Artists like Solange, Kelela, and Willow Smith created headlines rocking abstract braids. Even though these women made hieroglyphic cornrows popular, they date back to ancient Africa, where Black women created freestyle braids as a fashion statement and as archival art pieces for hairstylists to have a free range of creativity.
Image Source: Ryuan Johnson
Chicago native Ryuan Johnson learned at six years old that braids were monumental to taking care of Black hair. The 23-year-old championed her beautician grandmother for expressing her imagination through hair. Growing up in Garfield Park, located on the city’s westside, Johnson never envisioned being an editorial hairstylist, designing plaits for haircare brands, and being featured in magazines. However, she applauds her “natural talent.” Johnson’s legacy ensures a safe space for women whose creativity outshines their ability to conform to any environment.
NaturallyCurly had a chat with Johnson to discuss this electrifying protective style.
How does your Chicago upbringing influence your braiding techniques?
Going to inner city schools, girls would come with design braids. In my family, colored braids were embraced. Chicago shaped the way I braid because I feel free to be creative. I grew up in a big city with different people who are experimental with hair.
What makes your brand, Sexy Scalps, fresh and innovative?
Image source: @sexyscalps
I want to challenge the idea of what normal hair is supposed to be, whether that’s sculpting or accessorizing. I love to take random things around my house, dice, lighters, and computer keys, and put them in the hair. The way I freestyle braids is fresher because it’s contemporary—not pre-planned. Sexy Scalps is this take on African traditional braiding through a modern, artistic, African American, Gen Z lens.
Abstract braids aren’t super trendy, but they are not exactly new. Since cornrows impacted Black culture, where do you find inspiration?
Image source: @sexyscalps
I feel inspired by nature. I take inspiration from my ancestors. While trying to make this my own, I’m inspired by braiders around the U.S. because everyone’s style is different. I’m inspired by the person’s hair I’m doing. Some want to feel neat and structured. Some are creative and free. They’re like, “I want to look crazy! I want to look like I’m walking at the Met Gala.” I’m, like, say less.
What makes abstract braids an effective protective style?
Image source: @sexyscalps
Weaving protects coiled hair. I take steps oiling the scalp, using heat protectants, not braiding too tight and using products to help maintain growth and durability during the winter.
What are your favorite products to use on clients?
I love Shea Moisture. I like Shine N Jam. Shine N Jam just partnered with Stasha Harris. They collaborated with her because she made Magic Fingers specifically for braiders. Annette Roche makes this rosemary retwist oil that I use religiously to oil the scalp.
What products from Shea Moisture do you gravitate towards?
If I’m going to be doing a natural hairstyle, I liked their Curl Enhancing Smoothie and Coconut & Hibiscus Freeze-Free Curl Mousse.
How was your experience connecting with Ravyn Lenae and braiding her hair for her tour?
Image Source: @iakamin
I connected with Ravyn Lenae because her music and work have always inspired me. I love how she has this theme of red hair and experimenting with braids. One day, I commented under her Instagram picture, “I would love to do your hair for your tour.” Weeks later, her manager hit me up. I literally screamed.
Image Source: @iakamin
The hairpiece I made for her was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever created. It took work, determination, and passion. I spent two days sculpting hair with wire. I had prototypes and sketches and took inspiration from her album, “Hypnos.” A Black medusa inspired the hairpiece I made. The hairpiece had a spiral in the middle to hypnotize the audience. She’s sweet. She cares about her family. She’s not Hollywood. You know, it feels like I’m working for a cousin.
Your work was featured in Vogue after doing Sky Jetta’s hair. How did you feel about that experience?
To have my work featured in Vogue was amazing because it showed me there are people who are interested in sculptural hair. I didn’t understand the title, editorial hairstylist. I was creating these pieces in my room because they looked cool. For Vogue to see that, I realized I was on the right path, and it opened up doors for my creativity.
Image Source: @thedenisestephanie
Sky Jetta said, “I’m gonna be in New York for AFROPUNK. I want some crazy hair. Do whatever you want.” I went out there, had fun, and experimented. The photographer liked how she looked, and that’s how we did it.
What upcoming projects are you excited about for the new year?
Image source: @sexyscalps
I just did a campaign with SheaMoisture in December. I have a project coming out in March focused on essential workers called The Black Avant-Garde. Black women who work at department stores, Chicago Authority Transit workers, construction workers— I want to give them avant-garde hair. I want to [photograph] them at work to represent how fluid we are with our hair on a dramatic level. Aesthetically, I think it’d be cool.
Johnson supports Black women and their entrepreneurial enterprises. She mentions avidly using Black-owned haircare products where she nourishes afro-textured hair. Even though Johnson accessorizes her clients’ braids, she ensures each strand is moisturized. Check out these brands that are suitable to prep the hair before styling.
