Rollersets are all the rage right now. They give you long-lasting hold, stretch, definition, and versatility and can last up to two weeks…when installed and maintained properly. The main challenges are learning how to install them and sleeping with them overnight properly. My mother is a pro at installing rollers; it’s second nature.
Give her a mirror, rat-tooth comb, and Infusion 23 Leave-in Conditioner; she will be done in 20 minutes. But she has relaxed hair, so it is a lot less challenging. When it comes to roller-setting curly and coily hair, everything matters from start to finish. The way it looks wet is how it sets.
Here are some tips to help you achieve a smooth, bouncy roller set.
1. Wet hair or thoroughly stretched hair
Image Source: @amandalemeau
If you want longevity and shine, start on wet hair. If you want more bounce and volume, start on stretched, dry hair. Your dry hair can either be blown out or thoroughly detangled, stretched hair from a previous twist out or braid out.
When styling wet hair, the more your hair is saturated with water, the sleeker the curls will look. Wet hair is easier to stretch and smooth before wrapping around the roller than dry hair, but if you do not have a hooded bonnet dryer and are afraid that your hair will not be dry by morning, then go ahead and blow-dry.
2. Smooth ends
Nothing kills a roller set like frizzy ends. For best results, you want to use a denman brush, tangle teezer, or fine-tooth comb. After your hair has been cleansed, conditioned, moisturized, and detangled, glide the brush or comb from roots to ends, holding the hair tight and making sure it is completely smooth along the length of the hair.
Image Source: @welltrainedhair
If the ends are frizzy, then add more styling products or water. When wrapping the roller around the section, slightly rotate it to help the ends lie smoothly. If your ends do not stop curling, then try using True Wave End Papers to help them lie flat. Some women substitute endpapers for tissue paper or paper towels.
3. Setting products
This step matters. Most women prefer to use foam setting lotion, and I think you should, too. Recently, some have been using gel, but remember that gels are formulated to enhance your natural curl definition and absorb moisture from the air, which can cause your style to frizz. If you use too much, your hair can look like Ramen noodles. If you do opt for gel, try using flaxseed gel.
When it comes to foam setting lotion you can be more generous with the product and any crunch can simply be scrunched out an oil. The polymers that most gels are formulated with create a hard cast that can leave your curls crispy. Styling creams tend to be too heavy and cause the hair to take even longer to dry, so we think styling foams are the best option.
Here are some of our favorite foam-setting lotions.
- Creme of Nature Argan Oil Style & Shine Foaming Mousse
- Miracle 9 Touch of Nature Wrap, Set & Twist Honey & Avocado Mousse
- Lottabody Wrap Me Foaming Mousse with Coconut & Shea Oil
4. Release when completely dry
Image Source: @breannaself
Do not, I repeat, do not release the rollers until all of your hair is completely dry. Releasing the rollers too soon while damp hair leaves your curls vulnerable to frizz the second you walk outdoors. To ensure this does not happen, you can always use a hooded bonnet dryer before bed and spot-check different areas of your hair before going to sleep or before you release your curls. I do not suggest going to sleep with soaking-wet rollers. At least allow them to dry 60%-80%.
5. Proper release
Image Source: @maibespokenhair
To reduce the potential for lack of uniformity, make sure you lubricate your hands with an oil or butter and then take your time to release them. If you want to separate the curls for more volume, then work with them and not against them. Always twirl the curls around your fingers in the direction they are set to reinforce the curls. Make sure to twirl your fingers down the length of the curls to ensure that they do not separate in a manner that you did not intend and cause frizz.
6. Maintenance
No, you do not have to reset your hair. Coifing your curls in a loose pineapple should suffice.
How do you achieve your roller sets? What are your favorite rollers and products?
