“What is my curl pattern?” is the most frequently asked question that naturalistas encounter when trying to identify their curl type. Social media is full of gorgeous pictures featuring different waves, coils, and curls that reflect different types of curls. First, I want to acknowledge that there isn’t a master curl pattern guide on the market that will give you all the answers. As the natural hair revolution has evolved, we’ve seen more blended textures across different curl patterns.
But there are foundational elements that any naturalista can keep in mind like lightweight products versus heavy products, but it is probably the least important factor in hair care. Other factors like porosity play a larger role in how you care for your hair than curl pattern. But if you are new to the curly community, or perhaps if you’ve been here a while and haven’t figured out this curl pattern stuff yet, then there are a few things that could be hindering the pursuit of your curl pattern.
1. You need to let your hair shrink
Image Source: @brazilcurls
Stretched styles (e.g., twist out, braid out, etc.) will not give a proper representation of your curl pattern. Also, wet hair is not a proper depiction, as the water is weighing it down. After cleansing and deep conditioning, shingle a moisturizer and styling product throughout your hair with your fingers and allow your hair to shrink as it dries. Some say you can identify your curl pattern in its wet state, but a wet 4A can easily be mistaken as a dry 3C (we know curly hair struggles happening here), so a shrunken wash and go in its dried state is the most accurate way to make an assessment.
2. Stop combing your hair after you wash it
Image Source: @doodieztv
Put the comb down. There is nothing wrong with using a comb to detangle or even style, but combing separates your natural curl alignment/curl definition. The best way to observe your curl pattern is after it has been washed and not styled with tools. I know it is a natural tendency to comb your hair to style it, but this only disrupts the curl definition, making it harder to identify your curl pattern.
3. Heat damage
Image Source: @rihanashani
Let’s not be in denial. You mean to tell me that the leave out that you kept straightening to match your weave or extensions is 3B, but the rest of your hair is 4B? If you use heat tools frequently, then more times than not, that is why you cannot figure out your curl pattern. Give your hair a six-month break from heat styling. If the texture at the roots is different from the length of your hair, then you definitely have heat damage. Much like transitioning with relaxed hair, without cutting the damaged ends, it can be difficult to observe your true curl pattern due to the weight of the damaged hair.
4. Dryness
If your hair is dry, it is less likely to maintain curl definition. Make sure your regimen is centered on putting moisture into your hair. Most of the women I know who are able to capture their curl definition are avid about deep conditioning and sealing their hair with an oil or butter. If you are using a gel with drying alcohols instead of fatty alcohols, this could be another reason your hair is dry.
5. You’re still transitioning
Image Source: @becomingbernilia_mylife1
Everyone thought they had the same hair as Tracee Ellis Ross until it was time to cut those relaxed ends. Oh, was it just me? Identifying your curl pattern while your hair is transitioning is quite difficult and not an accurate portrayal until you cut the relaxed ends. The weight matters. I remember when people would show me pictures of someone with a 4A, shoulder-length wash and go and say they were not going to big chop until they reached that length. My response would always be, “Well, I guess you are going to be transitioning for 3-5 years with no trims.” When transitioning, the best thing to focus on is moisturizing, deep conditioning, protein treatments, and low manipulation styles. Your curl pattern is completely irrelevant.
6. You’re focusing on frizz
Image Source: @dalmalaluna
Although looser curl patterns have a higher tendency to create and sustain curl definition, frizzy hair exists for every curl pattern. Frizzy hair does not automatically qualify you as 4C and curl definition does not automatically make you a 3B. I have seen frizz and definition across the board which is a universal curly hair struggle. Frizzy, 3B hair exists just like defined, 4C hair exists.
7. You do not have curl definition
Image Source: @natural.hair.design
There is a difference between someone whose hair does not clump versus someone who has frizz. If your hair does not clump into a consistent pattern while wet, then you do not have a natural curl definition, and that is fine. There is nothing wrong with your hair.
If your hair does have definition while wet, then you do have a curl pattern but your unique texture is just more prone to frizz without the proper moisturizing products, styling products, and techniques, and that is fine. There is nothing wrong with your hair. Remember, curl definers can only capture a curl, not create one. Learning how to master your wash-and-go takes time, and that still does not guarantee that frizz will be completely eliminated; it may only be reduced.
Some people never learn about their curl pattern and have an equally healthy hair care journey, so please do not fret. Knowing your curl pattern is not the be-all and end-all to having healthy hair.
Now that you have a better understanding of what to look for keep these in mind and take the curl pattern quiz.
Once you’ve gotten your curl pattern on lock, 12 Curly Girl Method Approved Curl Creams for Every Curl Pattern. Do you have any tips for finding a curl pattern? Share them in the comments below!
This article was originally published in 2015 and has been updated.
