Search Results: Cozy Friedman

Q: If my daughter was curly before she was two, and they’ve disappeared, does this possibly mean that the shampoo has stripped them away? Or does it mean that she just had the typical “kid loses curl” thing?? I’d LOOOOVE to have some of her wave back.

Cozy: This is such a common question because a baby’s hair can change so dramatically that it can be very suprizing! I’m sorry to say that most likely, your daughter is growing into her new hair, and that the curls were probably her baby hair. Our hair changes throughout our lives so it is best to try and embrace the “new look,” and work with styles and cuts that will look best with this new hair type and texture.

Q: What ingredients make a shampoo tearless. What are the pros and cons of these products?

Cozy: Tear-free Shampoos are created by using milder formulations than typical adult hair care products. Specifically, So Cozy Tear-Free Shampoo uses the much gentler ingredient PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, rather than the harsh Lauryl Sulfate which is found in many shampoos. Both are surfactants, which help cleanse the hair and remove grease, but the one used in So Cozy Hair Care products is much more gentle.

Q: My daughter is two years old, and I am quite frustrated with her hair. It’s 4a in the front and 4b in the back. I bought coconut oil, which I use as a conditioner after shampooing. I rinse it out. It leaves her hair soft. But her hair is still and gets drier as the day progresses. Her hair becomes messy during the day, and I make her wear a hat. That makes me feel frustrated. Can you recommend any products or recipes that I can try? I am thinking the coconut oil can be mixed with something else to make it lighter. Can you also recommend any styles that I can try on her her, i.e. cornrows and ponies?

Cozy: It sounds like your daughter is in great need of a good conditioner to protect, moisturize and nourish her hair. For very dry and frizzy hair, I would recommend a double conditioning treatment. Use So Cozy Sweet Strawberry in the bath AND a Leave-In Conditioner, such as So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler and Leave-In Conditioner, afterwards. Not only will she have 24-hour conditioning, but combing her hair will be much easier, which will prevent breakage and damage (which adds to that fuzzy look”>.

Q: I’m looking for new styles for my 6-year-old daughter. She has loose curls midway down her back. If we don’t do anything with it, it falls in her face. We’re both sick of headbands. What are some other stylish, easy looks?

Cozy: It is so difficult to recommend hair styles to someone with out seeing their hair or face shape, but it sounds to me like your daughter may benefit from adding some long layers into her hair. This may help keep it out of her face yet still make it possible for you to pull it back when you want to. You should look through hair styling magazines and books to get some ideas about styling ideas and other ways to put her hair back. I recommend that you experiment with her hair when you have time to play around and aren’t rushed or worried if the hair doesn’t look great.

Q: I have a question about my son. He’s 10 years old, and has beautiful curls. But he hates them. He always wants to cut his hair short to hide his curls. How can I help him to love his curls.

Cozy: The grass is always greener! So many people have had this problem (including myself”>. It took me nearly 40 years to embrace my curly hair! The best thing I can recommend to you is that you show him positive role models, celebs, athletes, etc that have curly hair. Accepting oneself the way you are is a lifelong battle for everyone — why should a 10-year-old be any different!

With summer in full swing, many of us are drawn to beaches, sun and sand. This article features Monoi Tiare (also called Monoi de Tahiti”>, the fabulous Tahitian oil featured in intoxicating soaps, shampoos, conditioners, oils and even styling pomades — all designed to protect the hair and skin from the ravages of salt water, overexposure to sunlight and everyday dryness we curly tops are all too familiar with.

What is Monoi Tiare?

Monoi (pronounced moh-noy”> means scented oil in the R’eo-Maohi language. Tiare (pronounced tee-ray”> refers to the gardenia with the Latin botanical name Gardenia Tahitensis. Gardenia Taitensis is native to the highland shores of Melanesia and Western Polynesia. It is an aboriginal introduction to the Cook Islands, French Polynesia and possibly Hawai’i.

Tiare is considered the queen of Polynesian flowers, and its delicate perfume is akin to the heady scent of tuberose or other species of gardenia. The flower is pure white, shaped like a pinwheel and set off by dark green. shiny foliage. A member of the fragrant family Rubiaceae, tiare grows on a small 4-meter shrub and it is nontoxic. Traditionally it is used in leis and placed behind the ears of vahines (Tahitian women”> and tane (men”>.

Monoi Tiare is exotic, aromatic oil created by soaking the tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis”> flower in carefully refined coconut oil. Typically the male plants are cultivated and utilized to create the scented oil since they produce profuse flowers.

Coconut oil is the foundation of Monoi Tiare. It is excellent carrier oil useful for dry, itchy and sensitive skin. Carrier oil is the vehicle oil to which other more precious oils are typically added in much smaller amounts (for example essential oils”>. Coconut oil is easily absorbed and astringent — thus, it doesn’t clog pores.

Appellation d’origine

Genuine Monoi Tiare must have the label “Appellation d’origine,” which specifies that a minimum of 15 tiare flowers are soaked in each liter of refined coconut oil. Monoi Tiare products with “appellation d’origine,” are authentic, and the designation is only granted to the finest products with a guarantee of superior-grade products. Appellation d’origine contributes to fair-trade and local money-making enterprises of Tahitians and other groups. It recognizes local traditions and customs involved with preparing Monoi Taire. Finally, buying Monoi Tiare products with Appellation d’origine means you are purchasing cosmetics that are richly imbued with the unique qualities of regional soil of the atolls, islands and archipelagos that yield the ingredients for the scented oil.

Monoi Tiare in Polynesian Tradition and Lore

Monoi is a traditional natural remedy beloved by various groups of Polynesians. Monoi is a very popular remedy in Polynesian traditional medicine. It is one of the main substances in French Polynesia’s traditional pharmacopoeia. It has been used to treat a variety of ailments, including earaches, migraine and headaches, mosquito bites, joint and muscular pain.

It has been important in ceremony and ritual as well. Monoi is traditionally used in religious rites and ceremonies that take place in “maraes,” an open-air consecrated stone temple. Maori priests of New Zealand in traditional ceremonial attire use Monoi to anoint sacred objects and to purify the offerings placed on the stone altars to honor various deities.

The flower is important at the inception of life, following one through life’s passages. The entire bodies of newborn babies are traditionally slathered with Monoi oil. During traditional funerals the body of the deceased is embalmed and perfumed with Monoi to ease passage to the next life. It is an essential element of a rich culture, and the flower that scents the coconut oil creating Monoi Tiare is the national flower and emblem of Tahiti.

Uses of Monoi Tiare

Gardenia tahitensis contains many useful chemical constituents that contribute to the medicinal qualities of Monoi Tiare. These include:

• Linalool—a volatile oil with antimicrobial qualities
• Methyl salicyclate—a liquid ester that eases muscle and joint pain when applied externally using therapeutic massage.

The union of Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis“> with highly refined Tahitian coconut oil produces aromatic oil that penetrates and hydrates the hair and skin. It seals the surface of the scalp, hair cuticle and skin, preventing dryness. It is renowned for protecting the skin and hair against salt water and sun damage. The oil is hypoallergenic, moisturizing and nourishing. The Tiare extract has excellent rejuvenating and conditioning benefits for the scalp and hair cuticle. Minor scalp irritations and itchy scalp is alleviated.

Monoi Tiare Hot Oil Treatment

Monoi Tiare is an especially effective hot oil treatment. To create a Monoi Tiare hot oil treatment, heat an appropriate amount of the oil for your hair thickness and length (between ¼ cup and 2/3 cup”> in the microwave (about 1 ½ minutes”> on high. Allow to slightly cool. Apply warm Monoi Tiare to the ends of hair where split ends occur and to the scalp. A clean, dry paintbrush is a handy tool for applying the warmed oil to scalp. Part hair in small sections as you work. Work quickly, otherwise oil will get cold. Put on a plastic cap; sit out in the sun if possible or under a dryer for 30 minutes. Alternatively, cover head with a bath towel to retain heat. After a half hour, shampoo thoroughly and rinse.

AHHHH! I love the summer. Moisture and humidity are now my friends. Since humidity will only increase if global warming really is upon us, straight jackets are not going to stand a chance. You’ll be blow-fried one minute and poof the next! I am just a hairdresser. I do not claim to know everything. But of this I’m sure. What your hair does naturally is as beautiful as it gets. It needs to be understood, nurtured and loved.

Q: I have very thick curly hair. I’m so sick of trying to grow it long. It is now a little above my shoulder and it seems like it’s been that length for a couple of years. My problem is my hair is growing “out” rather than down. It has long layers, so I don’t understand why it gets so thick when it dries. Do you have any suggestions for my hair stylist about how I should be styling it?
Lorraine: Puffy hair is caused by several things. 1. You still shampoo. 2. You touch it too much during the drying process. 3. You’re not leaving enough gel in your hair. Shampoos with sodium laurel sulfate (SLS.”> can also lead to chemical breaks, which prevents the hair from growing in a healthy way. SLS. is inorganic. It does not deserve to be in the company of your organic, priceless hair fiber. Cleanse the hair daily with DevaCurl No-Poo. Try this post-cleansing trick: Apply No-Poo to dry hair a few minutes before showering (this is especially good for thick, dense hair”>. This allows the hair to receive more moisture. Then wet the hair and work in a bit more No-Poo, rinse and add as much One Condition as you like. Comb through with your fingers, rinse a little out and leave the rest in. Until your hair is longer, don’t bend forward to scrunch but instead stay upright and squeeze out the excess water with paper towels or an old t-shirt. Add a palmful of Arc AnGel to your hands and distribute evenly, scrunching it into your hair. Put clips in at the crown and front of the hair and DO NOT DISTURB! Q: I used to have a head full of tight, defined curls. In the past year or so, I’ve noticed a significant change. No matter what products I use or how I scrunch or diffuse or twist, my hair will not curl like it used to. It’s now a full wave instead of a curl. As much as I hated and prayed that my curls would disappear when I was a young girl, I now miss them. Could this be a sign that I’ve done too much to my hair over the years with blow-drying, coloring, and over styling? Or is it more likely that I have just outgrown my curls because my hair has changed its texture over the years? Is there a way to get my waves back to curls again.
Lorraine: It could be that your hair is too long, you’re brushing it, you’re shampooing it, you’re coloring it or your hormones are changing. There are many variables.
Q: About three months ago, I got one of the worst haircuts of my life. The guy who cut it had straight hair, and he did everything you say not to do in your book: he layered it like a straight cut, texturized/thinned it, cut it wet, etc. Shortly after the cut, I discovered your book, and have been poo-less ever since. This seems to work well for me in terms of the health of my hair, except when I accidentally use too much product. Finding the right balance has been difficult. I have Botticelli curls, so the cut lopped off any ringlets and left me with a wavy, chin-length mess. I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I’ll have to let it grow out for a while until it can look halfway decent. But in the meantime, it looks pretty horrid. My boss, who has stick-straight hair (and lots of ideas about what hair should look like”>, actually came out and said she hates my hair, and wishes that I would comb it. She thinks it looks dirty and messy, and is embarrassed to take me with her traveling. To me, it looks and feels clean, but the cut leaves it slightly disheveled. I’ve been doing as much as I can to make it look decent without spending hours on it or just wearing a bag over my head.My question is this: What do I do in the meantime with such a bad cut? I’ve been doing as much as I can from your book, but it’s still pretty bad. I can’t use gel right now because it weighs down my hair too much, making it look dirty.
Lorraine: Just be patient, my sweet Morning Glory. Your boss is going to eat those words. Use Low-Poo at the scalp — as much as you would if you were applying a face cream. Rinse well. Skip the conditioner unless you need it at the very ends. After rinsing, and while you’re still in the shower, squeeze in B’Leave In. Get out of the shower and bend forward. Squeeze upright with your paper towel to remove the excess water weight. While you’re in the same position, apply a palm full of Arc Angell and evenly distribute it throughout the hair, squeezing it into the hair shaft. Use clips at the root to release the hair of water/gel weight, or put in a thin headband. Don’t touch it during the drying process.
Q: I have very thick, very coarse. dry hair (auburn with some gray”> with Botticelli curls that are prone to frizz. A year and a half ago, my sister-in-law gave me your “Curly Girl” book. I immediately started the curly girl method with no shampoo, leaving most or all of the conditioner in my hair. The result has been beautiful, shiny curls. I live in Colorado where the humidity is extremely low. Our first trip to a more humid climate was scheduled for this past December. I was looking forward to it, secretly hoping that now my hair would just curl tighter with the added humidity. Much to my dismay, all of my wonderful curl disappeared and was replaced by an enormous head full of frizz! Once back home, the shiny curls came back. We will travel to two humid climates this summer. What can I do to keep my curls and avoid the frizz?
Lorraine: Curly girls are natural weather barometers. Frizz factors reside in different climates on different days. My rule of thumb is to always use more rather than less. So what if you use too much One Condition on a certain day? So what if you use too much Angell? For Curly Girls, that can never hurt.
Q: I have had a wild curly mop of brown hair since I was little. I have always been the different one. All my friends have stick-straight hair. It’s hard to be 16 and fit in when you have what looks like a lion’s mane of curly hair. When I was younger, I would braid it up, twist it into a bun and yes, I hate to admit it, straighten it. Last year I put a lot of product in it to weigh it down and take the frizz out. In the beginning of February, a lady with curly hair came up to me and asked if my hair was natural. Then she recommended that I read your book “Curly Girl”. I read it in a day and loved every chapter. That very day I decided never to shampoo my hair with suds like “dishwashing detergent” again. It has been two months since I last washed my hair with shampoo, and it feels great. The frizz is gone, its soft, and radiant.I only have one problem with it. The upper half is healthy and loving the moisture, but it seems like the bottom two inches are still in distress from the previous mistreatment. The hair isn’t brittle or split, but it doesn’t have that healthy soft feel. I really hate to cut it off because I am trying to grow it out (Like Emmy Rossums in the Phantom of The Opera…I just loved that movie with a curly-haired heroine!”>. I have tried leaving conditioner on the ends after I get our of the shower. Do you have any ideas about how I could get the lower ends to look healthy?
Lorraine: It sounds like you’re on the right track. Are you using DevaCare One Condition? You must try this because it has the most intense hydrating factors you could ask for in a conditioner. Not all conditioners are created equal. Until you get the One Condition, use olive oil, shea butter or jojoba oil. Keep it in overnight and rinse out the next day. Then apply more conditioner after the first rinse and leave that one in.

Q: My 2-year-old daughter has inherited my curly (3b”> hair, but a baby fine version of it. It is in ringlets right out of the shower. But by the time it has dried, the curls have significantly diminished. It’s like her hair is too fine to hold the curl. I’m sure it will change and thicken as she gets older. But could you suggest any tips/styles/products to enhance her beautiful curls now?

Cozy: You are certainly correct that her hair’s texture will change as she gets older. In the meantime, here are a few tips to keep her curls looking bouncy rather than limp. First, her haircut is very important. Make sure that she gets a nicely layered haircut to enhance her curls. Otherwise, the hair will be too heavy to curl. I always recommend bringing a photo from from a magazine that shows a style you would like. Second, make sure to use a very light styling cream that will not weigh down the curls. I recommend a dime size amount of So Cozy Kooky Kiwi Styling Cream scrunched into her hair after bath. Just make sure to distribute it evenly. Do not brush her hair after that. Let curls set.

Q: My daughter is 3 years old. I am Chinese and her father is black African. The texture of her hair is quite fine and thin like Chinese hair, but is very dry and frizzy. I have tried various black hair products, but it makes her hair shrink into very tight curls and look very greasy. And other hair products leave her hair very dry. She currently has no hair-care routine because I haven’t got a clue where to start. Please advise me about some possible hair care products, and also a hair-care routine I should be using with her.

Cozy: I can understand your confusion! It sounds like she really needs some good moisturizing and conditioning products. Perhaps it isn’t which products you are using, but how much you are using. Continue to try products made for African American hair and try using much less. Check out CurlMart, and such brands as Blended Cutie and Mixed Chicks. Also, your daughter definitely needs a good leave-in conditioner. Try So Cozy Fruity Delight Leave-in Conditioner & Detangler. It is enriched with Sweet Almond Oil to to lock in moisture and Vitamins E & A to moisturize and soother hair & scalp.

Q: My son is 7 months old. He has very tight, kinky hair, like his mommy. That means his hair is always thirsty! I know exactly what works for my hair — conditioner washing. But I don’t know anything about conditioners to buy for babies. I know they have conditioner for toddlers on up, but I’m not sure about young babies. I like to keep the products as natural as possible. For example, I use olive oil, and it has helped a lot to keep his hair from drying out. I’m not expecting his hair to look picture-perfect at all times. After all, he is a baby, and a very active one at that! He spends a lot of his time rolling from back to tummy, trying to crawl, and grabbing at EVERYTHING including his hair! I am just trying to keep it moisturized, so any help would be appreciated!

Cozy: You are smart to look for products formulated with gentle ingredients, specifically created for young, sensitive scalps and hair! Try using So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner. Instead of rinsing completely, leave in a tiny bit on the ends for extra conditioning. I do that with my own hair, but often prefer to rinse completely and then scrunch in a tiny amount, just so that I can control how much I am leaving in.

Q: I am the mother of a gorgeous 9-year old girl with fantastic curls. I am Caucasian and her father is African American. We shampoo and deep condition twice a week, and we rinse and run regular conditioner through it every other day. The only problem is that lately we’ve been noticing flakes in her hair. I assume it’s dandruff, but I am afraid to use a dandruff shampoo in her hair because I’ve heard they are very harsh. I need help!

Cozy: It’s hard to comment on whether or not your daughter has dandruff without seeing for myself, but it sounds to me that she probably has product build-up that resembles dandruff. Make sure that you are using alcohol-free styling products, which won’t dry out hair and cause flaking. You may consider using a purifying shampoo once or twice a week to remove any product build-up. So Cozy Green Apple Swimmer’s Shampoo will gently remove any chemicals or impurities left in the hair, not just chlorine. It’s made with orange extract to gently remove impurities.

Q: My 2- and 9-year-old boys have thick, blond curls, which recently have gotten much more coarse. I have avoided using products in them in the past (since they both have eczema and weren’t taking a lot of baths, I didn’t want all that stuff just sitting in their hair”>. I would like to find something that will soften up the texture a bit, but I don’t want to lose the curls. What do you think would work? They are taking more baths/showers now since they have to wash off the pollen from playing outside and I have a little more freedom with their hair. I just don’t want anything that will attract bugs/bees etc.

Cozy: You have two distinct issues: moisturizing and curl enhancement. Let’s start with moisturizing. It sounds like your kids need major moisturizing to soften up the coarse hair. Aside from a great conditioner (So Cozy Sweet Strawberry”>, you need a leave-in conditioner that is gentle enough that they can use everyday. Try So Cozy Fruity Delight. To enhance those gorgeous golden curls, do NOT brush or comb after bathing. Instead, use a light gel (alcohol free for sure”> and scrunch into your hair with your head upside down. You can blow dry with a diffuser or just let air dry. Let the curls form and set naturally.

If you’re anything like me, you love that rush you get after a couple hours of solid exercise. You feel fit and amazing and ready to conquer the world! But let’s be honest, do you really want to deal with your hair after working out? There aren’t too many great options for getting your hair back into shape afterwards.

I’ve taken ballet and jazz classes at least three times a week since I was four. I might not be as ripped as other people, but I can dance rings around them! I have longer curly hair, and it’s hard to dance with my curls flying around and whipping me in the face. So with my usual stash of bobby pins and elastics, the hair usually goes into a high ponytail or bun. For those curly non-dancers who have sports practice every morning, or a session at the gym, you probably do the same thing. Maybe for shorter lengths, a headband or some clips will help hold it back.

After the workout, you all know what happens. The curls look a little wilted, and you get the little halo of damp curls (maybe frizz”> around your face. And when you take out all the hair doodads, you can still see the hair indent where the ponytail was. You have no idea what to do with it for the rest of the day!

Fear not, friends! I find that my hair springs back to life quicker and curlier if my hair is completely dry when I first put it up at the beginning of my workout. I know, it takes about a million years for our thick locks to dry. But it really bounces back easier this way. Along with the dry hair, I try not to yank the hair back in the ponytail. Not only is it not flattering for most faces to slick the hair back, but it doesn’t work for curlies as a rule. I don’t use a comb or brush to pull it back because that just creates a whole mess of frizz. Trying to get it that smooth and tight just causes breakage on any hair type. The looser the ponytail, the more intact the curls will be later on.

It is possible to reconfigure the hair by showering, styling, and diffusing all over again. But that is rather time-consuming. And time is something most college students don’t have enough of. I know all you students have no time for such trifles with all the studying you do!

I find that the best method for me is to carry around a small spray bottle wherever I go. My hair cocktail changes every once in awhile, but it usually consists of water, a little leave-in conditioner, and some thin gel. I don’t like putting thicker gels in because it clogs the spray pump. I just shake it up and spritz it all over. Most days I just get the curls barely damp and use my fingers to scrunch it back into place. You can experiment with practically anything: honey, avocado oil, olive oil, essential oils — anything that already works with your locks.

Happy exercising, my curlies!

How do you care for your curls after a workout?

Spring is truly in the hair. I have been a hairdresser for 28 years, and I feel it more now then ever before. A tidal wave, if you will, of curly girls are coming out from all over this Curlywurld. But we still have a lot of work a’head. We are still trying to understand this organic force of nature that is above us, and sometimes truly beyond us.Not to worry, as long as we stick together and be a part of the change.This world will be ours and curldomination will prevail .

Q: You, The Hair DresserSince you’re a leading stylist in the world of curly hair, I’d love to know some of the curly hair trends. It seems like stylists are always focused on growing curls out. But I’d love to cut my hair really short, and I need some ideas. I want a funky, Bohemian but current Afro for 3b to 3c hair. If you have any images, I’d love to see them.  Lorraine: I agree with you. I love seeing shorter shapes- – just shapes in general. I have never met you so to be realistic, I can’t send you images. The truth is that it’s all about you and only you. Take a good long look in the mirror. Look at your hair right now as it is. Then imagine it shorter. Make sure you are honoring its naturalness. Also be sure to cut it dry, whatever you decide to do. And remember less is more at first.
Q: I’ve been following a no-poo, conditioner wash-only routine for a week now, and it seems that my hair is getting less curly. I’m pretty bummed because I wanted to have beautiful curly hair, but I think I might need to go back to straightening it. I’m not sure I’m doing your routine right. On days that I don’t conditioner wash, my hair looks especially dull and stringy. Is it OK to conditioner wash everyday?
Massey: Straight BackwardsGirlfriend, don’t even go there with the straighteming thing. Are you threatening me or your hair? I think you’re not cleansing your hair properly. Maybe you’re using too much product? Make sure you rinse thoroughly. It sounds like you have a low frizz factor. Yes, it is OK to use conditoner to cleanse as long as you’re massaging and removing dirt particles and buildup from the scalp. Get out of the shower and scrunch upwards. Apply B’Leave-In first and then Angell. Clip hair at the roots and do not disturb until thoroughly dry. Loosen gel cast and your authentic self will prevail.
Q: After reading “Curly Girl” a few weeks ago, I decided to stop shampooing. My hair already feels healthier and looks better than it did when I was shampooing every day. My only problem is my mom is convinced that it’s gross to not wash my hair. She’s stick straight, of course. She just doesn’t get it. How do I explain to her that you don’t need to wash your hair everyday.
Massey: Mommy DearestWhen you are first telling someone you are not pooing your hair with detergents, you, of course, will get a reaction because shampoo is all we know. It is our only (brainwashed”> form of reference. It’s what we think clean is supposed to be. Remember: You are not washing laundry here. You are cleansing the most beautiful, priceless fabric in this entire world. Also your hair is visual. It is already looking better in this seemingly unconventional way. Your hair speaks for itself. Remember your scalp is an extention of your facial skin. Would you put shampoo on your face? Sodium lauryl sulfate, which is in all lathering shampoos, also is in dishwashing and laundry detergents.
Q: My hair looks pretty 3b, but underneath it is soooo curly and I get really bad shrinkage. I’m so tired of my hair never looking any longer because the more it grows, the more it shrinks and curls up on itself. It makes my hair look like a triangle. any suggestions to reduce shrinkage?
Massey: Talk To Your ShrinkHow frustrating is that! My hair does the same thing. I call them “hermet curls.” This is what I do: After cleansing with No-Poo and One Condition, I apply B’leave-in and Angell. Clip the ends of the hair to elongate the curls underneath. This provides extra gravity to those lightweight babies [ Curly Girl page 125]. I call it “weight a minute.”
Q: I find that my biggest issue with my hair is that the curls stack on top of each other. It really isn’t frizz. It’s just the curls get tighter and shorter as they dry, and there isn’t any other direction for them to go than up. Is this a haircut issue, or am I using the wrong products? I love my hair when it is wet. But as it dries, I stop liking it. I now use Frizz-Ease Serum. What should I do?
Massey: Up, Up And a ” Way “There is always a way. Have you tried growing your hair out? Obviously the weightlessness makes it contract and cluster. If you grew it out, gravity would bring the curls down and separate them. I suggest putting extra B’Leave In into your hair after you’ve One Conditioned. And finish off with some extra Angell. That also has weight-bearing elements. Also try putting clips on the ends of the hair as it dries to elongate the curls. When you use extra Deva products they don’t make your hair look or feel crispy. Frizz-Ease just sits on the hair and suffocates it.
Q: I’ve read the “Curly Girl” book and just started on your process of better caring for my Boticelli curls. My hair is rather dense and takes upwards of four hours to dry. Before I started your routine, I would let my hair air dry overnight. I’m trying to let it dry in the morning — getting up a few hours early. But this still doesn’t seem to be enough time. Should I continue to do this, or go back to letting my hair dry overnight? I’m pretty busy and am not terribly satisfied with the results I get when I diffuse. Any words of wisdom would be fantastic!
Massey: Sleep-in BeautyI think if you have been having better results sleeping on it, go back to that. Actually the clip routine is simulating weightlessness. It is a good alternative for when you’re horizontal rather than verticle. This is not for everyone. It’s better on longer, low-frizz factor Botticelli and Cockacelli curls.
Q: I have wavy/curly, thick hair. I love straightening it and everyone says how cute it is when it’s straight. I feel more confident with it straight, too. I never feel comfortable going out without it straightened. But it takes sooo long to do. Any ideas on how I can make it look sexy cury? I need more time to sleep!
Massey: Is Your Hair DYING To Tell You Something?It’s the placebo effect playing with your mind. If you don’t work with your own beautiful hair and you blow fry your curls, of course you’re going to get compliments, and your fake confidence rises. To me, that’s the equivalent of wearing a girdle that makes you look slimmer and makes your bust look larger. When you get home, you have to take it off and face the truth. One day, you find you’ve gotten tired of lying to yourself, and actually want to do something about it. Words aren’t going to do it. But if you want to come to New York City, we will give you an intervention workshop for when your’re truly ready to commit. I’m here for you.

This month, NaturallyCurly.com is happy to introduce our newest Curl Expert, Dana Kaplan of M Salon in Cambridge, Mass. He has worked as a stylist for 35 years, and has gained a reputation as one of the top curl stylists in the country.
Q: My hair is really driving me mad, and I need some advice! My hair is fine and soft (frizz isn’t such a problem”>. There’s quite a lot of it. However, the top layer of my hair is almost completely straight, while the bottom layers are curly to varying degrees (very tight corkscrews at the front, looser more wavy curls at the back”>. The result is that it looks a complete mess most of the time. I’ve tried scrunching/diffusing my hair but the curl on the top layers simply won’t hold. Do you have any advice about how to even out the curliness? I’m really fed up looking like I’ve got three different people’s hair! Every bit of advice I’ve seen in magazines assumes curly hair is dry and/or frizzy AND evenly curled. It seems like no one else has the same problem as I have!
Dana: I would try to add more layers at the top. Use products with extra hold, and try adding some pern rods or small rollers (available at beauty supply stores”> to the top area where the problem is. Use hair spray, made for curly hair, sit under the dryer or diffuse upside down until it’s 100 percent dry. Remove the rods and keep diffusing. Then flip your hair back. Fluff with fingers. Don’t comb or brush! Finish with holding spray.
Q: I’m Sophie, and I’m a 14-year-old girl with long, dirty blonde, curly hair. It’s about three inches below shoulder length. I’m looking for a new style for my hair because it’s getting a little boring. I’m looking for a shorter curly hair style that I could still put up in a ponytail because I play a lot of sports and it needs to be manageable. Maybe bangs or just wisps of hair?
Dana: Try an angled bob with long layers for variety. A few highlights would also be fun. Keep it at least neck length so you can wear it up or down
Q: I have long, naturally curly hair that is one length. I have a long, narrow face, and it is essential that I have height on the top. I’ve tried a couple of “root lift” products, but they just add weight and make it flat Without getting my hair cut in layers, is there a way to have tight curls and height on the top? Maybe a root perm? Or can you suggest a lifting/curl-enhancing product or technique that really works?
Dana: Try duckbill clips at the crown. Hold the hair at the top up and pin it with duckbill clips at the root area. Try a holding spray and diffuse your hair upside down until it’s 100 percent dry. Then flip it back and fluff it with your fingers. You might also want to try longer layers. They do make a big difference.
Q: The hair on my scalp is naturally thick and dry. One memorable, sad experience was when I went to a different hairdresser two years ago. This guy was extremely reckless and unprofessional as he ”plucked out” my hairs using his scissors along the edge of my fringe (around the left side area above my forehead”> from my scalp. To this day, that horrible experience left an island of semi-baldness and short sparse hairs within an otherwise normal area of scalp hair. There is hair growing, but it’s really thin (I can see through the hair and notice my scalp”>. Secondly, the hair is very loose and does not stand up like the rest of my dry, thick hairdo in the front, which makes it look very uneven. I have been looking for a hair care specialist who has expertise in semi-bald hair problems, and certainly one who can suggest to me effective natural remedies to repair the damage quickly. Bottom line: I want to restore it 100 percent. What can you suggest?
Dana: I’m sorry to disappoint you, but you have to be patient and grow out your hair. It will take at least 6-12 months. If your hair is very thick, curly and dry, use products rich in moisture and do deep treatments at least once a month. I also recommend supplements like biotin, which will help speed the growth.
Q: My hair is very strange, It curls naturally in the back. But the front is usually stick straight. Most hairstylists don’t know what to do with it. What should I do?
Dana: Try adding some layers at the front . Then curl it with a curling iron or set it in rods using a good holding spray. You can also try a soft perm on the straight area only! 
Q: I have big curly/wavy hair and I want something that won’t give me volume — or at least not too much volume. Can you please recommend a hair styling product I could get in a drugstore?
Dana: Are you brushing your hair after you wash it? Try combing it in the shower only to remove tangles, with a wide-tooth comb, then rinse conditioner only half-way out, leaving a little slip feeling. Gently towel dry by squeezing the water off the hair and use conditioning spray. Comb it with your fingers. Then style by sections, starting with the back and moving forward. Use a liquid gel like Ouidad Tress FX or Paul Mitchell Styling Glaze, smoothing the hair with your fingers. Use a lot of product — enough to soak your hair. Then diffuse until it’s 100 percent dry without touching hair. After it’s dry, use a hair serum to break up crunch by smoothing it back like you’re making a ponytail. Hold it and then spray it with a styling spray, and leave it alone. If that doesn’t work, try a texturizer to soften your curls. Remember: A brush and curls don’t mix!

Once upon a time there was a little curly girl who liked to play with her aunt’s miniature Avon lipsticks. These were samples handed out by the Avon Ladies to customers so that you could “try before you buy”. Today we rely on swatches in the Avon catalogue that are helpfully labelled Warm, Cool and Neutral so that we can choose the shades that suit us best and avoid the mistake that 10-year old me made of wearing yellow eyeshadow and bright pink lipstick – together.

Maybe your first trips to the adult world of makeup involved your mom’s bottle of Chanel No. 5 or a furtive swipe of your older sister’s Russian Red lipstick from MAC. Most of us start with an experiment with someone else’s makeup.

Whether or not you are allowed to wear makeup when you start junior high or high school is a decision your parents will have to make with you. Because I attended a Catholic junior high with a dress code, Bonne Bell lip smackers and Love’s Baby Soft perfume were all I was allowed to wear when leaving the house.

The most important thing you can do for yourself in your teen years is to start a good skin care routine. It’s especially important now when your skin is prone to blemishes and breakouts. Not only will it lay the foundation for beautiful skin into your elder years, it will help fight off the breakouts.

Use a mild cleanser like Cetaphil Gentle or Bioré Shine Control Foaming Cleanser. Avoid scrub products with crushed apricot shells. These can break the skin and spread infection if you’re in the middle of a breakout period. Today’s scrub products use tiny plastic microbeads that are smooth and won’t tear your face.

If you have acne, try to keep your hands off your face. The dirt that your hands pick up as you go about your day sticks to skin oils when you touch your face and sits there clogging pores.

Remember, too, that acne is not caused by diet – it’s adult hormones producing that oil. A healthy diet doesn’t hurt, however, and try to drink more water to flush out toxins.

Don’t pick!!! I know how tempted you must be to squeeze pimples and blackheads, but I can tell you from personal experience that doing so leaves scars. These last years longer than teen acne and are more difficult to get rid of.

If you feel you need a toner after cleansing, use one without alcohol. Witch hazel is a popular alternative to commercial toners that is inexpensive and available everywhere. Toner is not a necessary step in cleansing, though many people like it to help remove every trace of cleanser.

Most people find that they can get through acne breakouts using over-the-counter products. The companies with the widest range of readily available acne-treatment products are Bioré, Neutrogena and Noxema. Proactive is available through infomercials and their website. Persistent and severe or cystic acne usually requires medical intervention. Your doctor may prescribe a topical treatment, or medication, or a combination of the two.

Even oily, blemish-prone skin requires a moisturizer, however, the lightest versions you can find are best for your face during these years. Neutrogena’s Multi-Vitamin Acne Treatment is an oil-free moisturizer that also helps to reduce breakouts. During the day, use an oil-free sunscreen like Neutrogena’s Healthy Defense or Coppertone Oil Free Faces Sunblock. Sunscreens can be used instead of moisturizer.

Which brings us to colour!

Youthful skin should never be completely covered. Even if you are having a serious breakout, the solution is not to slather yourself in foundation in an attempt to hide the blemishes. Using the wrong colour or type of concealing product will only draw attention to the things you’d like to hide.<

Find a foundation or concealer that matches your skin exactly. This is one place where you should not skimp on cost, however, most good foundations are expensive. Last year, L’Oréal came out with a drugstore product that makes it easier to match your skin tone without using up a week’s allowance. True Match comes in a wide range of warm, cool and neutral tones from light to dark. It also has companion concealer and powder. For more information on hiding blemishes, see my May 2005 column.

Use a light hand when applying colour makeup. A beginner shouldn’t be using every product in the beauty arsenal. Start with clear or light shades of mascara, barely blushing cheeks and clear, glossy lips.

In addition to Bonne Bell, which has been around since the 1930s, several companies now market makeup lines specifically for teens – Annabelle from Canada, Caboodles Cosmetics, Jane Cosmetics, N.Y.C., Rimmel from the United Kingdom, Tru and Wet N Wild. The Body Shop has reasonably priced products in flattering skin tones, Avon has the Mark line, in addition to some incredible bargains in their regular line,and Maybelline is known for its youthful image. In department-store lines, Clinique was the teen-friendly line that I started out with, and MAC is the cheapest of the high-end brands.

Fat pencils designed to give a quick swipe of colour are ideal. They’re usually sheer in texture and fool-proof to put on. Maybelline’s Cool Effects Shadow/Liner Pencil in Peach Daquiri will suit many eye colours. MAC’s Shadesticks stay on all day, even if you have very oily eyelids, and Avon’s Big Color Eye Pencils are regularly discounted. You can use gloss at this age and there are many products available that are designed to add shine to highlight features other than lips. Try Caboodles Go Glam Glitter Eye Gloss.

Maybelline has been the go-to company for mascara for decades. Great Lash is the best-selling mascara in the world, but their Lash Discovery mascara features a small wand that is great for beginners. Avon Waterproof Wash Off Mascara really does wash off with soap and water. It also goes on quite easily as it’s thinner than most mascaras. One coat darkens nicely.

You probably won’t need to wear blush often, but if you do, try to find a powder that goes on sheer in light tones of peach, pink or plum depending on your skin tone. Clinique makes a sheer cheek gel in several different shades and Avon’s Tint ‘N Go is in a push-up tube.

Bonne Bell’s Lip Smackers are widely available and come in a huge variety of flavours – including the one I bought religiously 30 years ago – Dr. Pepper. Other products to try: MAC Lip Glass, Maybelline Shiny-licious Lip Gloss; and Rimmel Star Dazzlers Lip Gloss.

When you’re ready to move on to more complicated looks, try to get a lesson. Makeovers are always free at Sephora and if you ask them to show you what they are doing every step of the way you’ll learn some great tips. Every Clinique location has one or two “All About Eyes” clinics every year and they will gladly demonstrate techniques. Be brave and experiment with colour.

Your teen years are your time to shine as you head into the wonderful world of makeup!

Last month I was in Paris performing a show with my team and I noticed that there were a lot of reds and blondes – as well as combinations of the two. All the designers were trying to come up with new styles for haircuts and colors. But many times, what is considered trendy doesn’t necessarily look good on everyone. So please make your choices and decisions carefully to prevent becoming a fashion victim. Take time to research how you can adapt the latest trends to your hair. Take pictures to your stylist and have a consultation before your actual hair appointment. Your cut or style will be a success, you will feel good about it when you walk out of the salon, and you will have a fashionable style that compliments your hair’s texture and your face structure.

Q: I have yet to find a hair cut that compliments my hair type. I have slightly wavy hair that is thick, and medium in texture with a great tendency to frizz. I want your opinion on the best length, style of cutting, etc., to minimize frizz. I’m not concerned with emphasizing curl.My goal is reducing volume, defining what waves I have and possibly eliminating frizz. Thanks very much for your help and time.

— Temira

Christo: Every texture is unique and pretty in its own way. You just need to have the right style. The most important step is to care for you hair before you go to your stylist. Start by using a deep conditioner like Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque once every two weeks. That alone will treat the frizziness and dryness. Then visit your stylist to see what the best possible styles are for you — short, medium or long — while considering the texture of the hair and the structure of the face. If you hair is as thick as you described it, definitely texturize the inner layers of the hair to reduce volume. It can be done with scissors, but do not use a razor if your hair is really curly. As far as length goes, your hair can be sexy and fun regardless of how long it is. The longer your hair is, the less the volume your hair will have. The last step after finishing the cut is to ask your stylist how to style hair and what styling tools you’ll need. For example, we use Bio Gel Mousse on wavy hair to style and Unruly Paste for the finishing.

Q: I have just learned to love my curly hair. One of the biggest things I learned is not to brush or use small combs, and to be careful about breaking my hair strands. Unfortunately, I don’t have a hairdresser who really knows about curly hair, and when I went to get my hair colored they combed thru it when it was dry and they really pulled on it. She said that was the only way to get the color thru it. Is that correct? Is there a better way to apply color? (I am coloring over gray”>.Suggestions please!

Christo: You are right not to brush dry curly hair or to use any fine-toothed combs. Yet finger combs have very wide teeth. To get the best possible color, the team at Christo Fifth Avenue uses the following techniques.Wet the hair down, condition it and use Deep Therapy Masque for 10 minutes without heat.Rinse it out, towel it dry and squeeze the water out.Apply color for 20 to 30 minutes, then shampoo out; reapply Botanical Rinse and Deep Therapy Masque for soft, shiny curls. The hair will be as healthy as it was before coloring it.

Q: I have very thick, curly, frizzy and puffy hair. I tried gel and mousse but it doesn’t work and it makes my hair ‘hard’ and even bigger. I am tired of wearing my hair in a pony tail. I just want my hair to be smaller and not so curly. Please tell me what products should Iuse to get rid of the puffiness. I really need your help. Sylvia

Christo: Let’s get you off to a good start. First, ask yourself if you’ve been treating your hair the right way. If not, please follow these instructions:
Deep condition every other week.Shampoo your hair no more than once a week.Condition with a conditioner like Curlisto Botanical Rinse at least every other dayMake sure your cut is right for your curls.Make sure the styling tools you’re using are right for your curls. If so, make sure you’re using them correctly. If your hair is very curly, it may have nothing to do with the way you’re styling it, but you can make your hair smoother by following these steps.

1. Use a conditioner every day.

2. Shampoo once a week.

3. Prepare wet hair with a leave-in conditioner like Curlisto.

4. Repair Styling Cream.

5. Mix a quarter-size styling lotion like Structura Lotion with a dime size of a gel like Control II, which has more hold. Apply to your hair section by section, with at least five sections.

6. Use your fingers to comb it through. When the hair is almost dry, diffuse it and finish with a pomade like Unruly Paste. Apply the paste to your fingertips and run your palm on top of your curls. Spray with a hairspray like Structura Spray to finish it.

Q: I have coarse, thick hair and no matter what I do and where I go, no one seems to be able to help me. I have had more than my share of ‘bad hair’ days. I can’t get my hair to do a thing except frizz, which makes me look like a bad perm. Can you recommend any help to me? — Sheri

Christo: Follow these simple step before you pay a visit to any salon.

• Use a deep conditioner every other week.
• Do not shampoo more than once a week.
• Use a lotion and a gel, applying a mixture of half an half.
• Apply the mixture to sections, starting at the bottom and going to the top. Diffuse it dry. Do not touch it while it’s drying. Use a dime-size dab of Finishing Pomade and smoth it out by twisting your hair into a ponytail. Your hair will feel soft and sleek.

Q: I am 16 years old, and I have a serious hair dilemma. I have A LOT of hair — possibly too much hair. It seems normal at the roots, but the ends are VERY dry. I wouldn’t say it’s exactly curly, it’s more wavy. I know you specialize on curly hair, but could you please help me learn how to tame my waves? They’re kind of looser at the top, but become S-shaped toward the bottom. I like my wavy hair, and I really don’t want to lose it. I just wish it was easier to handle. It’s driving me insane, so could you please help me? — Natasia

Christo: A mixture of hair types is very common. As a start, deep condition your hair once a week to eliminate the frizziness and dryness. As far as styling goes, use a styling lotion like Structura Lotion for wavier hair and Bio-Gel Mousse on less wavy hair. When you are diffusing your hair, scrunch your hair where the hair is less wavy, or pull on the hair where it’s wavier to match your texture.

Q: Is there a product that will keep moisture away from hair to prevent the frizzies? I start out great in the morning. But I live in an area where it rains a lot and as soon as humidity hits — frizz! I don’t even look like the same person sometimes! I get by sometimes by wearing a hat, but that is bad too because it flattens out the curls. — Linda

Christo: I would recommend one of our high-humidity gels, like Curlisto Control I or Control II, which stop your hair from frizzing. They also will provide you with great hold and strengthen your curls. They include ingredients such as hydrolyzed soy, protein, wheat protein, pathenol and more than 10 different botanical extracts. I also would recommend you use a hairspray like Structura Spray for even better hold and style.

Following is a list of herbs and natural ingredients featured in hair care products, particularly for curly, kinky or wavy hair. The list is derived from multicultural sources and is designed for all types of people with curly hair. An important thing to remember, should you try to create your own hair care products using herbs, is that most herbs are astringent, while many types of curly hair dry out easily. Herbs should be used with discretion (very small amounts”> or else irritation may result. ‘Protein-rich’ ingredients are good for many types of hair but counterproductive for hair that has been chemical relaxed. Finally, curly hair, especially kinky African-American hair types with a tight coil, is resistant to natural colorants — results will be subtle. Those with high percentages of gray should do strand tests, and this type of hair may also be highly resistant to natural colorants.

Natural Saponins (Suds”> Agave (Agave americana”>, Castille Soap (olive oil soap”>, Papaya Leaf (Carica papaya”>, Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis”>

Hair Softeners Burdock Root (Lappa officinalis”>, Castor oil (Ricinus communis”>, Chickweed (Cerastiu”> (Stellaria”> (Stellaria media m”>, Comfrey (Symphytum officinale”>, Honey, Hops (Humulus lupulus”>, Lime Flowers (Citrus aurantifolia”>, Linden Flowers (Tilia americana”>, Marshmallow root (Althaea officinalis”>, Mayonnaise, Oat straw (Avena, especially A. sativa”>, Wheat Protein, Wild Cherry Bark (Prunus”> (P. serotina”>, Yerba del Negro

Body and Shine Aloe Vera (Aloe vera”>, Castor Oil (Ricinus communis”>, Eggs, Hops (Humulus lupulus”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Mayonnaise, Oak (Quercus”>

Growth and Nutrients Algae, Dulse (Palmaria palmata”>, Horsetail (Equisetum arvense”>, Kelp (orders Laminariales and Fucales”>, Kola nut (Cola acuminata”>, Lanolin (adeps lanae”>, Nori (Porphyra”>, Oak (Quercus alba”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Sage (Salvia officinalis”>, Walnut leaves (Juglans cinerea”>

Setting Lotions, Gels, Curl Definition Acacia (Acacia”> or (Robinia Pseudacacia”>, Egg, Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum”>, Glycerine, Gum Arabic (A. Senegal”>, Gum tragacanth (Astragalus gummifer”>, Icelandic moss (Cetraria islandica”>, Irish Moss (Chondrus crispus”>, Lanolin (adeps lanae”>, Lemon (Citrus limon”>, Marshmallow root (Althaea officinalis”>, Orange blossom water (Citrus bigaradia”>, Vegetable Glycerin

Dandruff Birch (Betula lenta”>, Carrot (Daucus carota”>, Eucalyptus peppermint (Eucalyptus dives”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Sage (Salvia officinalis”>, Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia”>, Thyme (Thymus vulgaris”>, Willow Bark (Salix alba”>

Fragrance Citrus: Orange (Citrus aurantium”>, Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Jasmine (Jasminum officinale”>, Lime (Citrus aurantifolia”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Lemongrass (Cymbopogon martini”>, Orange: Neroli (Citrus bigaradia”> Petit Grain (Citrus aurantium”>, Palma rosa (Cymbopogon martini”>, Sandalwood (Santalum album”>

Essential Oils and Fixed Oils For Alopecia (Serious Hair Loss”> Borage (Borago officinalis”>, Calendula (Calendula officinalis”>, Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus”>, Clary Sage (Salvia clarea”>, Cypress (Cupressus “>, Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Palma Rosa (Cymbopogon martini”>, Peach Kernel (Prunus persica”>, Sesame Seed (Sesamum indicum”>

Scalp Irritation Aloe Vera (Aloe Vera; Barbados aloe”>, Calendula (Calendula officinalis”>, Comfrey (Symphytum officinale”>, Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis”>, Frankincense resin (genus Boswellia of the family Burseraceae”>, Myrrh resin (Commiphora myrra”>, Pine Tar (Pinus and especially P. palustris”>, Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia”>, Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana”>

Natural Oils, Waxes, Butter for Emollience, Softening, Shine Aloe (Aloe Vera; Barbados aloe”>, Avocado (Persea americana”>, Castor Oil (Ricinus communis”>, Cocoa Butter (Cocos nucifera”>, Hemp (Cannabis sativa”>, Mango (Mangifera indica”>, Neem (Azadirachta indica”>, Palm (Arecaceae”>, Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa”>, Walnut Oil (Juglans”>

Essential Oils/Fixed Oils For: Brittle Breaking Hair and Split Ends Birch (Betula lenta”>, Borage (Borago officinalis”>, Calendula (Calendula officinalis”>, Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus”>, Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile”>, Cocoa Butter (Cocos nucifera”>, Evening Primrose (Enothera biennis”>, Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Mango Butter (Mangifera indica”>, Parsley (Petroselinum crispum”>, Peach Kernel (Prunus persica”>, Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa”>, Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis

Essential Oils for Normal Healthy Hair Almond (Prunus dulcis”>, Borage (Borago officinalis”>, Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus”>, Evening Primrose (Enothera biennis”>, Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Lemon Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus citriodora”>, Parsley (Petroselinum crispum”>, Peach kernel (Prunus persica”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>

Essential Oils for Oily Hair Basil (Ocimum basilicum”>, Birch (Betula lenta”>, Borage seed (Borago officinalis”>, Cypress (Cupressus”>, Eucalyptus Lemon (Eucalyptus citriodora”>, Evening Primrose (Enothera biennis”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Peach Kernel (Prunus persica”>, Sage (Salvia officinalis”>, Sesame seed (Sesamum indicum”>, Yarrow (A. millefolium”>

Essential Oils for Dandruff Basil (Ocimum basilicum”>, Birch (Betula lenta”>, Cypress (Cupressus”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Lime (Citrus aurantifolia”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Thyme (Thymus vulgaris”>

Essential Oils and Fixed Oils for Dry Hair Avocado oil (Persea americana”>, Birch (Betula lenta”>, Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus”>, Cocoa Butter (Cocos nucifera”>, Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens”>, Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Parsley (Petroselinum crispum”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Sandalwood (Santalum album”>, Sun flower oil (Helianthus, especially H. annuus”>, Yarrow (A. millefolium”>

Scalp Stimulation Cayenne (Capsicum”>, Ginger (Zingiber officinale”>, Peppermint (Mentha piperita”>

Natural Hair Colorants Blonde Calendula (Calendula officinalis”>, Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile”>, Honey, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Mullein (Verbascum”>, Rhubarb (R. rhabarbarum”>

Natural Hair Colorants Auburn and Burnette Black Tea (Camellia sinensis”>, Catechu (Acacia catechu”>, Cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia; Cinnamomum z.”>, Clove (Syzygium aromaticum”>, Henna (Lawsonia inermis”>, Logwood (Haematoxylon campechianum”>, Tobacco (N. tabacum”>

Natural Hair Colorants: Red Alkanet Root (Alkanna tinctoria”>, Annatto Seed (Bixa orellana”>, Henna (Lawsonia inermis”>, Hibiscus (Hibiscum”>, Madder Root (Rubia tinctorum”>, Rose hip (Rosa canina”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Saffron (Crocus sativus”>

Blue/Blue/Grey Blackberry Juice (Rubus”>, Blueberry Juice (Vaccinium”>, Coffee (Coffea”>

Dark Brown and Black Henna (Lawsonia inermis”>, Hibiscus (Hibiscum”>, Madder Root (Rubia tinctorum”>, Quebracho (Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco”>, Rose hip (Rosa canina”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Saffron (Crocus sativus”>, Sage (Salvia officinalis”>, Sandalwood (Cymbopogon martini”>, Tea (Camellia sinensis”>, Tobacco (N. tabacum”>, Walnut (Juglans nigra”>

Colorants Used to Add to Color to Hair care Formulae Alkanet Root (Alkanna tinctoria”>, Annatto Seed (Bixa orellana”>, Madder Root (Rubia tinctorium”>, Vanilla Bean (V. planifolia”>

NaturallyCurly is celebrating its 15th Anniversary this year. To show you how far we’ve come, we’re highlighting a few of your favorite articles from the NaturallyCurly archives!

As we grow older, our hair gradually turns gray, losing its natural color. For some, this process begins as early as the 20s. Many women are not ready for such a big change. Some want to hold onto their natural hair color, while others choose to enhance gray or white hair. Like most dark fibers, brunette or black hair doesn’t show color as readily as blond or light brown; it is also resistant to accepting color and requires more color. Natural colors are stains; they don’t contain chemicals that enable drastic changes, so their coloring power, particularly on naturally dark hair, is subtle.

The complex hair shaft of kinky and curly hair requires more color and gray hair is very resistant. To top it off, hair grows 1/4-1/2” per month, making coloring hair a real challenge. Shown resistance, we have a tendency to reach for permanent color rather than gentle solutions—this can lead to damage, especially if relaxers or straighteners are also used. This article is written for those seeking natural ways to enrich graying hair. Botanical rinses work with existing color, providing subtle highlights, increased shine and youthful vibrancy without making permanent changes.

Red Hot Oil

Reddish highlights warm sallow skin and enliven dingy, gray hair. A rich red hue can be created from the roots of the herb alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria”>, extracted into oil. Red Hot Oil conditions dry hair and colors it simultaneously. Apply as a hot oil treatment.

1/3 cup alkanet root, cut and sifted

2/3 cup sweet almond, safflower or olive oil

Yield: two or more applications (depending on hair length”>

Shelf life: 1 year

Place alkanet root in sterile, dry jar with screw top. Fill jar with oil. Set in window. Steep 24 hours; swirl periodically. Warm 1/4-cup red oil; apply heated. Divide hair into four sections. Part hair 1/4” at a time and apply oil from roots to tip. Put on plastic cap; then wrap head in towel. Leave on 45 minutes, then

shampoo.

Flamin’ Red

This recipe features madder root (Rubia tinctorum”>, a relative of alkanet root, which was featured in the previous recipe. Flamin’ Red works well on medium or dark brown hair. As a progressive dye, the color intensifies with repeated use.

1 1/2 cups water

1/3 cup madder root

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Makes: approximately 12 ounces

Shelf Life: use within 24 hours

Boil water. Add madder root. Stir; cover; reduce heat to medium. Simmer 30 minutes. Add vinegar then simmer 30 more minutes. Reduce heat to low; steep 1/2 hour more. Strain. Cool. Apply using catch method (see sidebar”>.

Henna

One of the strongest hair dyes is henna (Lawsonia inermis”>. People have enjoyed henna since the civilizations of Ancient Egypt. Legend holds that both Cleopatra and Nefertiti has lovely red hair. Henna brings out reddish highlights in the most resistant hair, including graying hair. Henna is not recommended on hair that has been dyed recently with commercial dyes; a chemical reaction occurs, turning hair black. Henna is also not recommended for hair that is more than 50% gray. To use packaged henna, follow manufacturer’s directions. Enhance the packaged henna as follows.

Henna Hints

• Shampoo hair first
• Enhance red tones by using cognac, red wine, carrot juice, cranberry juice, hibiscus tea or rosehip tea in place of water
• Tint and scent: add vanilla extract for scent or any combination of ground allspice, cinnamon or cloves for enriched brown tones (Limit spices to a teaspoon. Avoid use on abraded scalp or on sensitive or allergic individuals”>.
• To minimize brassiness, use strong black coffee, rosemary, sage or black tea in place of the water
• For body: add flat beer or hops tea in place of water
• Add mayonnaise to quench dryness
• Attract moisture with yogurt, sour cream, honey or molasses
• Follow up with a hot oil treatment to counteract dryness

Rosemary (Rosmarimus officinalis”> and Sage (Salvia officinalis”> Rinse

This is an age-old formula for blending gray hair into darkly colored hair. It works on the same principle as tea or coffee—staining; facilitated by the concentration of tannins.

1 1/2-cups distilled water

1 teaspoon each dried rosemary and sage

Yield: approximately 12 ounces

Shelf life: 2 weeks

Boil water; add herbs. Cover; reduce heat to medium. Simmer 20 minutes. Reduce heat to low; simmer 20 minutes. Turn off heat; steep 1 hour. Strain. Apply using catch method.

Alternative: use 3 cups strong coffee or black tea. To prepare: brew 3 tablespoons loose Assam, Ceylon, Oolong tea or three Tetley tea bags in three cups boiled water. Cool. Apply using catch method.

Tobacco Herbal Rinse

Tobacco (Nicotianna spp.”> rinse is one of the most effective ways of quickly staining graying hair. This rinse adds golden, auburn tones.

1 1/2 cups distilled water

1/4 cup dried tobacco

2 tablespoons vinegar

Yield: Approximately 12 ounces

Shelf Life: 1 month, refrigerated

Boil water; add tobacco. Reduce heat to medium low; cover. Infuse 40 minutes. Remove from heat; add vinegar; steep 20 minutes. Strain. Apply using catch method.

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Herbal supplies

Bulk Henna and Herbs:

San Francisco Herb & Natural Food Co.

47444 Kato Road

Fremont, 94538

510.770.1215

info@herbspicetea.com

Packaged henna:

Health food stores and specialty markets such as Whole Foods and Sally’s Beauty Supply