Cataanda James is a hair and beauty industry pioneer who has worked with global brands like L’Oréal Paris, Garnier, Our X, The Mane Choice, Carol’s Daughter, and more. She’s worn various hats, from brand educator, colorist, makeup artist, licensed cosmetologist, and a consultant for high-profile brand releases where she provides insights on product formulations. Her artistry and passion for beauty are reflected in her client relationships and her uncanny ability to help brands elevate their offerings with expert guidance and advice. As a curl expert and stylist, she’s worked with various clients and hair textures and values the crucial steps needed to take care of your crown.
We chatted with Cataanda about protective styles and the best way to prepare your hair before getting any braids, locs, or twists.
What is a misconception about protective styles?
One of the main misconceptions is that wearing a protective style will protect your hair. However, if your hair is not cared for properly or prepped for the protective style, you can experience an adverse reaction.
With a protective style, many people think that you don’t have to shampoo your natural hair, especially if it’s braided, faux locs, sew-ins, wigs, or weaves. When I hear that a client has been wearing their protective style for an extensive time, my first thought is, “You’ve been wearing it for how long? And you haven’t shampooed your hair, even with braids. You have had these in for two months, and there’s been no water to touch your hair or scalp.” That’s bad.
The base of every haircare regimen starts with cleansing. What should you focus on with products and scalp care?
A good moisturizing shampoo does not necessarily have too much protein within the formula because your hair will be braided with extensions. There may be some tension on the edges. While under there, you want to focus on something other than its protein content. You want to focus on the moisture when you take the hair out or the wig off.
When you take your hair out, you want to ensure it is properly nourished, specifically hydrated and moisturized. This means that you want to retain the water once it hits your hair. If you rock this protective style all the time, you should alternate with your protein-based formulas or maintain a healthy balance of protein and moisture.
Can you share why excess protein is bad for the scalp?
Protein could be a little bit tricky; you can actually get too much protein, which can happen with overconditioning. Having too much moisture (which we really know we can’t, we can’t drink enough water, and we can’t get enough moisture in our hair). Excess protein can lead to dryness and brittleness.
The main thing is making sure you’re properly hydrated. We’re caring for the scalp, so products like serums that you might be able to apply prior to the shampoo to soothe the scalp can be very helpful. When you have a protective style, it’s important to double or triple cleanse sometimes. I’m a fanatic about having a clean scalp. I triple cleanse if I have the time, but I always double cleanse.
Should you use a mask or conditioner after your cleanse? Or will it create too much build-up?
After rinsing the shampoo, you need to condition your hair. That’s going to further encourage moisture retention and the hydration of the hair. It also helps to sort of seal the cuticle on the hair, which is very important when you’re going in with the protective style; you want to make sure that it’s closed to avoid any internal damage.
Once you use a mask or conditioner, I always recommend a leave-in conditioner, particularly if you’re getting the protective style and you are going to blow dry your hair prior, which is pretty common when people get braids. You want to make sure that leave-in conditioner also has a heat protectant because it actually adds an extra layer of protection and nourishment to your hair.
Stylers are super popular right now. Is this always necessary if you’re getting a protective style?
It depends on the protective style; you may or may not need a styler, but if you are using stylers, I recommend a lightweight styler like a spray, foam, or mousse. Many foams nowadays aren’t just for hold but for conditioning as well, minimizing frizz, and helping define the curls. If you’re going to get a braid down to put your lace front on or a sew-in, you don’t need a styler; you can stop at the leave-in conditioner.
Are there any current braiding trends or regimens you recommend avoiding?
I don’t understand why people are using so much braid gel. I’ve seen many videos where people are layering and caking up the product (which is heavy and thick) and placing the product on the scalp to make sure the part is pretty while braiding the hair. I highly recommend that you stop doing this if you’re a braider because you face issues like clogging the pores and hair follicles, or someone can have a bad reaction to that product. There’s no oxygen that could get to the hair follicles because of that layer of product, and I’m not sure all the formulations are water soluble, which results in being unable to fully get it off the scalp when you shampoo.
Do you need to straighten or flat iron your hair before a protective style?
You don’t need to; however, depending on the style it’ll be easier for your hair to blend in with the weave, sew-in, or clip-in. I don’t really believe you need to flat iron unless you’re doing tape-ins or gluing your tracks if you’re gonna wear a nice sleek style. But again, protective styles help keep your hair healthy for as long as possible and protect it while under the style. You want to have the least amount of manipulation of your natural hair so that it grows nicely without all of the excess friction and tension.
Are you ready to book an appointment for a protective style? Read our expert recommendations for 25 Braiders That Stand on Business.