Product Application Tips: From Wavy to Coily

You bought the hottest new styling product, and you’re excited about trying it. Everyone is raving about it. But it just isn’t working for you. Your waves are flat, your curls are frizzy, and your coils don’t pop. 

With waves, curls, and coils, the type of product, the amount, and how you apply it can make all the difference between a good hair day—frizz-free, defined curls and waves—and a bad one. 

We asked curl stylists Latoya Moore (@curlqueen_latoya), DevaCurl stylist, and April Kayganich (@_thehalfrican) for their top tips for wavy, curly, and coily hair.

“It’s important to have the right product and application method for your hair texture,” says Moore

Some top tips include:

1. Even distribution: Proper application ensures that the product is evenly distributed throughout your hair, which helps achieve a consistent style. Uneven application can result in patches of hair that look different from the rest, leading to an unpolished appearance.

General Tips for All Texture Types:

1. Start with Clean, Wet Hair:
   • Apply products to clean, damp hair for better absorption and even distribution.
2. Sectioning:
   • Divide your hair into manageable sections to ensure the product reaches every strand.
3. Use the Right Amount:
   • Start with a small amount and add more if needed to avoid overloading the hair with the product.
4. Distribute Evenly:
   • Use your fingers, a wide-tooth comb, or a Denman brush to distribute the product evenly.
5. Layering Products:
   • Apply products in layers (leave-in conditioner, cream, gel) to provide moisture, definition, and hold.

Tips for Wavy Hair (2A, 2B, 2C)

1. Lightweight Products:
   • Use light gels or mousses to enhance waves without weighing them down. Avoid heavy creams and oils.
2. Application Technique:
   • Scrunching: Apply products to damp hair and scrunch upwards to encourage wave formation.
   • Focus on Roots and Ends: Apply a small amount of product at the roots for volume and at the ends for definition.
   • Root Lift: Apply a small amount of product to the roots for volume and avoid flattening the crown.
   • Diffuse or Air Dry: Use a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer to dry waves without disrupting the pattern or let your hair air dry.

“A good surf spray is great for styling hair quickly while creating the perfectly tousled look,” says April Kayganich (@_thehalfrican).

Kayganich loves Hairstory’s Undressed. “Spritz all over damp hair generously and then scrunch or diffuse. Another of her favorites is I Create Lift Volumizing Foam from Innersense.

“I love to scrunch this in wavy hair to apply and then diffuse on a low setting,” says Kayganich.

Moore loves DevaCurl SuperMousse and DevaCurl CurlHeights Cream Volume + Body Boost Cream. She uses a quarter-sized amount of mousse and a dime-sized amount of cream.

“Apply the mousse to damp hair by scrunching upwards from ends to roots,” says Moore. “Follow up by applying cream to the hair and smoothing it over the hair while scrunching to define waves.”

Check out how Brooklynstore gets defined curls using mousse, gel, and oil, as well as scrunching and plopping.

Tips for Curly Hair (3A, 3B, 3C)

1. Moisturizing Products: Use creams, leave-in conditioners, and gels that provide moisture and hold.
2. Application Technique: Apply products while the hair is soaking wet to lock in moisture. Use the “praying hands” method to smooth the product along the hair length, then scrunch to enhance curl definition. 
3. Layering Products: Layer a leave-in conditioner with a curl cream and a gel to provide hydration and hold.
4. Styling Methods:
   • Praying Hands Method: Apply the product by smoothing it along the hair length with the praying hands method, then scrunch to enhance curl definition.
   • Rake and Shake: Rake the product through your hair with your fingers and then gently shake the curls to set their natural pattern.
   • Plopping: After applying products, use a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt to plop your hair, which helps to define curls and reduce frizz.

“A good cream can go a long way,” says Kayganich. “ Hairstory Hair Balm is her go-to for Type 3 curls. “ It’s very moisturizing to help when your hair feels dry from being in a pool or dipping in the ocean. I like to rake or scrunch this product into the hair.”

Kayganich also likes The Doux Crazy Sexy Curl Honey Setting Foam. Pump some foam into your hands, rake through detangled hair or use the Black Detangler Brush by Felicia Leatherwood to apply your product to already detangled hair.

“If you want to ensure maximum volume, work in sections and brush from under the section,” says Kayganich.

Moore likes to cocktail products. She mixes a dime-sized dollop of DevaCurl Styling Cream with a quarter-sized amount of DevaCurl Ultra Defining Gel on curly hair.

“Apply cream to wet hair in small sections and follow up by gliding gel over hair while the head is flipped forward and scrunching hair upwards to define curls.

Keishahirih’s favorite technique for her Type 3 curls using Innersense Organic Beauty – Natural Quiet Calm Curl Control and Pattern Beauty Strong Hold Gel.

Tips for Coily/Kinky Hair (4A, 4B, 4C)

1. Rich, Moisturizing Products: Use thick creams, butters, and oils to provide intense moisture and reduce shrinkage. 
2. Product Application: Use a dime-sized amount of Plumping Primer, applying it in small subsections on soaking wet hair. Follow up with a quarter-sized amount of Ultra gel in small subsections to achieve hydrating and defining coils. Flip the head forward and slightly shake to remove excess water.
3. Styling Techniques:

• Finger Detangling: Detangle your hair with your fingers while applying products to minimize breakage and ensure even distribution.
• Twist or Braid: Twist or braid sections of your hair after applying the product to define curls and reduce shrinkage.
• Stretching Techniques: Use banding, African threading, or Bantu knots to stretch your hair and reduce shrinkage while it dries.
• LOC or LCO Method: Apply products in the order of Liquid (leave-in conditioner), Oil, and Cream, or Liquid, Cream, and Oil to lock in moisture.

I recommend Uncle Funky’s Daughter Curl Magic Curl Stimulator to her coily clients.

“This gel is creamlike due to aloe vera being the main ingredient, so most people can get away with using this alone,” says Kayganich. “A little bit goes a long way (too much, and you’ll feel a little sticky). Remember to emulsify the product in your hands before applying. Make sure your hair is soaking wet. You can use clips to work in sections to work quickly and efficiently.”

Kayganich recommends starting from the bottom and working your way up. Rake a small amount through detangled, really wet hair to create definition throughout. Continue through each section, then air dry or hover diffuse.

She also likes Innersense Organic Beauty – Natural I Create Shine Glossing Serum, a lightweight serum that adds shine and definition. She uses this to soak wet hair using a raking motion with both of her hands and then she’ll air dry or diffuse.

Moore mixes DevaCurl Ultra Defining Gel with DevaCurl Plumping Primer using a dime-sized method and a quarter- sized amount of the gel. She applies it in small subsections. For best results, she suggests using a diffuser or a hooded dryer.

See how Yazzbratzz gets defined curls using Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Oil Curl Creme Gel, Olaplex No. 6 Bond Smoother, Olaplex No. 7 Bonding Oil, and Concentrated High Shine Oil.

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