By Tonya McKay · Published May 10, 2018

Pictured: [Obia Shampoo Bar](https://shop.naturallycurly.com/obia-naturals-coconut-shea-shampoo-bar/”>

Shampoo bars made of “all natural” ingredients are all the rage in the hair- and skin-care markets. These handmade soaps and shampoo bars are especially gaining popularity in the curly-hair community because they tend to be free of sulfates and silicones and are made from moisturizing oils and gentle cleansers.

Many people report that they are extremely pleased with the results they are getting, citing benefits such as increased softness, better curl formation and, in some cases, elimination of the need to use conditioner.

However, not all users have had such pleasant experiences, and there is some confusion over what the advantage is of shampoo bars over traditional shampoos or low-sulfate or sulfate-free cleansers. There is also some debate about whether the shampoo bars should be followed up with a vinegar rinse, a conditioner, or both.

As usually do, I will delve into the basic chemistry of shampoo bars to discover what answers lie beneath the surface.

What is a Shampoo Bar?

Soap molecules used in shampoo bars are similar to some of the more familiar hair cleansers such as sodium lauryl sulfate in that they are anionic (negatively charged”> surfactants. The difference is that the polar head group of the molecule is a carboxylate, rather than a sulfate (R-COO-Na+ vs. R-OSO3-Na+”>, which results in a milder surfactant. They are formed by reacting a fat (triglyceride”> with a strong base, either sodium hydroxide (lye”> or potassium hydroxide (potash”>, in a process called saponification. In this reaction, the fatty acids are cleaved from the triglyceride backbone and in a two-step chemical reaction soap molecules are formed, along with water and glycerin. The amount of strong base needed is calculated based upon published saponification values for the fats being used in the process. Although the source of fats is natural, there is still a chemical reaction and modification that must be done to get a useful derivative.

Typically, an excess of oils is added to the mixture prior to the mixing of fats and base. This provides two benefits:

1. The lye is completely consumed in the chemical reaction, which makes certain the final product doesn’t burn or irritate skin or damage hair.

2. The excess oils act as “superfatting” agents in the shampoo bar, which contribute to mildness and an overall luxurious feel to the soap. These oils act as moisturizing and conditioning agents, much as they would in a regular shampoo or conditioner.

Schematic of the chemical reaction for soap making (saponification”>.

Most handmade soap makers use a “cold process,” where the main source of heat used is from the exothermic reaction itself (unless the oils or fats need to be pre-melted”>. The lye or potash is added slowly to water, which quickly becomes hot. It is set aside for a few minutes to cool slightly while the oils are mixed separately. The basic solution is then mixed with oils and stirred until it begins to thicken. Essential oils and colorants can be added at this time, and then the soap is poured into molds. After it cools for a few hours, it can be removed carefully from the molds and cut into bars if needed. These individual shampoo bars are then covered and left to “cure” on racks for a few weeks. This ensures that all of the lye is gone and that the soap is hard.

You may note that in this process, glycerin, a byproduct of the saponification reaction, is left to add humectant and lubricative properties to the soap. It is important to be aware of this because it can potentially be problematic for those with colored hair, especially if the hair was colored recently, if temporary dye was used or the if hair color was heavy in red dye. The humectant properties of glycerin can be a boon or curse for curly hair also, depending upon the hair type, condition of the hair, and environment in which the product user lives.

Soaps are classified as gentle cleaners due to being less efficient at removing oil from the hair when compared to some of the synthetic surfactants. This is a beneficial property in a cleanser for those of us with hair already prone to being dry. The excess oils in a superfatted soap act as emollients and moisturizers to replace oils removed from the hair during the cleansing process. Curly hair doesn’t typically have much oil from the scalp distributed down the hair shaft in the first place, so it needs this extra moisture added in a cleansing routine.

The properties of any particular soap may vary greatly, depending upon which oil or combination of oils is used to make it. Coconut oil is admired for its luxurious, foamy texture. Olive oil (castile soap”> is considered to be unparalleled for skin with any types of eczema or psoriasis problems and is very gentle with hair. Evening primrose oil and calendula oil, while expensive, can also add healing and moisturizing properties to the soap. Jojoba oil is very similar in composition to human sebum, so it is great at dissolving old sebum, cleansing the scalp gently and replacing some of the natural oils. Shea butter is prized for being an excellent moisturizer, and soaps with this ingredient included can leave the hair and skin feeling soft.

The Drawbacks of Shampoo Bars

When used in soft water, soap can generate a nice lather and leave hair feeling very soft and clean. In fact, in really soft water and after using an extremely moisturizing soap, the soft and slippery texture of our skin and hair can feel so foreign to us that we may continue rinsing repeatedly in an attempt to remove the perceived residue.

Unfortunately, soap’s effectiveness is significantly reduced when used in hard or acidic water. The reason for this is that the carboxylate group on the soap molecule interacts preferentially with the metallic ions that are so prevalent in hard water (usually calcium, iron, and/or magnesium”>. The result is the formation of a precipitate, which leaves an insoluble film on whatever surface comes into contact with it, including the hair. This film can be very difficult to remove and leaves the hair dull, lifeless, tangled, and dry. The soap lathers less and cleanses less effectively for the same reason: two soap molecules are removed from action by each magnesium or calcium ion when the complex is precipitated from the solution, so there is less soap available for cleansing. That squeaky clean feeling you may get after using a bar soap is actually the feel of organic/mineral deposits on your hair shaft. This deposit left on the hair can also attract dirt, making hair greasy and dirty. This problem was one of several driving forces for the development of synthetic surfactants such as sodium laurel sulfate.

Another potential hazard of the shampoo bars and soaps is that they typically have a pH in the 8 to 9 range, which is substantially more basic than the natural level for hair. This can result in a temporary breakage of disulfide bonds in the keratin protein of the hair, which can disrupt curl formation and cuticle structure. The basic environment softens the hair, swells it, and leaves it with a ruffled cuticle. This rough surface is not only a source of potentially damaging entanglements and breakage, but also is unattractive because it reduces the shine and gloss of hair tremendously. Swelling of the hair also enables larger colorant molecules to escape, which can shorten the lifetime of a coloring application.

Fortunately, there are a few things you can do to counteract these two effects. Some soap makers put various additives in their soaps that help to keep the soap molecules from binding with hard water metals (sodium silicate, sodium carbonate, borax”>. However, in the “all-natural” products this is not likely, so it is important to take some steps after shampooing. Rinsing with a mildly acidic solution will help dissolve the soap scum deposit from your hair, shrink the hair shaft diameter, flatten the cuticle and increase the shine and smoothness of your hair. White vinegar, apple cider vinegar, or dissolved citric acid or vitamin C (ascorbic acid”> all have sufficiently low pH to help return hair to its preferred pH pf approximately 4-5. Using a clarifying shampoo with EDTA in it can also help remove build up, but would also involve use of a more harsh surfactant, so might be best done only occasionally.

You can also try washing your hair in bottled, purified water when you use your soap, which would make this step necessary less often. Another option is getting a showerhead filter, which is generally less expensive than a whole-house water softener. Even if you take these steps, it is wise to do a mild acidic rinse, due to the basic properties of the soap. Also, dirt on your hair can have minerals in it, which can then create soap scum, so you can’t avoid the need for the low pH rinse entirely.

Depending upon the composition of the soap you are using, the condition of your hair, and the type of water you have, you may find you need to use less conditioner than when you use other cleansers. Experimentation will help you figure out what helps your hair look and feel its best.

How can I incorporate shampoo bars into my hair care routine?

• Look for one with the plant-derived oils which you prefer, or buy a few bars and try different recipes.
• Lather the bar in your hand, not on your head. Your hair is as fragile as a cashmere sweater, and needs very careful handling at all times.
• Use soft water to wash your hair with soap bars whenever possible.
• Follow up with a mildly acidic rinse to restore the natural pH of your hair and to impart that shiny, glossy surface we all desire.
• Use detangler or conditioner to your own personal tastes. In other words, if you still feel you need it, go ahead! I personally wouldn’t skip that step unless my hair looked weighed down or limp.
• Give it a few tries. I have read that it can take some time for your scalp and hair to adjust, just as it often does when you go to a low shampoo or shampoo free routine.
• Report your results to us!

I plan to head to my local health food store soon for some shampoo bars, or maybe don my chemist gear and make some myself!

Additional reading about pH and hair is available here.

By Tonya McKay · Published October 10, 2017

PICTURED: @CURLY_CANDACE

As we head into springtime, many curlies apprehensively anticipate the return of humidity — and frizz.

Weather is a constant variable that can toss a kink into the best of hair days. Who among us hasn’t left the house with perfectly coiffed curls, only to step out into a hot, sticky afternoon or a damp, foggy morning and see our hair lose all recognizable shape, inflate to twice its normal size and develop the texture of a piece of steel wool?

Wouldn’t it be spectacular if there was some crystal ball that could tell us each morning what the weather patterns would be and what exact products to use that would enable us to circumvent this seemingly unavoidable hair disaster? Although that might not be realistic, there are some clues available to us in the morning weather report or on NaturallyCurly’s Frizz Forecast. Learning some basic facts about humidity, humectants and the dew point can arm you with the knowledge you need to select the right types of products to keep your curls looking their best, whether the weather is bone dry or warm and muggy.

What is humidity?

I am neither a meteorologist nor an expert in the thermodynamics of gaseous mixtures, but I am going to tackle this topic even though it makes my brain hurt. Water coexists in the atmosphere with the gaseous mixture (primarily oxygen and nitrogen”> that makes up our air. We all are aware of the fluctuating levels of moisture in our air — especially those of us living here in the great southern swamplands of the United States.

A description of the moisture content in the air can be expressed using different terms and based upon various calculations. The two most familiar to us are relative humidity and dew point, which are both typically disclosed in our local daily weather report. Even armed with all this information, it can be confusing for one to understand just exactly how humid it is.

Relative humidity is key

Relative humidity expresses the relationship between the vapor pressure or vapor density (g/m3″> of the water in the air at a specific temperature versus the saturated vapor pressure of water at that temperature.

RH = (actual H2O vapor pressure/saturated H2O vapor pressure”> x 100

The saturated vapor pressure for water changes substantially with temperature. So as the temperature increases or decreases, the value for relative humidity changes, even if the overall water content in the air remains unchanged.

Example: We have an actual vapor density of 6.6 g/m3, and a temperature of 86°F. The saturated vapor density for water at this temperature is approximately 30.4 g/m3. This gives a relative humidity of approximately 21.7 percent. If the temperature increases to 98.6, the saturated vapor density increases to 44 g/m3, and the relative humidity becomes 15 percent. Conversely, if the temperature were to decrease substantially to 55°F, the saturated water density decreases to 11.35, and the RH increases to a value of 50 percent! If the temperature is gradually decreased to approximately 37°F, the relative humidity approaches 100 percent.

(See this site for a great chart and all sorts of additional information”>.

What is the Dew Point?

Oxygen and nitrogen are always gases at the temperatures found in our atmosphere, and the molecules bounce around in the air exhibiting ideal gas behavior (conforming to certain thermodynamic laws”>. Water, with its relatively high boiling point, exists in all of its phases at our atmospheric temperatures. Primarily, in our atmosphere, it is constantly exchanging between its liquid state and its gaseous state. One way of thinking about dew point is that it is the temperature at which the number of gaseous water molecules being formed is equal to the number of liquid water molecules being formed (Evaporation rate = condensation rate”>. When the temperature reaches the dew point, the relative humidity is 100 percent. If the temperature decreases below the dew point, water must condense out of the air, and fog, dew, or clouds are formed.

We can see by a quick review of our previous example that had we chosen a greater value for our actual water density (meaning a higher level of water in the air”>, our relative humidity values would all have been higher, and our dew point would also be shifted to a higher value.

So we can conclude that a higher value for our dew point necessarily means a higher concentration of water vapor in the atmosphere, and a lower dew point means less moisture is in the air.

A common question among curlies is at which dew points are humectants helpful and desirable, and at which dew points are they perhaps harmful and undesirable? Before answering that question, let’s review humectants and touch on “anti-humectants” as well.

What are Humectants?

We have spent significant time in the past discussing the chemical and physical nature of humectants and their relevance to the health and beauty of curly hair. To summarize quickly, humectants are molecules that possess atoms and groups of atoms that attract and bind water to themselves. They can have benefits and drawbacks for curly hair, and their performance is often very dependent upon the amount of moisture in the environment. This variable performance is due to the driving force in nature to reach and maintain a state of equilibrium.

Dry hair, placed in a wet, humid environment, quickly absorbs water from the air. Unprotected hair can quickly lose all of its internal moisture and become very dry in an arid environment. Humectants applied to the hair draw water to themselves from whichever source is greater — the atmosphere or the hair.

For more in-depth information on this topic, read this article.

What is an Anti-humectant?

An ingredient may be called an anti-humectant if it fulfills several requirements. First, it must not be hygroscopic, meaning it must not possess molecular traits that cause it to attract water molecules to itself. Second, it must be water repellent, which necessarily means insoluble in water. This property allows it to lock out or prevent the intrusion of moisture into the hair from a humid environment. Additionally, these ingredients typically coat, flatten, and seal the external cuticle layer of the hair strands. The anti-humectant ingredient will most likely be higher on the list of ingredients, and may be problematic for those on a shampoo free routine.

In many formulations, the ingredients used for this anti-humectant task are silicones. This is because they not only perform the anti-humectant duties in a superior manner, but they also provide excellent lubrication of the hair and add a high degree of gloss (shine”>. Esters (such as isopropyl palmitate”> are another category of ingredient used for their water-resistant properties in products designed to function well in high humidity climates. There are also many natural ingredients that work well for this purpose, such as hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax, and plant triglycerides such as coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil, and shea butter. I have included the ingredient lists for a couple of different hair pomades and anti-humectant products that I found interesting.

Hair Pomade by John Masters Organics

Ingredients: Extra virgin olive oil, organic beeswax, mango butter, babassu oil, jojoba, wheat germ oil, pure essential oils of bay laurel, cedar atlas, fir balsam and massoia, vitamins A, C & E. Certified Organic Ingredients.

Aveda Brilliant Anti-Humectant Pomade

Ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride; Isopropyl Palmitate; C18-36 Acid Triglyceride; Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1; Bis-Diglyceryl Polacyladipate-2; Castor (Ricinus Communis”> Oil; Phenyl Trimethicone; Cyclomethicone; Fragrance (Parfum”>; Glyceryl Laurate; Rice (Oryza Sativa”> Bran Oil

How to style curly hair, depending on the dew point

It would be great if there were a magical mathematical formula to tell you exactly which ingredients to use in which temperature and humidity conditions. The best I can do is provide you with some loose recommendations on that topic. As always, you will need to do some experimentation with your own hair to find the combination of conditions and product that give the results you prefer.

Dew points below 35°F

If the dew point is below 35°F or so, the moisture content in the air is sufficiently low that a humectant applied to your hair might be irresistibly drawn to the moisture in your hair and make every attempt to steal it from you (by drawing it out of your hair and binding it to itself”>. This can result in dry, fly-away hair, split ends, and broken strands. This effect can often be compensated for by using plenty of moisturizing products, not over-drying your hair (leave it somewhat moist after washing”>, and layering leave-in conditioners with humectant-containing styling product.

Dew points from 35°F to 60°F

Curly hair seems to really thrive in moderate climactic conditions, and dew point ranges of approximately 35°F to 50°F seem to be optimal. In this type of weather, most curlies find that they can get really pleasant results by using products that contain some humectants. There is just enough moisture in the air that the humectants can grab a little from the environment, which can enhance the curl and create a bouncy feeling to the hair.

Dew points of 60°F or above

When the dew point for your area is at 60°F or above, it might be a good idea to apply some product with anti-humectant properties. These products will seal the hair shaft, flatten the cuticle and prevent atmospheric moisture from absorbing into the interior of your strands. Most of these products will contain ingredients that are water insoluble. However, many of these products contain ingredients which are easily removed with an extremely mild shampoo or perhaps even a thorough conditioner wash.

The key to having the best curls in any weather is to have extremely well-hydrated and moisturized hair. This will protect your hair from losing too much moisture in dry weather, and it will prevent your hair from absorbing excess moisture in humid conditions. Another important factor is the overall condition of your hair. Hair that is damaged will necessarily be more porous, and thus more susceptible to climactic conditions. Smooth strands with a sealed, flat cuticle layer will be naturally more impervious to atmospheric conditions as well.

By Tonya McKay · Published October 10, 2017

What is a polyquat?

Polyquaternium is a word used to describe a category of materials used in cosmetic formulas. They are polymers (large molecules made up of repeating units of the same base block or blocks, called monomers”> that have positively-charged sites repeating along the length of their structure in a variety of configurations. They are often used as conditioning ingredients or as ones that enhance curl or give hold to spiked styles.

You may recall that the positively-charged sites along the length of polyquats are attracted to negatively-charged sites on hair and skin, which allow them to deposit onto the surface and cling to it pretty tenaciously. In hair, the quantity of these negative sites increases with damage from sun, heat, and chemical processing, with the result that polyquat conditioning and styling agents can attach to many sites on the surface of damaged hair. The more damaged the cuticle is, and the higher the charge density of the polymer, the stronger the association will be between the polymer and the hair, resulting in very effective conditioning and curl retention. However, this can also make some polyquats very difficult to remove from the surface of hair, and in some cases can lead to buildup and negative effects.

What makes PQ-69 special?

Limitations in the properties of various iterations of vinyl acetate, acrylates/acrylate copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidone have long challenged formulators to produce combinations that provide sufficient hold without flaking, that can maintain curl retention in high heat and humidity conditions, and that are easily removable from the hair. For this reason, synthetic polymer chemists strive to produce new polymers with properties that exceed those currently in use. Polyquaternium-69 is one such polymer, and it is exceptional in that it conquers many of the problems inherent in the more traditionally-used polymeric systems used to provide hold in hair gels and mousses. Each of the four components in this tetra-polymer was selected for the specific properties it would impart to the final performance. It provides an ultra-strong, yet more durable and lasting hold, as well as a number of other benefits.

For those interested in the specific chemical structure of polyquaternium-69, it is a tetrapolymer of vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA”> and the quaternized, alkylated DMAPMA, from which it derives its cationic nature. Its structure can be seen here.

Improved removability

Compared to other polyquats, PQ-69 has a relatively low number of cationic (positively-charged”> sites, and like the other polyquats, it is water soluble with fewer ionic sites per molecule. The polymer does not adhere as tightly to the surface of the hair, which means it is suitable for all types of hair and should be easily removable with most methods of cleansing. Water-only or vinegar-only methods may not be sufficient.

Humidity resistance

Despite its ionic nature and solubility in water, the hydrophobically modified portion of this polymer means that PQ-69 acts as a water-repellant, hydrophobic layer on the hair surface. This enables it to prevent moisture absorption from the air, so it can exhibit amazing curl retention, even when hair is exposed to high humidity for very long periods of time. How many curlies would love to have a product that could make such a promise?

In a laboratory test where samples were subjected to temperatures of 80°F and 90% relative humidity, locks of hair treated with a control gel comprised of standard polymers (PVP & VP/VA”> were compared to locks treated with a PQ-69 gel. The samples treated with the commercially-available product were found to exhibit failure of curl retention after one hour, while the PQ-69 product maintained its hold at 90% after 24 hours. Similar tests were done to evaluate frizz, and again, the PQ-69 sample performed extraordinarily well.

Luxurious shine

PQ-69 forms a film around multiple strands of hair and helps hold them all in the desired alignment. This film also increases the contrast between light and dark areas on the hairs, and increases intensity and coherence of light scattering. The result is that it gives hair increased radiance and gloss.

Super strong, durable hold with no flaking

The vinyl pyrrolidone monomer in PQ-69 allows it to form a very stiff film upon deposition onto the cuticle surface. This stiff film helps set up the curl or style and fixes it into place. Initially, this can feel quite stiff and crunchy to the user, which some people enjoy. However, oftentimes these stiff-hold polymers are also very brittle, and if the hair is touched or manipulated in any way, the polymer film breaks, flakes off most unattractively, and the style is lost. But with the unique structure of PQ-69, the vinyl caprolactam monomer adds flexibility and elasticity to the film.

Mechanical testing done on various samples showed that the polymer films can undergo a good bit of loading without breaking, and that they do exhibit some signs or permanent deformation (meaning they don’t bounce back completely, like a rubber band might do”>. As a result, curl retention is maintained, even if you touch or scrunch your hair, and best of all, no unsightly flaking occurs. Styles achieved with this polymer seem to tolerate being scrunched to work out the crunchiness and stiffness, and yield tight, bouncy curls afterward.

Take-home message

In summary, gels and other styling products made with specialty polymer, polyquaternium-69 will provide a very strong hold.  While this may feel too stiff and crunchy initially, it can be scrunched out to achieve soft, very bouncy curls.  The gel does not flake, even when hair is combed or brushed. It is highly resistant to moisture and can hold even the most radical styles and curls for long periods of time in hot, humid conditions. It lends itself very well to second, and dare I say, even third-day hair, because it really helps the hair retain its shape. The shine produced is perhaps not as glossy as that produced by amodimethicone, but it is still very noticeable and nice.  The ease of removability due to its limited ionic nature means it is safe for almost all cleansing regimens.

On a personal note, I tried some of my husband’s gel (Göt2b Ultra Glued Styling Gel”> the other day, because I was out of my own.  While initially annoyed at the tremendously strong and crunchy texture, I have been pleasantly surprised at how nice the curls and shine have been since gently scrunching my hair. The style has actually held up very nicely for three days, even in the ridiculously hot and humid conditions here in Florida! I have not enjoyed the tactile feel of my hair with this product though, but I think that is simply because two of the other ingredients in it don’t usually work well for me. I plan to purchase the Jessicurl product (Spiralicious Styling Gel”> immediately, to continue my experiments with this polymer.

By Tonya McKay · Published September 7, 2016

What is magnesium sulfate?

Magnesium sulfate, also known as Epsom salts,  is an ingredient often touted as a natural curl booster or curl activator for hair.

It is typically used in leave-in conditioners and curl enhancers, both commercially available and homemade, and it is applied via a spray-on delivery method.

When you use products that contain magnesium sulfate you may find that your hair is curlier and bouncier on day one, but with repeated use, later in the week your hair may feel dry and hard to work with.

What curlies say

NaturallyCurly members are extremely astute when it comes to ingredients and their hair. Reader Sophiemol_ asked in our CurlTalk forum:

Why does magnesium sulfate make my hair curl so well?

I just wish it didn’t dry out my hair so darn much…I’ve been playing around with using it over top of [SheaMoisture] and with other massively moisturizing products, but it doesn’t seem to be counteracting the drying…

By understanding the protein structure of curls and how magnesium sulfate interacts with it, we can gain a better understanding of why magnesium sulfate enhances curl pattern and retention, and also why the effects seem short-lived and eventually become unpleasant.

What makes hair curly?

Hair is comprised of keratin protein, a polypeptide particularly differentiated from other proteins for its large proportion of cysteine, a sulfur-containing amino acid.  These polypeptide strands are crosslinked (bound together into a three-dimensional network”> via formation of covalent bonds between adjacent cysteine residues. This linkage is a chemical crosslink referred to as the disulfide bond, and is the source of the strength and physical configuration of the hair. As the degree of disulfide crosslinking in a strand increases, so does the amount of curl in the hair. 

As the degree of disulfide crosslinking in a strand increases, so does the amount of curl in the hair. 

Crosslinking also occur between the polypeptide chains, and they also contribute to the structure of the hair. These two additional types of crosslinking are achieved via hydrogen bonding and formation of salt bonds and are sometimes referred to as secondary bonds. However, both of these types are physical crosslinks, rather than chemical ones (imagine it as two strands taped together or two magnets attracted to one another versus two strands sewn together or melted and re-formed into one object”>, and are susceptible to disruption via mechanical forces (touching or brushing the hair, wind”> or the presence of water (swimming, washing, humidity, rain”>. Perms enhance curls by breaking the disulfide bonds via chemical means, curling the hair tightly to physically restructure it, and then re-forming the disulfide bonds at a higher percentage.

What does magnesium sulfate do?

Several researchers have found that hair is stronger and curl retention is increased when magnesium sulfate is incorporated into the rinsing and neutralizing agent used to re-form the disulfide bonds. They also noted that its use enhanced the curl pattern and imparted a greater stability to high humidity.

Magnesium sulfate is an inorganic compound that exists as a hydrated material, magnesium sulfate septahydrate (MgSO4• 7H2O”>. This salt is extremely hydrophilic and thus easily dissolved into an aqueous solution that can be spritzed onto the hair. It attracts and binds water molecules from its surroundings to itself.  When MgSO4 is applied topically to hair it does not affect the covalent disulfide bonds, but it does impact the physical crosslinks formed by hydrogen bonds. By increasing the number of hydrogen bonds, the Epsom salt tightens the curl pattern of the hair.

How does magnesium “activate” curls?

The mechanism by which magnesium sulfate achieves this curl activation consists of two steps:

• First, the magnesium neutralizes the excess negative charges on the surface of the keratin and brings it to its ideal pH (also known as its isoelectric point”>.
• Secondly, a dehydration mechanism via a salt-protein interaction increases the quantity of hydrogen bonds (physical crosslinks”>, which makes the hair curlier.  This second part is what is critical to understand.

Why does magnesium sulfate make your hair feel dry and rough?

Hair keratin protein incorporates water into its structure. This moisture gives it softness and pliability and is why we strive to maintain properly hydrated hair. However, in a highly hydrated environment, the formation of hydrogen bonds between adjacent cysteine amino acids is minimal. But, in the presence of the highly hygroscopic salt, MgSO4, the keratin protein becomes dehydrated. This dehydrated environment is what permits the formation of additional hydrogen bonds and the curl activating properties of magnesium sulfate. Thus, the very quality that permits magnesium sulfate to boost curl formation is also the one that generates the poor results in subsequent uses.

Magnesium sulfate also forms fairly large crystals, and these structures can roughen the surface of hair, yielding an unpleasant texture and tactile experience for some. They may increase tangling as well, if adjacent hair strands get caught on them. For this reason, it is advisable to use a good lubricative leave-in conditioner along with a magnesium sulfate. (Dare I say it? A silicone might work nicely and not interfere with the curl forming effects of the MgSO4″>.

What about magnesium oil?

Some products are beginning to advertise that they use magnesium oil, rather than magnesium sulfate.  These are typically a supersaturated aqueous solution of magnesium chloride (MgCl2″>. The chlorine molecule changes the properties of the salt, rendering it slightly less hydroscopic. For this reason, it may not boost curl as significantly, but also will not dehydrate and potentially damage the hair as much. It seems a reasonable type of product with which to experiment.

How to use magnesium sulfate safely

Magnesium sulfate can indeed be a useful curl activator or curl booster and has a place in the arsenal of every curly girl (or guy”>.  However, the mechanism by which it achieves this effect leaves hair, especially fragile curly hair, very vulnerable to damage due to dehydration.  This effect can be minimized by using magnesium sulfate infrequently as an emergency agent, or using it in conjunction with products that deeply moisturize and protect the hair.  CurlTalk member Jas76 says that “a good LI [leave-in conditioner] under it helps, and then scrunching in some light oil after it’s dry helps, too!! And yes – don’t use it everyday if you find it particularly drying.” We also recommend that you condition very well after every use.

This article was originally published in 2013 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Tonya McKay · Published May 11, 2016

photo courtesty of Pavel Rodlmov – Getty Images

Hair is much like a sponge, capable of absorbing water and other substances from the environment; it is also susceptible to losing precious moisture and lipids to the environment. Maintaining an optimal balance of moisture in your hair preserves its elasticity. This is especially important for those of us with curly hair, as it greatly influences the health and beauty of our curls.

The individual scales of the cuticle overlap one another much like the feathers of a bird or scales on a fish.

This amazing system allows diffusion of oils and moisture into and out of the hair, as needed. Porosity is determined by how tightly the cuticle scales adhere to the surface of the hair shaft and also by how thoroughly adjacent scales overlap one another.

Low Porosity

• Hair described as having low porosity is characterized by a tightly bound cuticle layer where the individual cuticle scales lie flat and overlap one another.

Low porosity hair is quite shiny, especially if it is a darker color. This porosity is considered to be healthy. If your hair repels water when you attempt to wet it, that is a good indication that it has low porosity. It is difficult to chemically process because of its resistance to penetration. It is prone to an excessive accumulation of protein if deep conditioning products are used, and feels stiff and straw-like. High porosity curls require products that are rich in moisture and emollients; they also benefit most from products that contain humectants that attract and retain moisture to the hair.

Normal/Medium Porosity

• Hair possessing to hair with this level of porosity generally requires the least amount of maintenance.

High Porosity

• Chemical processes, harsh treatment, and environmental exposure are all responsible for causing cumulative, irreversible damage to the cuticle layer.

High porosity is a result of damage to the hair that creates gaps and holes in the surface of the shaft. Hair with this type of uneven, pitted and rough surface is prone to damage resulting in a cascade of effects that culminate in unmanageable and unlovely locks.

Hair with a great deal of porosity has been found to be capable of absorbing significantly higher amounts of water than hair or normal or low porosity (up to 55%, in contrast with 31.1% for healthy hair”>. Excessive absorption of water from the atmosphere causes frizz and tangling on humid days. Total immersion of high porosity hair during bathing, swimming, or shampooing can lead to significant breakage due to loss of elasticity from the sheer weight of the water absorbed. It also takes on color much more quickly and in higher concentrations than normal porosity hair when undergoing a chemical color process.

Curly girls with high porosity hair should use products with lots of moisturizers and emollients and also use anti-humectants in high heat and humidity climates in order to seal their cuticle against excessive absorption of moisture from the air. Protein treatments can also be helpful for patching some of the holes in the hair. However, it is important to follow up with moisturizers in order to avoid a stiff texture. Rinsing with a slightly acidic rinse will help flatten and seal the cuticle.

Genetic or Biological Contributors to Porosity

photo courtesy of Pete Collins – Getty Images

• Genetics and curl pattern contribute to how tightly the cuticle layer adheres. Some people have a circular hair shaft, which is optimal for cuticle scales to lie flat and overlap one another, resulting in low porosity.

Other types of hair are more elliptical or even flat and ribbon-like. This geometry doesn’t allow for all of the cuticle scales to lie flat and overlap one another along the axis of the hair. This creates areas of discontinuity in the cuticle layer, adding porosity to the hair.

Curly hair has a tendency to be naturally higher in porosity than straight hair. This is because the spirals in the helical configuration of the curls create areas where individual cuticle scales are raised slightly away from the longitudinal axis of the hair. The curlier the hair is, the more breaks you have in the smoothness of the surface, so the porosity is invariably increased.

External Contributors to Porosity

1. Environment: Exposure to UV rays for prolonged periods can fuse cuticle scales together, which inevitably leads to further damage of the cuticle layer. It is a good idea to cover your hair when in the sun or use products which contain sunscreen agents.
2. Chemical Processing: Perms, relaxers, and coloring processes all require the cuticle to first be opened via application of an alkaline solution. This allows the chemicals to access the interior of the hair shaft in order to make permanent changes to the structure of the proteins that are the building blocks of the hair. All of these processes are capable of doing permanent damage to the cuticle layer. This damage builds up with repeat use of the chemical process. Bleaching is the most damaging process, followed by perming and relaxing, with most permanent coloring processes being the mildest.
3. Heat treatments: Heat from a blow dryer, flat iron, curling iron, or hot curlers can all cause irreparable damage both to the cuticle and the cortex of the hair. These tools can heat water inside the hair past the boiling point and cause the hair to rupture from the inside out. It is not difficult to see how this could increase porosity.
4. Mechanical Damage: Combing, brushing, and friction from scarves, and hats, and scrunchies all cause damage to the cuticle layer. Over time all of these can result in torn and ripped cuticles, thereby increasing the porosity of the hair. Curly hair should only be combed with a wide-tooth comb while it is wet and coated with a conditioner for maximum slip. This minimizes friction and subsequent damage to the scales.
5. Shampooing with sulfates and soaps: The cuticle layer is comprised not only of keratinous scales, but also a layer of fatty acids on the top surface that protect the hair from moisture, as well as a layer beneath the scales called the cell membrane complex (CMC”>. This acts as a cement the keep the cuticle scales firmly attached to the hair. A large portion of this CMC is made up of a lipid layer of mixed fatty acids, including 18-methyleicosanioc acid (18-MEA”>, stearic acid, and palmitic acid.

By Tonya McKay · Published December 22, 2015

In the curl community, lots of energy is invested into analyzing the performance of hair care products. And while most consumers probably give little thought to the appearance of their holy grails, they are definitely influenced by this seemingly irrelevant property.

Not surprisingly, product formulators spend a lot of time optimizing products to make them visually appealing to a consumer. The incorporation of pearlizing agents, opacifiers, and artificial colors are all methods used to create products that give the visual impression of luxury.

Why products get a “cosmetic enhancement”

Shampoos and conditioners are mixtures known as oil-in-water emulsions. The major component is water, with various types of surfactants, emulsifiers, and oil-phase components dispersed into the aqueous phase via formation of micelles. Oftentimes, the concentration of non-water soluble ingredients is sufficiently high to render the micelles larger than the wavelength of visible light. This causes light to be scattered, creating a cloudy solution. Hazy solutions are not regarded as appealing by most consumers, as they can give the perception of not being clean or pure.

Color

Another potentially unpleasant phenomenon is that certain useful ingredients can impart a yellow or amber hue to the finished product. This subtle discoloration can make consumers uneasy, as that color is often associated with spoilage or rancidity. A bright white or creamy ivory colored product is generally rated as cleaner and more attractive.

Scent

It is the goal of formulating chemists to create a product that appeals to all of the senses of their consumers, so they take definite measures to make their products more visually attractive. Happily, the solutions developed are not only capable of masking cloudiness or yellowing, but can also yield a highly pleasing final product.

The techniques formulators use to improve a product’s appearance

One technique popular in the 1970’s was to cover any yellow or amber hues by using enough blue and/or green dye to create a blue or green product. These were not natural-looking and often fairly runny in consistency.

Earthy tones for natural product

Current approaches seem to favor the use of only enough color to counteract the yellow and create a white or ivory product. Another way is by using a mixture of red, blue, and yellow dyes to create a brownish products that remind the consumer of clay or earth.

Opaque, white, and thick consistency for cleansers and high-end product

An additional method to overcome hazy solutions is to incorporate opacifiers into the formula. These materials create a homogeneous, solidly opaque appearance to the shampoo or conditioner. Dow markets a line of polymers intended for this use, and the marketing materials say they create a “rich, creamy look, with a dense uniform opacity.” The use of polymers also helps to increase the viscosity of the system, which consumers also interpret as thick and luxurious.

Dow has several different polymers available for this purpose, each specially synthesized to be compatible with different common systems. Ethylammonium chloride acrylate/HEMA/styrene copolymer is cationically charged and is compatible with most cationic conditioning products. They also have an anionic opacifier for use in shampoos, soaps, liquid hand soap, and body washes, all of which traditionally rely upon anionic surfactants for cleansing purposes.

A nonionic version is sufficiently flexible to be incorporated into a variety of types of formulations, and is especially useful in silicone-containing formulae. These types of materials make bright white shampoos and conditioners that are creamy and thick.

How products get their “luster”

Perhaps a favorite method for overcoming problems with cloudiness and yellow hue in personal care products is to use pearlizing agents. These materials not only act as opacifiers, but also impart an iridescent luster to a product that is considered to be highly attractive to consumers.

This look can be achieved by using naturally-occurring minerals such as marine aragonite powder (real pearl”> or titanium oxide-coated mica particles, but more often is achieved via use of synthetic fatty acid ether esters. The synthetic esters most often used are ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS”> and ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS”>. Others are PEG-8 dioleate, myristyl myristate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, and other esters. These materials crystallize in solution into flat platelets that have a very high refractive index. Optical interference from these platelets creates a pearlescent appearance in products containing these materials.

The drawback of using pearlizing agents

One drawback to using materials such as EGDS is that the somewhat tricky process for adding them during manufacturing. Temperatures must be elevated above the melting point of the EGDS. In order to obtain the highest quality pearlescence, the crystallization process must be carefully controlled, which means that the mixing rate and forces must be carefully monitored, and the rate of cooling must also be very controlled. Crystals of just the right size,  and of the smoothest, most regular shape provide the best, most lustrous appearance.  This can be costly and troublesome.

Considering storage and shelf life

Chemical suppliers are vying for market share for these types of relatively simple-to-make ingredients. One way they seek to differentiate themselves is to provide blends that contain these pearlizing agents already dispersed into surfactant-containing mixtures. These blends have varying features to recommend them, depending upon the package, but typically, the most valuable feature is that they can be processed at cold temperatures and require much less oversight of the manufacturing process to develop the optimal crystalline structures. They are also often times more stable in typical storage conditions. Ease of processing reduces costs for the manufacturer, which translates into these pearlized products being more affordable for the consumer.

These materials can have some slight moisturizing properties for hair or skin. Generally though, they are not going to significantly impact the performance properties of your favorite shampoo or conditioner. Most opacifiers and pearlizers have sufficient polar or amphiphilic character as to be easily removed from hair (if they remain on the hair in the first place”> via a conditioner wash or mild shampoo cleanse.

Next time you shop for hair products, think about this…

So the next time you pick up a product, in addition to considering its performance and fragrance, take a moment to ponder and appreciate its appearance as well. A bunch of scientists somewhere put a lot of time and thought into making it attractive to you. It is an important part of the whole package.

This article was originally written and published in 2012 and has been updated for clarity.

By Tonya McKay · Published July 10, 2015

We see the brightly colored packaging in the aisles and watch the glossy ads of women with larger than life hair say you can have “75% more definition!” – but what is really going into your hair products? What makes a good gel different from a bad gel, and what is that thick, sticky liquid actually doing to your hair? Cosmetic chemist Tonya McKay breaks down the science of hair gels for us, so that what you spend your money on and put on your body is no secret to you.

Why use styling products?

A styling product helps to provide shape and hold to a style by forming a film on the hair that creates physical bonds between adjacent strands, holding them in place. One method of achieving this is spot welding, where droplets of product are applied at critical junctures and hold the hair in place. Hair sprays perform in this manner and are useful in providing hold to hair.

Another method of creating hold is known as seam welding and involves the application of a product down the length of the hair shaft, which facilitates formation of physical bonds between adjacent hair strands. This creates the clumping effect so often desired by people with curly hair. These types of products also impart volume to the hair by increasing stiffness from the root, which lifts it away from the scalp. Gels, hair crèmes, waxes, and mousse provide hold via the seam welding mechanism. This type of hold is very susceptible to disruption due to physical manipulation, such as combing, touching and windy conditions.

So, what is a gel?

A gel is a colloidal dispersion of particles (ranging from nanometers to micrometers in size”> in a liquid medium. The solid particles (oftentimes polymers”> form a network throughout the liquid that swells and forms a jelly-like mass. Gels are comprised mostly of liquid, but can appear like solids when at rest. The application of force allows these gels to flow like liquids, which makes them useful for many applications, such as hair care products. In a hair gel, the product has a thick consistency in the bottle, but should come out of the container easily and spread evenly on the hair. As product is applied, the polymers deposit onto the surface of the hair and cause adjacent strands to be attracted to one another through capillary forces, creating clumps of curls.

As product is applied, the polymers deposit onto the surface of the hair and cause adjacent strands to be attracted to one another through capillary forces, creating clumps of curls.

The composition of a hair gel:

• water as the main ingredient
• polymers for film-forming
• emulsifiers for non-water soluble components
• viscosity modifiers (thickeners, such as carbomer”>
• fragrance
• preservatives
• additives used to impart moisture, shine, and UV protection, and to modify the properties of the film that is formed

Modification of the film properties of hair gels is the subject of continuing research and development, both at the academic and corporate level. The reason for this lies in the fact that no current polymer or combination of polymers provides the perfect set of properties. Some polymers provide excellent hold, but are too brittle and can cause flaking or style disruption throughout the day. Others may get around the problem of being brittle, but may be susceptible to moisture and cause frizzy or dull hair in humid environments. Still others may provide all the desired hold and shine properties and be indifferent to climate, but may be difficult to remove with shampoo and can cause unattractive build up problems. It is also desirable that a hair gel maintain its properties over a broad range of temperatures, which can be another difficult obstacle to overcome.

Hold Agents

Some of the more frequently used polymer fixative agents include, but are definitely not limited to, the following:

• PVP (poly N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone”> is an excellent film-former that is substantive to hair, forms clear films, and is completely water soluble. However, it absorbs water readily, which in humid weather makes it sticky or tacky to the touch, can cause frizz, and give a dull appearance to the hair. In dry weather, it can become brittle and flaky.
• PVA (polyvinyl acetate”> resists absorption of water in high humidity (which leads to better hold in damp weather conditions”> and is more flexible in dry weather so it doesn’t flake, but is not as substantive to hair.
• PVP/VA copolymer provides an excellent compromise between the properties of each of these polymers individually.
• Polyurethane (good thermal stability”>, acrylic copolymer, polyacrylates, acrylates copolymer, and other copolymers are also all hold agents found in hair gels.
• Cationic polymers (Polyquaternium”>: These positively-charged polymers are very substantive to the negatively-charged surfaces of human hair. For this reason, some cationic polymers have been found to be useful in hair styling applications. They form clear, glossy films and decrease static-charge buildup and fly-away hair. They typically provide good wet and dry combing results and impart a smooth feel to the hair.
• Polyquaternium-4: is a superior film-former on the hair, and has been found to exhibit very high curl retention even in humidity. It is very substantive to hair, but exhibits little build-up. It is very stiff due to its molecular structure, and is thus outstanding for use in hair gels.
• Polyquaternium-11: is copolymer of VP/DMAEMA (vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate”>. As a copolymer of VP and an acrylate, it is less susceptible to humidity than VP homopolymer. However, it may have more potential for failure due to humidity than polyquaternium-4. Polyquaternium-11 is generally recommended for mousses and creams, where it can moisturize as well as aid in styling. This polymer is water miscible, but not water soluble. This could lead to some build-up over time if one were not using a clarifying shampoo occasionally. There are many more polymers, copolymers, combinations of polymers, and new additives for hair gels that are being used in commercially available formulas, and even more being developed in laboratories. Many of these provide better rinsability, more softness, and a tougher film with better hold. We may explore some of these newer ideas and technologies in a future article.

To sum it up

If you live in a humid, hot environment, you should avoid a product containing PVP as an ingredient. If you are in a dry, cold climate, you should seek a product with Polyquaternium-11. Humectant additives–panthenol, propylene glycol, glycerin–may help product performance in a dry climate also, but may be disastrous in a humid one. As always, experimentation will be necessary to find the product that is right for you and your hair.

This article was originally published in January 2008, and has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Tonya McKay · Published June 3, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Natasha Lee

Polymer scientists continually collaborate with cosmetic chemists and formulators to develop new molecules designed to overcome limitations that exist with currently available ingredients. One example of such work is Polyquaternium-59 (Crodasorb UV-HPP”>, a cationic polymer which is now being used in a number of commercially-available skin and hair care formulations, including some products by Ouidad. Since the structure, function, and performance of the polymers in this category can vary so widely, as each is specifically tailored to meet a targeted need, it is worthwhile to take the time to examine this particular polymer to gain an understanding of its potential benefits to both the consumer and the chemist in a formulation.

What is it?

Polyquaternium-59 is a polyester molecule that has quaternized ammonium sites (positively-charged”> along both its backbone as well as in pendant groups attached to the chain.

(IUPAC name: Poly(20,25-dioxo-2,5,10,15,18-pentamethyl-10-(2-hydroxy-3-(3-(3-phenyl-2-propenamido”>propyldimethylammonio”>propyl”>-10-azonia-1,4,7,13,16,19-hexaoxapentacosanediyl”> chloride”>

Compared to many cationic polymers, it is of relatively low molecular weight, averaging 5000 grams per mole, and according to the manufacturer, Croda, it is 65% active, which means it has a high level of charge density relative to other polyquaternium materials used in cosmetic applications. This enhances the water solubility of these polymers and also increases substantivity to hair, and thus improves conditioning properties. The high degree of water solubility also means this polymer is suitable for cold mix processes, which is appealing to formulators from both a cost-saving perspective and from an environmentally friendly manufacturing paradigm. [i]

The novel twist to the polymer structure in PQ-59 is the inclusion of groups capable of absorbing UV radiation at the ends of the pendant groups. (For those interested in the specific organic chemistry, these groups are a carbonyl group conjugated diene/ aromatic moieties “>. These portions of the molecule transform the harmful, high energy UV radiation into a lower energy form (infrared”> that is emitted as heat. This sun protection quality is perhaps the most valuable contribution this polymer makes to any personal care product formula.

Sun Protection for Hair

The surface of human hair is highly hydrophobic, which helps to seal moisture into the hair shaft, protect it from the environment and mitigate effects from fluctuations in humidity that can cause structural damage.

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation occurs whenever we go outside. We are all well aware of the importance of limiting skin exposure to these harmful rays, but it is less well known the extent of damage they do to hair as well. UV-B radiation (280-320 nm”> cleaves disulfide bonds (S-S”> in the cuticle, depletes cystine in the structure, and thus damages the protein structure of the protective cover of the hair strand. This increases surface roughness and porosity, which results in frizz, tangling, and ultimately, breakage. Breakage of disulfide bonds can also lead to frizz and unmanageability as it disrupts curl structures. [ii]

UV also depletes the protective lipids found on the surface of the cuticle. This increases combing forces necessary to detangle hair, which generally results in formation of split ends and breakage.

The surface of human hair is highly hydrophobic, which helps to seal moisture into the hair shaft, protect it from the environment and mitigate effects from fluctuations in humidity that can cause structural damage. UV-B breaks down tryptophan found in the protein structure of the hair and creates a more highly negatively charged surface, which becomes more hydrophilic and less capable of moisture retention and more susceptible to ill effects from the environment.

Ultraviolet radiation also penetrates into the cortex of the hair where it breaks down protein structures within the hair strand as well, compromising the mechanical integrity of the hair. This results in a lower tensile strength for the hair, and so it breaks more easily. UV-A radiation in the cortex reacts with both natural melanin pigments and chemical dye molecules, causing photobleaching and yellowing, both definitely undesirable effects.

Clearly, protecting hair from damage from ultraviolet radiation is a desirable goal, for health, strength, luster, color retention and overall beauty of our tresses. This is especially true for longer hair, as damage is cumulative. Since wearing a hat everywhere does not seem like a fashionable solution, chemists and formulators have been experimenting with different ingredients for a while. Some of the limitations of common sun protective ingredients in current use are that the smaller molecules are not very substantive to hair, and they are often very greasy. For this reason, polyquaternium-59 was developed to overcome some of the deficiencies of other options. Its greater charge density as a cationic polymer enhances its substantivity to the surface of hair, which carries a slight negative charge. Also, as a lighter weight, water-soluble polymer, it has no greasy tactile sensation.

Read More: The Best Vitamin for Hair Growth?

Measuring Performance

PQ-59 has been found to mitigate damage caused by ultraviolet radiation and produces excellent results by preserving hair’s natural hydrophobicity, maintaining fiber tensile strength, and reducing combing forces. The synergistic combination of both substantive conditioning polymeric properties and UV-absorbing properties has the potential to create a uniquely effective molecule.

Many ingredients and products carry bold claims, but it can be difficult to determine true efficacy of the material. Fortunately the manufacturers of this polymer have done a large amount of scientific testing to evaluate the performance of PQ-59. It is important to keep in mind that with a vested economic interest in the success of the polymer, they are not unbiased, and thus the procedures, data and conclusions should be examined closely and with some degree of skepticism.

A variety of quantitative testing techniques were used to determine the ability of PQ-59 to provide protection from harmful UV radiation. Hair was treated with a 2% polymer solution in SLES (sodium lauryl ether sulfate”> and run against untreated hair and hair treated with small molecule uv-absorbers. All hair was tested before and after a dose of exposure to UV radiation equivalent to eighteen days.

The claims were substantiated by the following results. Dynamic contact angle experiments showed a (statistically significant”> higher degree of retained hydrophibicity on the surface of the hair compared to hair treated with a small molecule. Measurement of tryptophan levels at the surface via fluorescence spectroscopy revealed higher levels of retained tryptophan in treated hair versus untreated hair. Mechanical testing showed a five percent increase in tensile strength for irradiated hairs that had been treated with PQ-59 compared to untreated hairs. Scanning electron microscopy imaging of the cuticle showed a smoother, more intact surface for hairs treated with the polymer. Finally, spectrocolorimetric evaluation demonstrated increased color retention in fibers treated with the polymer. Third party visual inspection and comparison of treated versus untreated tresses also concluded that PQ-59 improved color retention after prolonged UV exposure.

The data certainly seem to support that this polymer can effectively mitigate damage caused to hair by exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It also does not appear to be necessary to use large quantities of the polymer, as 2% seems to provide significant benefit, even in a rinse-off product. It would be beneficial to see data run by an objective third party, but oftentimes, finished goods manufacturers do not make their data available to the public.

Notes for Curly Hair or No-Shampooers

Curly hair is especially susceptible to anything that could cause damage to the protein structure of the hair. For this reason, protecting it from environmental damage is essential, which includes limiting ultraviolet radiation exposure. PQ-59 seems to be an ingredient that can be quite useful for this purpose and is currently being incorporated into products with increasing frequency.

Polyquaternium-59 is extremely soluble in water, alcohol and glycerin. It is also very soluble in surfactant-containing mixtures, such as SLES, SLS, ALS and presumably cocamidopropyl betaine (although no specific data were found regarding the betaine”>. It also has a relatively small molecular size relative to other polymers used in hair care applications. So, while the positively charged polymer is substantive to the surface of the hair via electrostatic interactions with the negative charges on the cuticle, it seems probable that removal should be fairly simple via several different mechanisms, depending upon the preference of the user. No specific experiments studying the potential for buildup of these polymers on hair was found though, so as always, try it yourself, and see if you like it.

Want More?

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Handling Diluted and Homemade Products

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Sources

By Tonya McKay · Published May 7, 2015

I don’t usually talk much about my hair, but lately it has been dry and tangled! Seriously — it is awful. I think a poor choice in a do-it-yourself color process and my being in-between “holy grail” conditioners are both to blame. Since I hate the feel of a haystack on my head, I have been experimenting with different oils and home treatments, while I ponder which commercial products to purchase for a (hopefully”> more long-term solution.

While perusing the forums here at NaturallyCurly.com in hopes of discovering a new conditioner, I have read several discussions about avocado and wheat germ oils and whether or not they contain significant amounts of plant protein. Since some of us with curly hair love and seek out conditioning products that contain proteins, while others avoid them like the plague, it is an important question. Thus, I thought it would be relevant and possibly fun to examine these two plant oils more closely.

Avocado oil and wheat germ oil are derived from their respective sources using various methods; typically solvent extraction, cold press or mechanical extraction, and more rarely, supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. What each of these techniques has in common is that they act to separate the relatively low molecular weight oils (fatty acids”> and oil-soluble vitamins and minerals present in the fruit or seed from the other materials that comprise the whole — fiber, protein, sugars and water.

Although I have seen various products advertising that their wheat germ oil contains “many proteins,” the evidence does not support this assertion. I wanted to get the opinion of an expert, so I consulted Professor Dunford of Oklahoma State University’s Department of Biosystems and Agricultural Engineering. He states that some solid granules or particles may get into the oil during the extraction process, which can lead to the inclusion of some small amount of protein in the oil. However, refined oils go through multiple steps of purification, including additional solvent extraction, filtration, and drying. For this reason, most of these oils used in cosmetics and personal care products should contain no more than trace amounts of protein, if any at all.

Relative concentration of the oil and trace amounts of protein should also be considered. If an oil comprises 1% by weight of a product (or even 5%”> and contains a very small amount of protein, the protein concentration is negligible upon dilution of the oil into the product formula and even more so when diluted by water in application. It is my educated guess that the concentration of protein in a product or even in a direct application of the oil will be substantially less than in a protein-containing conditioner.

So what is in these oils that makes them special?

Wheat germ oil

Wheat germ oil (“triticum vulgare” on most personal-care-product labels”> is a very nutrient-rich plant-derived oil that contains a variety healthful substances. Among these are several different longer-chain fatty acids, long-chain saturated fatty alcohols such as octacosanol, and plentiful amounts of several vitamins and minerals. It is especially valued for its high content of tocopherols (Vitamin E”>, known to provide many health benefits.

Wheat germ does not differ from other triglyceride-derived oils, in that it contains a variety of fatty acids, the exact ratio of which will vary. The major components, in descending order of concentration, are:

• linoleic acid, an omega-6 essential fatty acid
• oleic acid
• palmitic acid
• linolenic acid, an omega-3 EFA

Several other fatty acids are present in very small quantities. The average molecular length of the major fatty acids in wheat germ oil is larger than that of coconut oil, which may give enhanced emollient benefits to wheat germ oil. The presence of the long-chain fatty alcohols also provides an additional boost to the conditioning and moisturizing properties of wheat germ oil. Based on its chemical profile, it seems like a great product to include in your home hair care routine.

Avocado oil

Avocado oil is comprised mainly of oleic acid, palmitic acid, and linoleic acid. It also has several other fatty acids present. Its main fatty acid components are almost identical to those found in wheat germ oil, but the distribution differs. Avocado oil also contains significant amounts of Vitamins A, E, and D, again with Vitamin E being present in significant amounts. This oil is valued for its light feel and excellent emollient properties.

The magic ingredient in both oils?

Both wheat germ oil and avocado oil contain significant amounts of tocopherol, or Vitamin E. Vitamin E has been found to be especially beneficial as a moisturizing agent for both hair and skin due to its ability to penetration beneath the surface.. Studies have shown that tocopherol acetate (Vitamin E acetate”> is absorbed directly into the hair cortex, where it can moisturize and plump the hair shaft. Deposition/penetration profiles have shown that significant amounts are absorbed, and that the effects are cumulative. Deposition is found to be increased on the surface of damaged hair, which is of significance for curly hair, which is more likely to have a damaged cuticle layer.

Another fascinating attribute of Vitamin E is that it has been found to possess properties that enable it to aid in the prevention and reversal of some forms of hair loss. As a powerful anti-oxidant, vitamin E can also protect the hair from damage caused by free radicals encountered due to exposure to UV radiation (sunlight”>, chemicals and pollutants.

The incorporation of natural, plant-based oils into a home hair care routine is a timeless tradition. It is so much fun to play with them, as there are so many with which to experiment and most of them smell really good! The two oils discussed in this article seem to be exceptional candidates due to the fatty alcohols present in wheat germ oil and the Vitamin E found in both of them. Unless one has a severe allergy to wheat protein in particular, I would also not be concerned about the presence of any trace amounts of protein molecules in the oil. So, once again, it is time to hit the health food store and stock up on some cooking and beauty products!

Sources:

Centerchem

Skolnik, P. Eaglstein, W.H., Ziboh, V.A. “Human Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency.” Arch Dermatol, 1977; 113 (7″>: 939-941 (ref. 6751″>. — fatty acids and hair loss

Email your questions to Tonya.

This article was originally published May 2009.

By Tonya McKay · Published August 8, 2014

Quaternium-80

What does quaternium mean?

The International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI”> system of naming is not always descriptive and specific like the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC”> system, so sometimes the names are a bit mystifying. The term quaternium is a hybrid word used as chemical shorthand to describe quaternized ammonium cation compounds.

Quats are molecules or parts of molecules that contain a central nitrogen atom bonded to four different species, which imparts a positive charge to the central nitrogen atom. In cosmetic applications, quaternium refers to certain cationic surfactants that have a fatty acid-derived hydrophobic tail with a hydrophilic quaternized ammonium head.

A few examples of common quaternium compounds used in hair care products are stearalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, and behentrimonium methosulfate. These molecules are water soluble, very versatile, and are used in oil-in-water systems as conditioning agents as well as emulsifiers for water insoluble ingredients such as silicones.

What do they do?

The cuticle surface of hair possesses a mild overall negative charge, which becomes more pronounced in color-treated, chemically-processed, or otherwise damaged hair. Positively-charged head groups of quaternized ammonium surfactants adsorb onto the surface of the hair as a result of electrostatic attraction to these negatively-charged sites. The molecules are held in place at that site, and the hydrophobic tail of the surfactant molecule drapes itself along the axis of the hair strand, forming a film on the surface of the cuticle. This film provides several benefits, including facilitation of wet and dry combing and detangling, elimination of static electricity and fly-away hair, and improved slip and tactile feel, i.e. silky hair.

Polyquaternium materials are polymers that have been modified to have multiple cationically-charged quaternized ammonium sites along their backbones or hanging pendant from the backbone. These substances adhere extremely well to hair and form a smoothing, protective film, because the many positive sites bond with many negative sites on the cuticle surface. This makes them fabulous conditioners for many people, and they do provide many benefits such as improved color retention and some thermal protection as well. However, some people experience buildup or unwanted accumulation of these materials on the surface of their hair, due to the tenacious nature of the bond formed between the polymer and the cuticle.

Quaternium-80 is a member of a group of specialized quats (sometimes referred to as silquats or silicone quats“> that have a quaternized ammonium head and a silicone tail, rather than a hydrocarbon one. Although quaternium-80 is not a polyquat, it is actually a polymer with a silicone middle, and a positively-charged ammonium ion on each end. The silicone portion does not have multiple cationic sites along its backbone, so it does not pose the same problems as polyquats with regards to removal. Its water soluble nature means that a mild shampoo or conditioner wash should be completely sufficient to remove it from the surface of the hair.

Quaternium-80 is:

• a cationic surfactant known as a quat
• a modified silicone
• water soluble

Quaternium-80 is not:

• a polyquaternium (polyquat”>

This specialized polymeric surfactant has been found to provide excellent targeted conditioning and anti-static properties in a manner similar to other quats, but with superior detangling and wet combability. Where it really stands out is in the high amount of gloss and shine it provides, as well as the very silky tactile feel reported by users in laboratory trials. The silicone portion of the ingredient is undoubtedly responsible for its unique performance. Since it is water soluble, the enhancing properties of a silicone polymer can be enjoyed without fear of build up.

Products with Quaternium-80

Ouidad Color Preserving Shampoo, Aphogee Curlific Moisture Rich Leave-In, Creme of Nature 7-in-1 Leave-in Treatment, Curls Unleashed Moisturizing Conditioner, DevaCurl No-Comb Detangling Spray, Ouidad Curl Quencher Curl Cream

Summary

In closing, the silicone quat ingredient quaternium-80 is a conditioning agent that provides excellent benefits, especially to regions of greater damage on the cuticle. It is very substantive and forms a smooth, protective film over the hair, and provides anti-static effects, ease of combing and detangling, a silky feel, and high gloss. While it does adsorb onto the surface of and adhere to the hair to provide durable conditioning benefits, its water soluble nature and few (only two”> quaternized sites mean that it is relatively easy to remove from the surface of the hair, unlike polyquaternium conditioners.