Search Results: Cozy Friedman

Maybe it was the moment when I brushed my hair and the classmate sitting behind me yelled at me for shedding on her desk.

Or it could have been the time I noticed that my hair — and the hair of many of my chemically relaxed friends — had a noticeable orange-red tinge, a combination of damage from over-processing and the rusty water from our dorm showers.

Whatever it was that pushed me over the edge doesn’t matter at this point — I just know that in October 1998, I decided I was going to transition to wearing my hair in its natural state, as curly and nappy as that happened to be.

Transitioning is a term used among many women, particularly black women, to describe the process of converting one’s hair from a usually straightened state to its original curly texture. The fact that there’s a name for the process implies that transitioning is not as easy as it sounds — a mental as well as physical change often has to take place before one is totally comfortable with her hair.

Ericka Guy, a 29-year-old Michigan native now living in the Orlando area, said she never knew what her real hair felt like since it had been heat-treated or chemically processed from the time she was a child. For her, going through the transition process meant she had to learn for the first time how to care for her own hair in its natural state. Her transition lasted less than a year, as she started with putting her hair in braids, moved to cutting her hair short and texturizing and finally growing out the texturizer.

“After the texturizer, I had no idea what to do with it,” Guy said. “I asked around, tried to investigate different products. It was totally different from anything I had ever done.”

Sometimes the physical process of returning to natural hair is the easiest part. For women who are used to hearing negative comments about nappy or curly hair all of their lives, deciding to transition to natural can be a game of mind over matter as they learn to deal with their own fears.

Guy faced that issue as well, but was thrilled when she finally cut it all off.

“At first my reaction was ‘oh my god,’ since I had never had it that short before,” she said. “But I couldn’t believe how freeing and how easy it was. I got a lot of compliments.”

For those of you considering transitioning, there are a variety of ways to complete the process. Most transitioners usually try at least one of four options.

There’s the lengthy way of clipping off the chemically treated ends bit by bit until the natural hair grows to the desired length. That can take years — in my case, it took about a year and a half to grow my desired 12 inches of hair. A drawback of this method is that you’re often left dealing with two textures on one head and you have to find a way to make it look halfway decent.

Other women choose to texturize the new growth, which is a milder relaxing process. Guy said that helped her get used to what her natural hair might feel like and allowed her to learn new ways of taking care of her hair. Some natural hairstylists advise against texturizers, saying they still can cause damage because they are a chemical process, no matter how mild. Guy, in effect, did a double transition — first from chin length and relaxed to short and texturized, then to completely chemical-free. If texturizing is used as an option, it should be remembered that processing damage can still occur.

Then there are alternate styling options that allow one to leave the chemically treated hair un-manipulated while the new hair grows in. Braids, weaves and wigs are popular choices since they hide or cover the relaxed hair while the new nappy or curly hair grows. Braids and hair weaves/extensions can be left in for a month or more and then redone later. Some women will keep braids for a year and cut off the chemically straightened ends once they get the length of natural hair they want. Like the other choices, there are drawbacks to this method as well — the natural hair can become dry and brittle if braids and weaves are left in too long, or if the natural hair underneath the braids/wigs/weaves isn’t rinsed and moisturized during the process. Ask your stylist for advice.

The most dramatic option — but often the option that leaves women and men the most satisfied in the long run — is simply cutting it all off one day and emerging with a short, curly afro style. Among many in the natural community, that style is affectionately known as the TWA, or teeny weeny Afro. As the shortest of the transition processes, chopping it off forces you to into a crash course of dealing with your new hair right then and there. And for others, cutting it all off can take a lot of courage for women living in a society where long hair often equals femininity.

Guy recommends going for the chop.

“Why not start completely fresh? You get to know yourself and your hair. And you can save yourself from that stage of embarrassment where you have part of your hair that’s straight and part that’s nappy.”

My own transition took about two and a half years, likely because I didn’t realize I was ‘transitioning’ at the time. I also had no idea how to go completely natural. The women I knew who grew out their relaxers usually returned to pressing their hair regularly, like the older women in my family.

It started when I went for a relaxer touch-up, a reapplication of the chemical straightener to the new growth, one day in October 1998. A month later, when it was time for me to go for my regular touch-up appointment, I just decided I wanted to grow the chemical out of my hair. However, I didn’t plan to go completely natural — I just planned to use a hot comb and flat iron to straighten it, like I did when I was a child.

By the summer, I realized it was too hot and humid to continue the heat process, so I started to put my hair in braids. After two months, that got too expensive and I began to slick it back into a bun. This was the beginning of my mental transition process — I began to notice my cute little curls and naps and grew to like them. Perhaps it wouldn’t be so bad if I wore them in their natural state.

However, as one of those women who always had long hair, I was scared of cutting it off. I had to problems with other women who did so, but oh no, I just couldn’t do that. I was not one of those women who could ‘do’ short hair. So from June 1999 to March 2001, I went through the process of trimming the relaxed ends bit-by-bit while my natural hair grew out.

Looking back, I would have cut, or ‘big chopped’ my hair earlier — it would have given me more time to learn about the texture of my naturally curly hair and enjoy a totally different look. Plus, when I see my old pictures of half-nappy, half stringy-straight relaxed hair near the beginning of my transition process, I realize how silly my attempts at a style probably looked. Another part of my mental transition was learning that short hair isn’t a bad thing — it’s just as beautiful and feminine as long hair!

Once the transition is complete, it’s time for a whole new step — learning how to care for your naturally curly hair. Sometimes, frustration with this process can cause one to return to the old tried-and-true straightening method, which erases all the hard work done up to this point! And who wants that?

Corine Marie, the owner of Haircolorists.com, a salon in Winter Park, Fla., outside of Orlando, helped me with the final stages of my transition process in early 2001. My hair was about 80 percent natural then. I learned that the oil-laden products I had used on my straightened hair only dried out my naturally curly hair and I had to learn how to find and apply new treatment and styling products. When I moved from Michigan to Orlando, I searched NaturallyCurly.com’s salon database and found quite a few positive recommendations for Corine.

“You have to make sure you go to a stylist that likes curly hair,” said Marie, a ‘straightie’ who loves hair in all states. “You don’t want to get a stylist who wants you to go back to straightening it.”

Sounds obvious, but I do remember visiting a few stylists during my transition who heat-pressed my hair by my request and then said, “Why don’t you just go back to the relaxer?” Glad I didn’t listen — I don’t mind temporary heat straightening for an occasional style change, but I’m not going back to the relaxer!

Marie cut off the rest of my relaxed ends and then introduced me to a variety of conditioners that I learned were rich in glycerin and some silicones. She told me to condition every day even if I didn’t shampoo daily. Soon my hair was incredibly soft and growing like a weed. We also tried styling products to make my hair look great from casual to glamorous occasions.

“It’s all about product,” she said. “And keep getting regular trims to keep it healthy.”

I get my hair trimmed about four times a year now, and Marie trims it in its natural state. She’s always trying out some new conditioners and styling products on my hair to see how they might work on the other curlyheads that come to the salon.

I think I finally got it right last summer, when my hair not only reached the length I wanted, but it was healthy and downright cute to boot. It may have taken five years to finally undo the negative physical and mental conditioning afflicted on my curly hair, but it was worth it. It may not take as long for some women to transition and for others, it might take longer. Just remember that transitioning is a process, and for the health and well-being of your hair, it pays to be patient.

Photo by iStockphoto.com/Steve Debenport

Cozy Friedman is a stylist and the founder of Cozy’s Cuts For Kids, a children’s salon in New York City that first opened in 1994. She went on to launch her own hair product line, SoCozy Professional Hair Care for Children, and published a book, Cozy’s Complete Guide to Girls’ Hair. Cozy is one of the original NaturallyCurly columnists and a long-time curlfriend, and she has been generous enough to help our readers over the years with their most pressing questions about their kids’ curls.

Concern: Dry/brittle/frizzy hair

My 15-month-old son is biracial and his hair is very curly but also very dry/brittle/frizzy. I’m not sure what my routine should look like or what child-safe products I should be using. From reading tonight, I do know I need to stop washing his hair so much and also get him a satin blanket for the crib and scarf for the car seat. Can you help?

Answer

You are off to a great start already by just decreasing the frequency of shampooing! The next step will be to start using conditioner as much as possible. It can be tricky with a 15-month-old, because you obviously don’t have unlimited time to condition and rinse after doing the same with shampoo. I recommend that you use a use a product that lets you do both at once, in order to maximize your time. Try So Cozy Cinch 3 in 1 Shampoo + Conditioner + Bodywash. In between wash days, while you aren’t shampooing, be sure to use a leave-in conditioner. So Cozy Cinch Detangler + Leave-In Conditioner is great because it’s a spray-in, so it’s very easy to apply and it smells absolutely delicious, so your son will actually like it!

Concern: Frizz at the crown

My 2 1/2-year-old daughter is biracial. Her hair is pretty managable but since it has started growing it seem the hair on the crown will not define like the rest of the hair. It gets frizzy. I have added more leave-in but it still gets frizzy only on the top. Why is this?

Answer

It’s not unusual for toddlers to have more than one type of hair texture, as new hair is growing in. The key is to do what you are already doing—treat it differently than the rest of the hair. I would recommend using a little lightweight styling gel to help define and hold the curls. Be sure to use an alcohol-free gel such as So Cozy Boing Curl Gel-Cream so that hair does not get dried out.

Concern: Refreshing a 3-year old’s hair

My daughter has got a ton of curly hair, and since she is only 3 years old, it is up to me to do her hair and I want to do it right. She is mixed, white/Hispanic, and I think she is a 3c, very tight, fine curls and lots of them. My problem is what do I do with her hair each day? It looks great after we wash it. I leave in conditioner and comb out the tangles and that’s it. However, the next morning it is crazy and since we only wash it about once or twice a week she only has one good hair day. Now she is only 3 so she could care less but soon enough she will be all about her hair and I would like to know how to take care of it and how to keep the tangles out when she sleeps. Any suggestions are appreciated, especially since I have straight hair and am absolutely no help for her. I am learning as we go along! Thank you!

Answer

It’s fantastic that you don’t over-wash her hair! That’s the most common mistake I see with parents. In between shampoos and conditioning you will need to redefine the curls (remove the frizz”>. It’s not complicated—you just really need to find the right product for her hair. My first thought is that a spray leave-in conditioner will do the trick, since you had good results from your conditioner. Spray So Cozy Cinch Detangler + Leave-In Conditioner throughout her hair, making it slightly damp and then “scrunch” curls with your hands to help redefine the curls and remove frizz. It really only takes a couple minutes and it will be easy for your daughter to do herself when she’s a little older.

Concern: Finding the right style for my daughter

I am the mother of a beautiful 8 1/2-year-old who will only wear a ponytail. She has 3b hair underneath and most of her hair around the top from the middle of the head up is probably 3c and fuzz. Two years ago I had her hair relaxed and only touched up once. She only has about one inch of straight left on the ends. Mostly her hair just turned back curly as the relaxer didn’t seem permanent in places. It was a Mizani relaxer done at a salon. Her hair has changed. I used to be able to let her wear some curls but now it is just pure fuzz. I have used all sorts of products—none of them seem to last on her hair.

I really want to know about braids. I don’t have experience with them being a redhead with board straight hair. I had an African American woman tell me once to never never braid my daughter’s hair. She said it will pull it out and make sores on her head. I can french braid but she has breakage from wearing it all these years in one ponytail that it never stays put. I have often pulled it up it two high ponytails on her head then turned each ponytail into two braids, French braided it and various other things and the moment she hits school, she takes it down and puts it into one ponytail.

Any suggestions? Types of braids or products people can’t live without? Right now we use Mizani shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Conditioner and plain old shea butter. I have used Mixed Chicks, Carol’s Daughter, Paul Mitchell and the list goes on.

Answer

The way I see it, you have two issues. First, you are definitely in the “in-between” stage where you really need to let her hair grow out and get rid of the damaged hair caused by the chemicals in the relaxer. Unfortunately, there’s no way around it. Time and using a great, thick creamy conditioner will help.

The other issue as I see it is that you and your daughter need to be more in agreement. If you are doing her hair and then she is re-doing it when she gets to school, it doesn’t do either of you any good (and it’s not great for her hair either”>. There comes a time when you have to let children be themselves and wear their hair the way that makes them feel comfortable and good about themselves. I cannot begin to tell you how often I see this issue in my salons and it happens at all different ages depending on the child. I’m not recommending that you give up and just let her wear the pony, but maybe if you can find out what it is about the pony that makes her feel so comfortable, you will be able to use that information to figure out and work with her on another style that you will both be happy. Look at magazines and on the web to find style ideas. Lastly, braids are fine as long as she doesn’t only wear it braided and you don’t pull them too tight.

What’s your biggest concern when caring for your kiddos’ curls?

This article was originally published in 2010 and was updated in 2018 to reflect new recommendations.

These days shea butter is all the rage. You have probably spotted shea butter as a key ingredient in many types of shampoo, conditioners, hot oil treatments, soaps, lotions and creams. This article explores shea, what it is, where it comes from and how curly topped people can reap the benefits of this unique African product.

The Origin of Shea

The shea tree is a member of the Sapotaceae family Vitellaria parasoxa C.F. Gaertin., formerly called Butryrosperum paradoxum. Shea trees are found exclusively in the African Sahel, a semi-arid region south of the Sahara Desert. Shea tree is native to Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Chad, Cote d’Ivoire, Ghana, Guinea, Mali, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal, Sudan, Togo and Uganda where it is distributed in parklands, dry savannas and forests. Shea trees grow between 150-200 years. The nut of Vitellaria pradoxa is almost 50% fat.

Shea butter is one of numerous non-timber forest products that make significant contributions to rural African societies. Shea butter, known locally as ‘karite’ in the Dioula language, is also called Women’s Gold because it brings women significant income. Shea butter has been traded as a commodity at least as early as the 14th century. Today shea butter is the third highest export product in Burkina Faso. It is one of few economic commodities under women’s control in Sahelian Africa. The trees have been tenderly cared for by women farmers and their children for hundreds of years, yet with the steady rise in popularity of shea butter in international markets some concerns have arisen. Agroforestry and environmental organizations fear over-harvesting of shea nuts could contribute to land degradation, eventually leading to desertification. This is one of the reasons I also advocate use of alternative butters such as mango butter, which is almost identical in efficacy and usage.

While in the west we utilize shea almost exclusively in cosmetics, in Africa it has diverse uses. For the Mossi people of Burkina Faso, shea butter is the sole source of dietary fat. Groups in Burkina Faso and elsewhere use shea to make soap, healing balms, cosmetics, candles, lamp oil and waterproofing putty for housing. Shea wood is used for creating tools, flooring, joinery, chairs, utensils and mortar and pestles. The wood also creates a fierce heat and can be prepared as a substitute for kerosene, yet the trees’ destruction for fuel is discouraged because of its more prominent medicinal uses and economic contribution to African villages. The root and bark are used medicinally. Many types of imported chocolates contain shea. Shea butter is exported to Japan and Europe to enhance pastry dough pliability and to enrich chocolate recipes. (Shea tastes buttery and nutty just like it smells, sort of like almond paste. Shea doesn’t have a lingering taste and takes on the flavor of other ingredients that is why it is probably so popular as a food additive.”>

In Africa and around the world shea butter is utilized for its ability to soothe children’s skin, soften rough skin, protect against sunburn, chapping, irritation, ulcers and rheumatism.

The Making of Shea Butter

Creating shea butter from nuts is a monumental, labor-intensive task, involving huge amounts of water and wood, as it is made on an open wood fire. Along with the assistance of their children, West African women almost exclusively run the production of shea butter processing. Manufacture takes place during the rainy season. Preparation takes several days. Nuts are collected; boiled; sun dried; hand shelled; roasted and then crushed with a mortar and pestle. Water is added and a paste is formed. Several women knead and beat the paste in a pot until a skim floats to the surface. The fat is cleansed repeatedly, yielding white foam. The foam is boiled for several hours. The top layer is skimmed once more and this yields the white shea butter we commonly use.

Golden Shea is called ‘women’s gold’ because of the economic benefits woman’s harvesting work brings communities. Recently, I had the opportunity to try a lovely shea with a golden color imported by African Shea Butter Company (Terra Organics”>. I enjoy the golden shea butter immensely because it retains the smells of the open wood fires on which it is created in Africa.

A huge drawback to botanical products and natural cosmetics is the connection to people across the globe through plants. Shea butter is a way that all of us can make connections to our sisters in Africa, possibly making a positive impact on certain aspects of village life. Delving into a jar of golden shea can spiritually transport the user back to the African village in which shea butter was processed.

Using Shea Butter

Shea butter is remarkably high in unsaponifiables—up to 11% (this varies”>, giving natural UV protection. This is one of the reasons it is beloved by Africans whose skin and hair is almost constantly exposed to sunny and sometimes harsh weather conditions. The UV protection is useful elsewhere as well. Having some UV protection enables our hair to retain its natural vibrancy, color treatments and softness.

The emollient, (softening”> quality of shea butter makes it useful for hair and body care, as it is easily and quickly absorbed when applied topically. Shea butter is very dense and may be too heavy for oily or certain types of hair. Hair that is thin yet curly or wavy hair may become weighed down from shea. For those enthralled by its benefits who would still like to try it even though they have a lighter-textured hair I recommend using the shea butter as a hot oil treatment (see below”> followed by an astringent rinse of 1 part apple cider vinegar to 3 parts water. People who wear their hair in locs and use shea as a pomade will also find periodic astringent cleansing useful if they want to avoid oily build up that may occur. Oily build-up on locs weighs them down and makes them attract unsightly lint, dust and dirt. For locs, perform the astringent rinse monthly or bi-monthly depending on how frequently you are using shea.

Hot Shea Butter Hair Treatment

Still, for most types of hair, shea is a good hot oil treatment, wherein it is melted, cooled slightly, then applied warm to the ends of hair where split ends occur and to the scalp. Using a clean (art”> paintbrush is a handy way to apply the warmed oil to scalp. Part hair in sections as you work. Work quickly, before the shea solidifies. Put on a plastic cap; sit out in the sun, if possible, or under a dryer for at least 30 minutes. Alternatively, cover head with a bath towel to retain heat. After a half hour shampoo thoroughly and rinse. Shea adds shine and softens.

Hair Pomade

Africans have been using shea butter as a hair dressing for hundreds of years. This application is highly recommended for super thick, curly, kinky or dry hair. * Pomades are useful for those with naturally curly or wavy hair who want to smooth their hair for an elegant up-do like a chignon or French twist — this works especially well on freshly shampooed, wet hair.

Scoop out about a teaspoon of shea butter in the palm of hands (use less for short hair and more for longer hair”>. Place your palms together. Rub gently, using your body heat to melt the shea butter. Once shea transforms from solid to liquid, rub on your hair. Then style as usual. This is fine as a weekly hair dressing pomade for gloss and shine.

Socio-economic Implications of Shea Butter

African Shea Butter Company (whose name is changing to Shea Terra Organics”> and L’Occitane en Provenece make two of my favorite shea products lines. These two companies’ products are created using a unique approach that not only improves the hair and skin but also impacts some rural African village economies. UNIFEM, an organization that helps women in developing countries, helped broker a deal between L’Occitane and a co-op run by African women. L’Occitane buys much of its shea butter directly from Union des groupements Kiswendsida (UGK”> a large network of over one hundred shea producers. Without middlemen, all of the profit returns to the villages from which shea butter is harvested and manufactured. L’Occitane offers a full line of products featuring shea butter. These products are expensive, but the rich formulas allow the products to stretch a long way, making a smart beauty investment. The L’Occitane hair care line includes the Ultra Rich Hair Mask, which I have found to be very effective for helping damaged ends and dry hair. Milk Shampoo is moisturizing, useful for all hair types, particularly in winter or summer with the extremes of temperature experienced in many zones. Shea Hair Conditioner is good for normal hair and though there is heavy emphasis placed on ‘damaged’ hair, plenty of naturally curly tops have normal hair that does not need ‘intensive’ treatment. Then there is the Pure Shea Butter that makes an excellent hair pomade, end treatment and hot oil treatment. These products are available all over the country and internationally by mail order. Learn more here, including the story of the collaboration between the company and African women’s shea co-ops. African Shea Butter Company (Shea Terra Organics”> is a woman-owned and operated mail order firm. I interviewed Tammie Umbel, founder and sole proprietor of this company. It is apparent that Umbel’s company’s main object is helping African people, through trade, using traditional methods, materials and indigenous plants. Umbel contracts with African soapmakers; wraps her soap line in traditionally dyed African fabric and indigenous papers. African Shea Butter Company sells a variety of high-grade shea butter products that will appeal to the do-it-yourself type as well as though who prefer to purchase prepared products for resale or personal use.Umbel is now reaching out to other women’s cooperatives that harvest and manufacture baobab and black seed oil, lemon grass and bourbon geranium essential oil. Quite impressively as well, the CEO is also the mother of ten children. Dealing with natural oils from Africa is her way of contributing to the well-being of not only her clientele but also of her very large and still growing family. This shop has a website.

Benefits of using shea butter

• Prevents dryness of the skin & hair
• Protects hair and skin from the sun
• Soothes burns
• Highly moisturizing for skin and hair
• Improve skin softness and suppleness
• Ideal for dry or sensitive skin
• Prevents and treats scalp dryness
• Provides good lubrication for the hair resulting in improved brilliance and manageability
• Soothing, moisturizing and protecting effects
• Anti-aging & anti-wrinkling properties

Have you tried Shea butter on your hair? How did your hair react? Share in the comments below.

Read next: 5 Ways to Use Shea Butter (That You Haven’t Tried Yet”>

There are a couple of ways people cope with kinky, curly or wavy hair.

First, we tend to fuss with it, reaching for heat instruments, chemical relaxers, chemical treatments or torturous hairstyles that “tame it down.” You know, keep it in control.

Then there are those who are happy to let their hair do its thing, finding pleasure in its many twists and turns.

Like most of you reading this article, I’ve been in both places. Most of my youth was spent having my hair cared for by others: greased-up, pulled back, poofed up, smoothed down, pressed hard and, alas, relaxed until it was lifeless and the scalp of my very sensitive head was blistered, scarred and scorched.

For nearly the last decade, I’ve been in the second camp. To start the journey, I found pleasure wearing a very short, close-cropped ‘fro. I’ve worn my hair in phat plaits, minute micro-braids, sculptural corn-rows, Goddess braids, double-strand twists with and without extensions and Nubian knots. The beauty shops found a good client in me. It was from the double-strand twist that my hair decided to lock up on its own, and now they trail well past the middle of my back.

What has been the common thread while in both camps? A plant known as aloe vera.

Aloe Vera Gel

Aloe vera gel is a boon for us kinky, curly gals. It helps fix damage from heat appliances. For natural sistahs in the other camp, aloe vera should be one of your staples.

Aloe vera is the styling aid nonpareil, smoothing as it is soothing, controlling without stiffness. If you wear your hair straightened, heat set, flat-ironed, pressed, corn-rowed, French braided, micro-braided, Sengalese twist, Nubian knotted, straw set, afro-puffed or in a straight up afro, this is the natural ingredient for all of you. That is why it’s showing up as the main ingredient in a growing number of hair products for curly hair.

Just as there are two camps, there are different ways to use aloe:

• Use aloe vera after procedures that cause burns and for the treatment for blisters and scars
• Use for setting of any type of wet hair (braided ‘wave set’, ‘rod set’, ‘straw set’, hard curler set and so forth”>
• Use as an astringent (reduces oily build up”>
• Use as a styling aid to emphasize wave pattern, curly texture for men, women and children and certain pets
• Use as an African setting aid: for French braids, corn rows, lock maintenance, micro-braids, etc

There’s much more to know about aloe vera, this widely available, inexpensive, animal and earth friendly herb.

Aloe is a succulent plant with clusters of long, bayonet-like leaves that is prickly at the edges and tips. It can produce a woody stem up to 15 meters tall. It has spikes of flowers in various colors, including yellow, orange and red.

The aloe plant has a lengthy history in Africa and the Middle East. Prospero Alpino reported Egyptian women perfumed their genitals with aloe. Aloe was used in remedies to treat fever and plague. The plants grew in Somalia in the times of Alexander’s conquests. In the Bible, aloe is referred to as “ahaloth,” and is recorded as a perfumery herb. The Copts used aloe with other ingredients to treat eye disease, swelling and other disorders.

In recent history, people felt they could gain health benefits from orally consuming aloe juice and the gel. Aloe does contain volatile oils and aloins that are very purgative. Because of its purgative quality, it shouldn’t be used if you are pregnant or have hemorrhoids. Consumption of aloe in large quantities could prove very painful. As it stands, there is no thorough scientific test to show consuming aloe has health benefits.

The Jamaican people have a great adoration for aloe, which they call “Sinkle Bible.” In Jamaica, it is used to cut the sweetness in the blood. It is also used to purify the blood, cleanse the system and calm the nerves.

Aloe Vera Gel Recipe

Today, aloe is mostly used in skin- and hair-care products. Here’s an easy way you can make aloe vera gel right at home.

1. Purchase a long aloe stalk at the green grocer, botanica or fruitera, or an entire plant from a florist if desired.
2. Thank the aloe for sharing her medicine with you.
3. Cut off just enough of the leaf as is needed.
4. Slit it open using a penknife or sharp kitchen knife.
5. Scrape gel into a plastic bag, plate or container.
6. Apply to the area to be treated or styled.

Aloe is widely available in health food stores and even in regular drugstores and supermarkets. I recommend purchasing the product pure and organic for your hair, skin and scalp.

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Aloe Hair Products

Butters, Puddings & Custards

Naani’s Natural’s Fallen No More Frizzies Aloe Vera Gel

Blended Beauty Curl Styling Butter

Blended Cutie Down & Out Styles

Shampoos

Fairy Tales Super Charge Detangling Shampoo

So Cozy Swimmer’s Shampoo

Alagio Silk Obsession Silk Smoothing Shampoo

Circle of Friends Ana Banana Shampoo

Curlisto Aqualizer Clarifying Shampoo

Curlisto Botanical Shampoo

John Masters Evening Primrose Shampoo

MYHoneyChild Banana Creme Scalp Cleanser

Jane Carter Solution Moisture Nourishing Shampoo

Hair Rules Aloe Grapefruit Clarifying Shampoo

Conditioners

Wen Cucumber Aloe Cleansing Conditioner

Blended Cutie Soft Curls & Swirls

Fairy Tales Detangling Conditioner

Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner

AG Fast Food

AG Hair Cosmetics Stimulating Balm

Alagio Silk Obsession Silk Smoothing Leave-in Detangler

Batia & Aleeza Bio-Protein Conditioner

Circle of Friends Dragon Dance Conditioner

Curl Junkie Coffee-Coco Curl Creme

Curl Junkie Curl Rehab Moisturizing Hair Treatment

Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Deep Fix

Curlisto Botanical Rinse

Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque

Curlisto Protein Boost

Curlisto Repair Styling Cream

Curly Hair Solutions Slip Detangler

Fairy Tales Lemon-Aid Conditioner

Fairy Tales Rosemary Repel Conditioner

Fuzzy Duck Kids’ Conditioner

Jessicurl Aloeba Daily Conditioner

Mop Top Deep Conditioner

Refreshers & Sprays

Blended Beauty Kick For Curls Aloe Spritz Juice

Curl Junkie Curl Fuel Curl Enhancing Spray

CurlFriends Rejuvenate Texturizing Mist

Fuzzy Duck Detangler & Refresher Spray

Hamadi Shea Spray

Jessicurl Awe Inspiraling Spray

Stylers & Lotions

Blended Beauty Curl Styling Lotion

Blended Beauty SilkShake

Blended Beauty Satin Style Detangler

Alagio Silk Obsession Silk Smoothing Serum

CurlFriends Control Gel

Curlisto Bio-Gel Mousse

Curlisto Curl Reform

Curlisto Matte Stay

Fuzzy Duck Anti-Frizz Gel

Jessicurl Confident Coils

Kinky-Curly Curling Custard

Circle of Friends Erik’s Shaping Gel

Philip Pelusi Phyto-Life reCurl

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Stephanie Rose Bird is author of “Four Seasons of Mojo: An Herbal Guide to Natural Living” and group for eclectic practitioners of earth-based spirituality using her books as study guides:

Pass the 5 Finger Test

We love helping our curly community problem solve their curls. Especially when they’re this cute!

For many mothers dealing with curly kiddos, detangling is a major challenge. Here is how one mother tackles the task in her daily routine, using Just For Me products. The ultimate test: Can you easily run all five fingers through your child’s hair at the end of your wash day activities? #5fingertest

If you answered no, then we recommend products with lots of slip, a wide tooth comb, and gentle, gentle finger detangling. Watch the video for the full routine, or simply to have an adorable 3-year old brighten your day!

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Watch the Video

Products used:

Just For Me Hair Milk Nourishing Cream Cleanser

Just For Me Hair Milk Smoothing Edges Creme

Just For Me Hair Milk Curl Perfecter

Dear Cozy:

I have a 5-year-old daughter, and from what I can tell, she has multiple hair types: 3b underneath, 2c in the middle, 3c on the sides and 4a up top. Her 3b curls are gorgeous, but those sit underneath the rest of her hair, which is my problem. She is biracial, so we don’t wash every day, and I have recently started cowashing, with a moisture treatment after. We do a full wash once a week. hair is dry, and it’s coarse in the 2c and 3c areas, and of course she has fly-away. I have tried everything (at least it feels that way”>, I have an entire shelf of products that have done nothing for her hair. I need a regimen that will help me get her beautiful curls all over, so she doesn’t have to wear her hair up all the time.

Curly Mom:

Wow, you have quite a challenge with a head of hair like that! The good news is that you are way ahead of the pack in the knowledge that you already have about your daughter’s hair. I suspect that if you have tried so many products and you haven’t achieved the results you are looking for, perhaps it’s not the products you need help with, but the way in which you are using them. It’s hard to say without knowing all the details of your routine, but here’s some general rules of thumb:

1. Never, ever brush her hair. Instead, while in the bath, run your fingers through her hair like a comb when you are conditioning her hair. You can do this daily to hydrate and detangle at the same time.
2. My secret tip: don’t completely rinse out the conditioner, especially on the ends. This will give extra protection and hydration to her dry hair.
3. Squeeze out excess moisture, and do not rub her hair with the towel to dry it. Instead, wring out hair and “scrunch” in alcohol-free gel to help the natural curls form.
4. Let hair dry naturally when possible or use a blow-dryer with a diffuser attachment. This will allow the natural curl to form without frizz.
5. When hair is dry (or nearly dry”>, scrunch in a light styling cream (like So Cozy Kooky Kiwi Styling Cream“> to smooth hair and lock in curls. This will also help to prevent the frizz.
6. Whenever needed, spray in a leave-in conditioner/detangler to refresh curls and smooth hair. Your daughter will love So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler & Leave-In Conditioner.

Celebrity stylist Christo has compiled a list of 5 products to help you create romantic and glamorous wedding hairstyles that will make you shine like a star on your big day. Choosing the right products could very well be the difference between your style lasting just a few hours, or making it through the day.

1. Heat-Protection Glaze

Apply Straight Time Glaze on wet hair before using a flat iron or curling iron to ensure that your hair will remain smooth all day long.

2. Mousse

Bio Gel Mousse is a great mousse that will promote body for thinner textures. Simply mix a little with Straight Time Glaze before applying onto wet hair.

3. Shaping Spray

Simply spray Shaping Spray onto finished style and enjoy beautiful hair all day long. This product offers extreme hold without stiffness or flakes, which is why celebrities love to have it on the red carpet. Make sure to carry a 2-ounce travel size for touch-ups.

4. Finishing Product

Glow & Shine is a perfect finishing product to give you a touch of shine. This non-oil spray will only give you shine, shine, shine. Make sure to carry a 2-ounce travel size for touch-ups.

5. Pomade

Finishing Pomade is great for smoothing out flyaways and making sure that every strand is in place. Also great to share with the groom to keep his hair looking perfect, too. Simply apply to hair before using Shaping Spray and enjoy your day.

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Christo has been a bridal design specialist for magazines such as “Bride & Groom,” “Get Married” and “People en Espanol” in addition to being featured on a Reelz television segment on the royal wedding.

Dear Cozy: I need to take my 6-year-old curly twins for their first haircuts. My friends go to your location on 84th and Madison and overheard that there’s a stylist there who specializes in curlies. How can I find out who that is? Or is there someone at one of the other salons? I’m very nervous about this haircut (one of them is donating to Locks of Love since her hair is very long”>.

A: You are smart to inquire about a stylist who specializes in curly hair! We actually have a few stylists at each of our salons that are amazing with curly hair, so no need to worry.

What I recommend to you is to call the location that is most convenient and ask who would be great for curly hair & find out their schedule. If you’re not in NYC, you can use the salon finder to find curly kids’ hair salons in your area. It’s a tough question for me to answer, as many of our stylists work in a few of our locations and their schedules do change. But have no fear—the receptionist will surely guide you to the right person.

Don’t forget to bring your video camera for the special occasion!

On the “Non-Hair Discussion Board” at CurlTalk, I have spent much of the past four months complaining about the winter that just ended. We got one heck of a lot of snow here in London, even by Canadian standards! A normal winter sees us get 220 cm (88 inches”> in total. By February 2nd, we had hit 235 cm (94 inches”>, and there was so much more by the end of March.

It’s time for those of us in the Northern Hemisphere to cast off the sweaters, socks and thermies and welcome spring! Here’s what’s hot for 2011:

The Tokidoki Soda Shop Palette – I admit that I am a sucker for the packaging from this Italian (NOT Japanese”> company. It’s cutesy and sort of animé and the kind of thing a person 1/3 my age would probably like. This reusable tin box contains 9 eye shadows, an eye liner, a nail file in the shape of Tokidoki character Sandy, a character magnet and a sheet of stickers. ($49 US exclusive to Sephora”>.

OPI for Sephora Nail Polish Collection “Glee” – 7 colours inspired by the characters of the hit television series. $9.50 US for each full-size polish, or a set of 6 minis (minus the lime green shade”> for $24 US, also exclusive to Sephora.

Benefit has a new block blush called Bella Bamba. This is a watermelon-pink shade with gold undertones ($28 US”>.

Orange is the IT colour for lips this spring —try the Josie Maran Magic Marker Lip & Cheek Stain in shade Jive ($19 US”> or Make Up For Ever’s Lab Shine Lip Gloss in shade D20 ($18 US”>.

If you’re going to do bright lips, it’s best to tone down your eyes. The Urban Decay “Naked” eye shadow palette sells out as fast as it gets to stores, so several other companies are getting in on the act—Too Faced has a Natural Eye Collection ($35 US”> or you could try the Lorac Private Affair Palette that comes with a mini eye primer, sponge-tip applicator and 6 eye shadows ($38 US”>.

Or try a pastel like the Hello Kitty Charmmy Eye Shadow Stick in shade Cream Puff—a shimmering lavender ($16 US”>.

Kat Von D has her “True Romance” eye shadow palette available in a pastel version called Truth—8 soft shades of greens, peach, and lavender. ($34 US at Sephora”> And there is the Tarina Tarantino Floriculture Palette, also 8 shades of eye shadow to take you from day to night ($38 US”>.

I am one of those people who tends to wear the same perfumes year-round, but for those who like to switch to lighter, fresher, scents, there are a few new ones this year, most notably Jennifer Aniston Lolavie. The notes for this fragrance are listed as: citrus grove accord, rose water, night blooming jasmine, wild violets, Amazon lily, musk, amber and sandalwood. Fragrance blogs are reporting that it is “beachy” in nature.

For fans of Bath & Body Works scents, the new addition to their lineup is Carried Away. The description from the company says that it contains “lush raspberries and juicy pear nectar with white jasmine and whipped vanilla” along with bergamot, Meyer lemon, mandarin, freesia, tuberose, violet, sandalwood and musk.

I’m just looking forward to the lily of the valley that blooms in my garden!

While most experts agree that hair strands are dead, many mysteries of hair remain unsolved.

No pulse or nerve endings can be found in hair, and yet this supposedly dead substance can undergo radical and unexpected changes.

Side effects from medication and anesthetic affect the hair to such an extent that even the strongest perm solutions won’t penetrate. Hormone imbalance during pregnancy can alter the structure of the entire head.

From fine, straight hair a wave can occur, evolving into a full head of curls . . . sometimes lasting a couple of months, sometimes forever.

The most unusual change I ever witnessed was when a regular client with natural brown hair color lost 60% of her color from roots to ends overnight, after her husband had a severe heart attack . . . I can only presume that it was totally stress-related. Restoring hair damage is a creative challenge to even the most enthusiastic hair stylists.

Because hair is porous and has the ability to absorb, we can control what we put into the hair strand. The key is knowing what minerals need to be deposited. There are a lot of unknown facts about hair.

Every day researchers discover something new—making hairdressing in the 21st century a very exciting time.

Gabrielle, aka chocolatetresses, shows you how to style the natural hair of a toddler.

Quinoa

We’re hearing more and more about the miracle “grain” quinoa—mostly as a tasty super-food, but also, increasingly, as an ingredient in hair care products. Let’s learn more about this high-protein food, which though commonly referred to as a grain, is technically not a grain.

Quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa Willd.”>, pronounced KEEN-WAH, is also called Quinua, meaning “mother grain,” in Inca language. Other names for Quinoa include vegetable caviar and Inca Rice. While it may seem new to many readers, it was a staple in the Inca diet and is still enjoyed regularly by the Quechua and Aymara people, who are their descendents. Quinoa has been consumed consistently over the past 5,000 years by people who inhabit the mountainous and valley regions of Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador and Chile. The indigenous people that have enjoyed Quinoa believe it enriches and oxygenates the blood.

Growth and Habit

Quinoa is an annual herb. It is related to the useful weed lambs-quarters (Chenopodium album L.”> and it is a relative of several types of beets and spinach. Quinoa plants have a wide range of heights, ranging from 1½ to 6½ feet and come in an array of colors that include white, pink, purple, dark red, yellow and black. Its leaves resemble a goose foot. The seed comes in large clusters on a panicle resembling sorghum—about the size of millet. The seed has two flat surfaces and a rounded side similar to an aspirin. The seeds range in color from black, to red and pink, white and yellow. Quinoa is a hardy, drought-resistant plant that grows well with little rainfall and at high altitudes.

Quinoa tends to grow in South America in areas that are drought-prone, with hardly any fertility. The plants can tolerate light frost but should not be exposed to temperatures below 28 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant’s seed is similar to sorghum at maturity.

Quinoa’s Nutrition-Packed Punch

Quinoa has recently burst onto the health scene and it is viewed as a super-food and a super crop. While treated like a grain in American cooking, Quinoa is a broadleaf non-legume and sometimes referred to as a pseudocereal. The protein in Quinoa is extremely high quality and much denser in protein than true cereals, which stem from grassy plants. Comparable to buckwheat and amaranth, Quinoa is higher in lysine (which promotes hair growth”> than wheat. The amino acids quinoa seeds contain are balanced in a way that is very complementary to animal and human nutrition. Quinoa is also lower in sodium and higher in calcium, iron, copper, zinc, manganese, potassium, phosphorous and magnesium than barley, corn or wheat. Minerals and amino acids have been proven to aid in the conditioning of hair and skin. Besides yielding a grain-like substance served like rice, Quinoa is also useful in the making of flour. Quinoa flour is used as a starch extender in combination with corn meal, grains and wheat flour, in the making of baked goods and processed foods. This useful plant is also used for cereal, different types of soups, and alcohol.

Quinoa for Your Hair

Quinoa offers accessible vegetable protein to gently cleanse and nourish your hair. Its amino acids help repair damage to the hair shaft while its proteins coat, strengthen and protect the hair. Packed with vitamins and minerals as well as amino acids, Quinoa can aid in hair growth while preventing breakage. Many new shampoos and conditioners are utilizing this beneficial herb. Look for hydrolized quinoa protein. This type of formulation is believed to form a protective barrier over the hair shaft, while it encourages sheen. Its humectants attract moisture from the air, while generally conditioning your hair, yielding a well-defined curl pattern and a sexy head of hair.

Nexxus recently launched a new product line—Phyto Organics ChromaLife Colour Retention System—that relies on quinoa’s amazing benefits. PhytoSpecific’s Moisturizing Styling Balm also contains quinoa oil. And Aveda’s Damage Remedy Daily Hair Repair contains quinoa protein, too.

It sounds like an ingredient definitely worth looking for!

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Stephanie Rose Bird is a practicing herbalist. She is the author of five books including, “The Big Book of Soul: the Ultimate Guide to the African American Spirit: Legend & Lore, Music & Mysticism, Recipes & Rituals,” published by Hampton Roads Publishers. She is also the author of the recently published, “A Healing Grove: Recipes and Rituals for Body and Spirit,” published by Lawrence Hill Books. Her website is at StephanieRoseBird.com.

Hair expert Dickey offers tips for curls

Rule #1

Make sure you’re using an appropriate cleanser. Using a non-suds, sulfate-free cleanser such as Hair Rules Daily Cleansing Cream will ensure your hair is left clean and hydrated, without stripping hair of its natural oils. This helps hair to retain its softness and pliability, which unleashes its optimal potential. Conventional shampoos can prevent textures from looking their best and make it difficult for you to recognize your true texture.

Rule #2

Using a non-suds cleanser also helps your conditioner work more effectively. Try using Hair Rules Quench Ultra Rich Conditioner. This thick, concentrated conditioner, hydrates, moisturizes and softens the driest, parched, hard hair.

Rule #3

For optimum results when styling, start with soaking wet hair. Apply a generous amount of product to further saturate the hair, preferably in the shower.

Rule #4

Do not touch hair until completely dry. When drying hair, use either portable hood dryer or a diffuser. If diffusing, use caution touching hair as to not disturb curl pattern.

Rule #5

Fluff and shake hair. Never comb or brush dry curls.

Your mother was right

As if you needed yet another reason to eat vegetables, new research shows that your skin actually looks healthier with the glow you get from eating foods rich in carotenoids.

Carotenoids are phyto-chemicals that create the orange, red and yellow pigments in many fruits and vegetables. They are mainly involved in the production of Vitamin A in the body. In recent years, carotenoids have been discovered to have anti-oxidant and immune-enhancing benefits. Studies indicate their efficacy in anti-aging products (retinol”> and preventing cancer.

You’ve probably heard that if you eat a lot of carrots, your skin will turn orange. This happens to be true; it’s even got a medical name—carotonemia. But you have to eat one heck of a lot of carotenoid-rich foods in a short period of time for this to happen. One enterprising gentleman in Germany ate nothing but carrots for two weeks to see what would happen and the palms of his hands turned orange-ish. The blog about his experience can be found here: The Orange Man Project.

While it isn’t advised that you eat such a restrictive diet designed with the express purpose of turning yourself orange, a recent study conducted at the University of Nottingham in England, shows that the golden cast to fair skin that comes from a diet rich in carotenoids makes skin look better. The researchers found that study subjects looking at the participants’ faces found those with the yellower tone to be more attractive and healthier in appearance. This behaviour has been noted in other species, too.

In addition to their presence in carrots, carotenoids can be found in cantaloupe, apricots, papaya, mangoes, peaches, red peppers, tomatoes and, surprisingly, peas, spinach and kale.

Of all the carotenoids in existence (more than 500″>, lycopene is one of the most important to humans. Found in abundance in tomatoes, lycopene has been found to be of benefit in protecting skin from sun damage. As I wrote in February 2008, lycopene has been discovered to be the most potent combatant of something called “singlet oxygen.” Singlet oxygen is produced during exposure to ultraviolet light, and is a primary cause of skin aging. In a study reported on BBC, a test subject ate increased amounts of tomato paste to gain increased natural protection from sun damage.

The health benefits of eating a diet rich in fruits and vegetables are well-known. Not only will you feel better, all indications are that you will look better, too.

It seems that mom really did know best when she told you to “eat your vegetables!”

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The study: Ian D. Stephen, Vinet Coetzee, David I. Perrett. Carotenoid and melanin pigment coloration affect perceived human health. Evolution and Human Behavior, 2010; DOI: 10.1016/j.evolhumbehav.2010.09.003

Dear Cozy:

I have a 3-year-old, I think 2C, who has dry hair and beautiful curls under, but the top layer is a little less curly. Her hair is always knotty unless she just gets out of the bath with a leave-in conditioner. And that only lasts for a little while. I would like a non-drying shampoo and conditioner, some type of detangler and some type of product to get the curls into shape the next day. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Dear Layered Curls:

For dry hair, you can’t go wrong with a lot of extra conditioning. Try a conditioning shampoo in addition to a great conditioner. I would recommend So Cozy 2 in 1 Tropical Fruit Conditioning Shampoo and then finish off with So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner. Both products have hydrolyzed wheat protein, which will really help to hydrate her dry hair. You also add a dime-size amount of conditioner to her ends and don’t rinse out. This will help add more hydration.

To help reset her curls the next day and help with hydration, use So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler & Leave-In Conditioner. So Cozy products were formulated specifically for children, so these gentle formulations are packed with vitamins and minerals to promote growth, while at the same time solving problems unique to children.

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Dear Cozy:

I wanted to get some advice on how to handle my little boy’s hair. He has tight curly hair that looks dry, and he is always scratching his head. His hair texture is similar to that of my husband, who suffers from dry scalp. I have stopped washing his hair with shampoo/body wash because I fear it is making it worse. I have been researching online for organic hair products (shampoo and conditioners”> to help moisturize his hair but I have found nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dear Dry Curls:

I think it would be a good idea to ask your pediatrician and rule out any medical issues, although it’s unlikely since you haven’t mentioned any rash or skin issues. I would also recommend doing a thorough lice check if his scalp is so itchy. Keep I mind that anyone can get lice and that it doesn’t have anything to do with cleanliness.

If you rule out all of the above and still have itchy head issues, I would limit the amount of times you shampoo, but not cut out completely. You do still need to cleanse about once a week. Be sure to use a gentle formulation made specifically for children, and I would recommend using a 2 in 1 Conditioning Shampoo like So Cozy Tropical Fruit, as it is enriched with wheat protein, which will help to maintain hydration.

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Dear Cozy:

I’m trying to use the shampoo free method on my 16-month-old who has lots of hair. Her hair is 4a. I used Aussie’s Moist Conditioner to co wash and as her leave in. I DO NOT LIKE how her hair feels. Also, there is gunk on some of her strands. As a side note, I used it in my hair for the same purposes and it seemed to work just fine. I’m a 3b. Is Aussie Moist Conditioner a CG approved conditioner? What should I use as a leave in and to moisturize her hair? Please please please help me. I do not know what to do. Thank you.

Dear Aussie:

This is the perfect example of the importance of using hair care products formulated specially for children! As you can see, your hair texture, needs, etc., are quite different from your child’s, so it’s no surprise that your child’s hair reacts so differently to the same product that you used.

I’m curious why you are using the “shampoo free method” on your little girl. Have you tried a gentle, tear free shampoo and not been satisfied? As for a leave-in, try So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler & Leave-In Conditioner. Aside from being a great detangler, it’s a wonderful Leave-In Conditioner that you can use as often as you’d like without the hair feeling weighed down or “gunky”.

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Dear Cozy:

I have a 3-year-old with beautifully curly hair on the bottom and all around her face. The problem is the top of her head — she has straight hair on top. I don’t know what to do with her hair. No matter what I do it looks like a mess. Most days I just end up putting a head band on her so that she can see (with her crazy hair it is always in her face”>. I just don’t know what to do with her two different hair types. And I’m not really sure what to do with curly hair because I myself have straight hair that won’t even keep a curl. My sister with curly hair says NEVER brush it, just comb; that does keep the curls from frizzing, but doesn’t help with the top layer. Any advice is VERY appreciated!

Dear Crazy Hair:

It is not unusual for a 3-year-old to have more than one hair type—it’s actually quite common! Eventually, her hair will make up its mind and it will all come together. In the meantime, here’s some advice. First, I’d recommend taking her to a stylist that you trust for a consultation. It could be as simple as putting in some long layers on top. Long layers will help lighten up the strands and encourage the curls to come out.

Next, I agree with your sister. Never, ever brush curly hair! It’s true that it will cause frizzing. It’s ok to comb the hair when wet, but then you need to let it dry naturally. If this is a problem with the top, even after you have consulted a stylist, you may want to consider some camouflage tricks. You are on the right track with headbands, but you can also try cute little clips and elastics. Everything with children is just a passing phase, and this too shall pass. Don’t worry!