of Honey Baby Naturals, to draw on her expertise from many years in the beauty business to help us understand Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate. She says, “Consumers are always reading labels and looking for things we know aren’t good for our hair such as parabens and surfactants. We see [that] a product is sulfate free per the marketing, but then you spot an ingredient that sounds like a sulfate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate.” Without a deep knowledge of ingredients, it can be very hard to tell, but while Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate may sound like a sulfate, it is not.

According to Crump, DLS “is a cleansing agent also known as a surfactant but [it] is not considered a sulfate. It is a common chemical found in many ‘greener’ or more natural formulas that is used to replace the harsher sulfates because of its non-irritating yet effective properties. It is found in many shampoo and cleansing formulas and is used for its degreasing, foaming, and emulsifying benefits. It is known to be extremely gentle to the skin and hair even at higher concentrations.”

Should I avoid this ingredient?

Now that we know that DLS isn’t a sulfate, how do we know if we should steer clear of this ingredient or not? Crump says that, “Shampoos are so important for textured hair because they remove build up and keep the scalp clean to promote growth.” Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate will cleanse the hair, but “will not strip the moisture from hair the way harsh sulfates do.”

If you want to understand the science behind why DLS is a gentler alternative to sulfates, Crump offers this explanation: “Sulfates are harsh and irritating in part because they are small molecules that penetrate into the skin while Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate is a large molecule that can’t penetrate into the scalp and skin.” Going a little deeper, she says, “It is considered an anionic surfactant, meaning it has a negative charge. The safety and mildness of this surfactant is due to the removal of the sulfate ion and replacing it with a sulfonated ester. The result is an effective cleanser that is safer and less irritating to the skin, hair, and scalp.”

In short, Aisha Crump believes, “You can use your favorite Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate/ “sulfate free” shampoo with confidence and enjoy the results.”

What products include it and what products don’t?

If you still like to have a little lather in your sulfate free cleansers, there are many products that contain Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate. A good choice for fine or fragile hair is Kevin Murphy Angel Wash. Ouidad Color Sense Color Preserving Shampoo is a great cleanser for color-treated hair. Finally, Briogeo Rosarco Reparative Shampoo uses a coconut derived version of DLS bolstered by rosehip, argan, and coconut oil to nourish hair.

There are many great sulfate free cleansing options that don’t contain Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, but I’ll highlight three that were Naturally Curly 2016 Editor’s Choice winners. Honey Baby Naturals Honeychild Moisture & Scalp Balance Gentle Shampoo uses two “green” surfactants to replace sulfates. I have used it to cleanse my nine-year-old sister’s 4c hair, but also find it to be an excellent option for my 3b hair. Alikay Naturals Moisturizing Black Soap shampoo is another option with a unique pointed nozzle to distribute the product directly to the scalp. Lastly, DevaCurl’s No-Poo Decadence Zero Lather Ultra Moisturizing Milk Cleanser was also a Best of the Best 2016 Winner, and is a personal favorite when I need an extra moisturizing cleanser.

What are some ingredients that you aim to avoid? Let us know in the comments!

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WEN Hair Loss Lawsuit: What We Really Want to Know
PICTURED: WEN CLEANSING CONDITIONER

You have probably seen the ubiquitous infomercials for WEN by Chaz Dean products and may have heard about the customer complaints of hair loss caused by their cleansing conditioners. The latest news in a saga that began in 2014 and continued with a FDA investigation this summer is that WEN and its marketing company, Guthy Renker, have reached a preliminary settlement for $26.3 million in a class-action lawsuit.

What should I know about the case?

Despite the many positive reviews of its products, WEN has been plagued by controversy in the last few years. The FDA has received “127 adverse event reports directly from consumers about WEN… the largest number of reports ever associated with any cosmetic hair cleansing product.” Complaints claimed that WEN’s cleansing conditioners caused adverse events such as, “hair loss, hair breakage, balding, itching, and rash.” In July of this year, the FDA opened an investigation into these reports and also discovered “21,000 complaints reported directly to Chaz Dean and Guthy Renker”

The FDA investigation followed smaller class-action lawsuits against WEN beginning in 2014 and a larger lawsuit brought by over 200 women in 40 states. CBS Local news reported that a federal judge gave preliminary approval to a $26.3 million settlement. Wen made a statement that their products are safe and they decided to settle rather than undergo costly litigation. Despite the FDA investigation and lawsuits, WEN products are still being sold by the company and its retailers. 

What we really wanted to know

One of the elements of the case that have caused mixed reactions is whether the WEN products can actually be blamed for hair loss, particularly due to clogged pores in the scalp. In a Twitter response to a concerned customer on October 24, 2016, the company claimed that “there’s no scientific evidence to suggest that there is a problem with WEN.” Even the FDA states that they “don’t have enough information to determine what caused the adverse reactions.”

Can a cleansing conditioner really cause hair loss?

NaturallyCurly reached out to two scientists to shed some light on attorney Amy Davis’s claim that using WEN’s cleansing conditioner is “like using lotion to wash your hair.’ This makes it harder to rinse out, which leads to build-up that can clog your hair follicles, halting hair growth and eventually causing hair loss.” Unfortunately, the jury is still out on this claim.

What do the scientists say?

Erica Douglas, a formulating cosmetic chemist and founder of SisterScientist and mSeed Group, states, “Hair loss is a common symptom of folliculitis: inflammation of the follicle caused by bacteria or fungus. However, hair loss from non-infectious folliculitis (which is usually caused by the clogging of follicles from oil and/or sebum”> is more likely to cause hair thinning than dramatic hair loss.” She believes, “It’s not impossible for non-infectious folliculitis to cause severe hair loss, but would most likely require extreme conditions and a very long period of time without basic or traditional cleansing methods to create a perfect storm for extreme hair loss to occur.” She assumes that, “the plaintiffs would have to prove that enough build up occurred leading to infectious folliculitis.”

Maryam Ali, who holds a Ph.D. in Biomedical Engineering from the University of Texas at Austin and a BA in Chemical Engineering from CalTech, said it was hard to conclusively state whether build up can cause excess sebum and clogged pores leading to hair loss. There is very limited evidence that excess sebum or conditioner could clog pores resulting in high levels of an enzyme (5-alpha reductase”> that is related to hair growth. She noted research from the National Center for Biotechnology Information that indicates “a fraction of the population” who is already “susceptible to androgenic alopecia” might experience hair loss from an increase in this enzyme. She summarizes her thoughts on the topic saying that without more concrete scientific research, any connections between clogged follicles and hair loss are hypotheses at best.

While it’s still hard to tell if and how WEN products could be causing hair loss, it will be interesting to see how this lawsuit and FDA investigation plays out.

What are your thoughts on the WEN class-action lawsuit? Let us know in the comments!